summitchaserCJB

NEPAL EVO x 1000.

Yep that was it. Dang. Gotta love/hate it.

Will do. We probably will end up doing something else soonish. I think we saw your tracks. We even followed them for a while near the summit. Didn't seem worth the risk considering I had no pro available and it was dark with a 30 foot runout.

Thanks for the info.

Price induced quality apparently.

Right on. Thats what I am looking for.

Ok so I take it June would be fine.

It isn't happening today. Todd stayed up all night last night.

It definitely adds a new element. I coined a new phrase- "alpine finish" (rather than alpine start). We're gonna go up again tomorrow to tag the summit. "To give anything less than your best is to sacrifice the gift." -Pre

What do you guys think? Is the peak XV suitable for Denali alone? In theory it seems like it but the price makes me wonder.

Trip: McClellan Butte - North Coulior Date: 2/2/2010 Trip Report: Todd and I headed up obscenely late to do McClellan Butte's North Coulior. We knew we'd be heading up into the darkness. So we started hiking about 3:15 p.m. from the TH. We got to snow after endless switchbacks up the mountain. We cramponed and ice tooled up at the base of the coulior in the midst of a plethora of avalanche debris. Going up the coulior consisted of crossing solid frozen snow, less solid avalanche debris and everything between. We ended up climbing some ice on the right side of the coulior for fun on our way up. We ended up at the last push before the summit at around 5:30 p.m just as the light disappeared. I made a dash for the summit, following steps kicked up there. The steps went nowhere and Todd was ready to head down to pick up his girlfriend in Seattle. So we abandoned the summit and headed down. The descent kinda sucks in icy conditions but that is part of the game. Todd and I had a nice discussion about hooded specters in the woods which helped us keep the pace up. I really wanted that summit so I'll have to go back. Gear Notes: For the summit: Pins, nuts, rope. Approach Notes: Follow the signs.

Haha we found your path to the summit. We had to turn around too because it was 6 in the evening and Todd had to get back.

So we can go back into society, get restless, and go back out again.

Nice. Well, sortof. Low snow years are a double edged sword.

Oh yes.

Ya I found mixed climbing pretty sketch. I ended up ditching the pons and axes for the last pitch and loved it. I'd take rock over mixed if I have the choice.

Good job guys.

hmm... Well probably 3,700 if I remember correctly.

"nobody ever asks "why run" do they?" You've never done a marathon then.

Trip: Mt Pilchuck - Standard Date: 1/31/2010 Trip Report: With the danger of eating my own words I wanted to share mainly the photos of my bro's and my trip up Pilchuck as a training hike for Rainier and other climbs. We thought we might scurry up some alternative route but we couldn't see anything due to the fog and snow. The trail is well stomped out but that could change because snow was falling the whole time. Gear Notes: Bring at least rain gear unlike some people up there in pure cotton.

I agree Mark. That doesn't make sense. All the fat WA ice I've seen (not that much to tell you the truth- I'm relatively new to ice but have seen plenty of rock) was thick, fat water ice. I've seen some less than favorable ice but it always was covered with snow.

{:>)

Forgive me if I am mistaken, but fat usually means very protectable. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule. And, with the exception of mixed climbing (using trad gear/pitons), the inverse is true (thin= usually bad ice pro). But really from my perspective Todd and I were up there like a week ago and everything was ready to go.

I'd rather just not have to worry about the potential to drop an ax.

Lame...just kidding that looked cool.