Syndicate

I cut my originals out and put FS Minis on them. Makes it easy to clip in the rope when you are sketched placing a screw.

They are cheap and you can beat them into snowy/icy/muddy cracks. Plus they are light. I have a set of DMM torque nuts that are unquestionably the best hexes on the market. Aside from the extendable sling, the shape is awesome and they are well sized. The disadvantage of slung hexes vs stiff things like wired nuts or cams is that they are difficult to set at arm's length. However, I set most of my passive pro at chest height, so no big deal. The extendable sling is great and just the right length. I have never clipped a draw into these hexes

I can vouch for the packs being awesome. I have a '00 spectra 4500 that is still in great shape after countless climbing days. Just as an indication of how tough they are, I frequently put my crampons in the shovel pouch for roadside gigs (ie N. face Athabasca, etc) and haven't had any trouble. In 10 years. I use it for everything, hauling loads into camp and stripping it down for the summit. What the OP doesn't mention is that the packs are very modular. Everything is removable - side pockets, shovel pocket, pack lid, frame, hip belt until you are left with an ultra light, tough spectra sack. I then cinch in the sides and the bottom so it is in the shape of a daypack and I'm set for whatever. Where this really shines is winter climbing, where you expect to be out for the summit for longer than the day is. Hot down below and the pack is ultralight but huge enough for a parka. Sun goes down and the heavy parka comes on and the pack easily swaps down to the right size, all while being featherlight and tough I just can't say enough good things about these bags. Finally, since the comparison will undoubtedly come up - my climbing partner has a cilogear 60L. The shapes are different, the cilogear is a bit "boxier" and has a different type of fabric. The Kelty spectra is a heavier weight (this is by no means a slight against Cilo), but really this is an apples to apples comparison. I prefer my Cloud to the Cilo, and for 350 bucks it is a steal. I paid nearly 800 for mine and it was worth every penny. Anyone with further questions on the comparison is welcome to ask me via PM and I will do my best. Good luck with the sale.

Most has already been mentioned, but I will offer my experience: If you do choose liquid fuel, filter it into some new containers after you get it from the air service. You will be surprised at the amount of crap that comes out from frozen, unfiltered fuel. No reason not to do this as those containers are leaky and awkward anyway. Bring the tarp and dig a good pit. The stove can be inset another foot into the ground in a 12x12 hole whether in a cook tarp area or in a vestibule. This same 12x12 hole also doubles as a dressing area for the tent. It's been mentioned, but start the stove outside. You could also consider bringing a few small jetboil style canisters and a torch attachment to preheat the stove on really crappy days. The small canisters are easy to keep in the sleeping bag/parka/gear loft in the tent to keep warm. Just crack the tent door for a sec to light it, the flame is directional so the margin of safety as you hold it to preheat the stove is high. I own the Snow Peak one and although is is relatively heavy, it sure beats having to get up and get dressed to start the stupid stove. Finally, you could build a hanging stove setup like this one: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?type=vote_comments&object_id=483666&page=1#messages Semi useful, personally I would find this setup annoying as you would need to ladle the water in and out, but for cooking it would be fine. Not so great for snow melting. However, I have not tried it, it is possible that it is great.

iirc, 2003 was the last year this gen of packs was produced. So at least 7 years old. I still have the 60L version of this bag from 2002. They are incredibly tough and very comfortable. I carried 80+lbs in mine doing geological field work hauling rock samples, with sub 40lb loads it is barely there.

The article mentions a project from Will Gadd called "second choice". A quick google search turned up nothing - does anyone have a link for that climb? To me, conditions seem similar to the Terminator wall in Canada, but it's tough to tell from the photos supplied. In the first photo I spy more than a few rest stops. I will agree that the traverse would be pretty dicey with bad pro leading to swinging falls, but I'm not sure the climbing is hard enough to merit the grade

I agree they are nice, but for the life of me, I don't understand why more people aren't adopting regulated LED technology. Seems like a no-brainer to me, and yet on a consumer level people are not buying into it. This is a good lamp in that they made it able to take lithiums and rechargeables, and of course the button design is much better

Excellent to hear it is a good piece Dane, mine is en route from Arc right now. I haven't seen one in person yet, but I am excited that the softshell sections vent as well as you say - very neat bit of kit. Not a negative I'd say, as I will throw the MX on at belays at the minimum. Here's to hoping the hood fits nicely

I only wash my MX once a season, and it gets treatment with Grangers - they make one for softshells and Arcteryx reccomends it. Spray it on, throw it in the wash and dry with HEAT. Partway thru the season if you notice the shoulders soaking (esp where packstrap abrades it) try wetting it down and tossing it in the dryer for 40 minutes, that does it for mine. I wear my MX at least 80 days a year and this works well, usually takes a couple trips to the dryer.

I think he means having to physically hold the pen in the water and stir is a hassle I recommend a field-maintainable ceramic filter where you can easily rub the silt off. Alternatively, MSR makes one you can backflush and is very light called the Hyperflow. Bear in mind that smaller pumps = more pumping. If you are making water for 3+ people grab a good, solid filter like the Katadyn Pocket. Easy to maintain and clean and completely bulletproof (because the extra grams are worth your time if you get sick). The added weight isn't that significant compared to an easy to pump/clean filter that shoots water out fast.

Gadd has a short post on these tools on his blog: http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2009/11/first-blood-first-ice.html

The reactor is a bad CO source, according to tests on backpackinglight.com. Not an issue for most backpackers, but for a climber where it will be used in a tent this is certainly a concern. Obviously you will ventilate anyway, but there is no reason to expose yourself more than necessary. I own a PCS and use it year round boiling water and melting snow. The fry pan is extremely difficult to use, but with a LOT of care you can make pancakes. Just remember that this thing is really only good for heating water or making pasta. The hanging system works perfectly and I have never had a spill with it. It holds the pot on by nature of it's design, so even if it gets bumped or the wind shakes it around a bit, no trouble. The hanging setup also supports the larger GCS pot, which I use for snow melting. I have operated my Jetboil successfully in -36 centigrade in my tent using the hanging kit. The heat from the stove keeps the canister warm. Your other option if you are a winter climber is the MSR Windpro, which you could use in your vestibule if you wanted. I own one but much prefer using the jetboil.

I have a phantom 15 and it's a great bag. In my experience it sleeps right to it's rating, and much below if you suck it up. The design of the bag is good, and the angled footbox is a nice touch. The little watch pouch is a good design with velcro and not a zipper.

Check out the Exped Polaris. Absolutely awesome tent, and it does have bug netting. Completely bomber, and easy to set up even in a storm. Expensive as all hell, but you get what you pay for I use mine in winter and in summer. Obviously it's hotter than an all-mesh tent, but it's tolerable even in 30 Celsius heat, which I experienced on Robson this past summer (can you believe it?)

Has anyone used these? They seem like a good option, but there is no info on them out there. I have used express, 360's and laser sonics before, but these interest me the most.