summitchaserCJB

Ok. I don't know where he got that info but those pickets would have held anything. I know what sugary snow is- I've lived and skied in the PNW my whole life.

Good well maybe he shouldn't shoot down my shit when he doesn't know what he is talking about. I've rock climbed seriously for 6-7 years (and I mean trad leading not TR). Snow creek wall, dragontail, Squamish, damnation crack, Godzilla, Heart of the country, Princely ambitions, angel, Condomorphine addiction, doin the dishes (5.11d), Canary, ect, done a little climbing in Spain as well. I've guided a party up Baker, done Adams, Hood, Saint Helens, Soloed Sahale (quien sabre) , soloed the tooth-hemlock traverse, Mt Thomson, soloed all of GNS at Index, soloed classic crack (who hasn't) done the tooth in mixed conditions. My first ice lead was WI3 R (up from source lake, tied off ice screws)- not proud of that one- a fall would have been sketchy at best. gonna do Denali in 2011 and Rainier in June. N face of chair x 2. I'm probably missing a few but that is good for now.

"Talking out of YOUR ass might keep you from recognising the fact you could easily and safely protect all of Chair with a few bomber screws and slings. No pickets or pins required." Not everyone likes to put themselves into huge X or R rated fall scenarios. How do you protect the first pitch belay? Do you expect screws to hold in semi-consolidated alpine ice? I don't. I just think it is funny how his opinion matters more than mine when I have a good amount of experience. And another thing is- he was flat wrong about the pickets. Just because it is doable without pickets doesn't mean pickets are worthless. That was really my own point and it is fucking true. Ask anyone who actually did Chair this last week.

Gene- No offense but I think you are talking out of your ass. "I don't know where you would put a picket on chair right now. That thing is all sugary and wouldn't hold squat. There are good trees and ice to anchor to." I've climbed it twice in the last week and there were Bomber picket placements the whole way and pickets were the ONLY pro for much of the second pitch and the first pitch belay. This was true espesially Tuesday. So, unless you are talking about Wednesday or Thusday you see reality differently than most.

So what caliber? 38 is light but with not too much power. .40 has more power but is heavier. 357?

There is definitely some merit to that observation.

Yep that happens on that route.

Nope. I soloed it in December I think it was and lost a camp ice tool on the way down. Bummer. I even went back 4 days later and found nothing.

Dude I love the combo. Got my wheels turning...

Yes, I LOVE talking about gear. First I'd get some slings. Probably at least 5-8 standard size and a couple doubles. You also probably want another rope. The beal joker is nice if you want to use them as halfs/twins (if your current rope can be used as such). This is just for raps primarily but can be used to minimize rope drag and just increase safety overall. Obviously you'll want some more screws (maybe 5 more). Maybe someone else can mention what size because all my screws are old school (but good enough for WI2+). Might want to add a picket as well depending on the route. For instance the North face of Chair peak requires two pickets right now.

Find any ice tools?

Spring also means the alpine opens up.

Nice. I like that thing.

Everybody has covered their bases. Lworth, Index, Smith occasionally, Peshastin, Erie.

Does it matter? I just use a normal wiregate.

I vote for AT and T. Good reception on Baring, Chair, the Tooth, pretty good near Leavenworth.

oh....that's weird.

Not to be the grammar Nazi but it is popped not pooped. By the way, I live in Woodinville too.

Yep Yep. Adams/Hood/ or Baker are all good training climbs. For that matter even lesser climbs are such as Si in terms of cardiovascular fitness.

Got ya. I didn't want to bulk up my already bulky shaft and decided to stick with the status quo for the other tool.

I'm definitely not an authority on taping tools but I did it with the 228 Scotch tape. I also was confused by that. I think it means stretch it, length wise, which will decrease the width. You can stretch it quite a bit, which I found out, and was able to do two tools with one roll.

Eldiente- Good to know. There is some cross-state carryover but it depends on the state. California, for example, doesn't honor WA concealed permits from what I remember.

That's pretty crass.

Try pulling in the reigns with the paranoia. Chances are that you won't notice any change. The people who are legally allowed and permitted to carry aren't the ones you should worry about.