Dhamma

thanks a lot for answering my question man i appreciate it. i was wishing i had a synthetic bag when i had a soggy cold bag up there. im considering ebaying it

i was cold when i went to bed so i had all that stuff on, but then i got too hot when i was asleep apparently

Question: What do you usually wear when sleeping in a sleeping bag in cold temperatures at altitude? Bivyd in a lightening/rain storm at 10,300ft, I wore capilene 3 longsleeve shirt and pants and a north face denali jacket and i completely soaked my 15 degree down bag in sweat-rendering it soggy and heat-sucking. It was probably below freezing with the windchill outside

Just got one... http://www.buzzillions.com/dz_68013_acr_terrafix_406_gps_i_o_plb_reviews

yeah my volant fits over the arcteryx shell, not vice versa, so i apparently got the sizing right. can the volant block the snow or rain from seeping through though?

really enjoyed the pictures man. we were up there too, but didn't summit. going back in 3 weeks

i think i may have overestimated the weight of the pack. it was probably more like 45-50. for sure when i loaded up his shit to it was 60

I think we did bring too much gear, and we were talking about ways to reduce weight on the drive home. I told him about diamox, and I told him to go to the doc before we went out again together. I think you guys are right, and I feel the same way, I think we should have descended when he couldn't climb and more, and camped at lower elevation, and then re-evaluated in the morning. Thanks for the advice. me looking like a skeleton after doing all this shit at night

He had what he described as a mild headache when we first arrived at the parking lot at around 7000 feet.

Yes, that's what I meant. I didn't want to separate, but he was on the verge of panic and I was worried he'd do something stupid like wander off if I didn't start him going.

lol. Retards

I had to self-rescue my buddy from Shasta today. Thankfully I was successful in getting him and his gear down the mountain without requiring any rescue assistance. Being new to the sport/hobby/diversion I have a few questions on the decisions I made, and am asking for some feedback and constructive criticism from the experts. We were planning a 2 day Ascent up avalanche gulch to the summit after camping in the parking lot at Bunny Flat (With a high camp at Helen lake), but barely made it to Helen lake today-and wouldn't have even gotten that far if I hadn't taken on more then my share of the work. My partner had been fighting a mild headache all the way up to 9500 feet (right before Helen Lake) when he started sitting down and saying he couldn't go on. He was complaining of knee pain, and I assumed it was some kind of strain instead of AMS (which he was reporting mild symptoms of earlier) so I encouraged him to suck it up till we got to camp. After trying to get him going about 3 times, I climbed up to camp, dropped my 60lb pack, grabbed my Ice axe, glissaded down to him, shouldered his 60 lb pack up to the top so he could try to climb with no pack- which he did-- very slowly. We didn't get to camp till almost dark and I had to do everything myself- pitch the tent, go find snow to boil for water, and make food. I had him go inside the tent and get warm in his sleeping bag. Mind you, I was tired after the climb, so doing all this was pretty draining. I sat up alone on a rock after dark boiling snow so we could both stay hydrated, made him food, and got him in his bag. We were the last team into camp and our alpine start (which he decided to pass on) was supposed to be at 2 or 3am. I boiled 10 liters and then went to bed. We both stayed wide awake the entire night. Winds kicked up on the exposed camp-- blowing 40mph consistently with gusts up to 60. Windchill outside was probably around zero. He was still not doing too well. I have never seen weather like this in my life it was truly awe inspiring and quite fearsome. When the sun eventually came up I awoke to him rolling on the ground, clutching his head, saying he couldn't' take it anymore, and begging me to help him. I raced him up and dressed, and sent him on his way down with a super light pack--leaving a TON of shit at camp that I had to pack up first. After packing the heaviest load I've ever carried in the Bora, we eventually made our way down and he started feeling better. Facts: He had summitted before, I have not. He has suffered severe AMS before, I have not. We were both SUPER hydrated We were both munching gu/sport beans/etc We were taking a slow and steady pace We were layering appropriately We both live at sea level I know the best cure for AMS is descending, but my rationale was, if i could get him up to camp and put some fluids in him and let him get warm and sleep, he might acclimatize and feel better. I know a conflicting school of thought is to descend when symptoms start and bivy at lower altitude. I'm wondering if I shouldn't have carried his pack for him the final several hundred feet up to camp, and instead made him turn around under his own power to lower altitude. Interested in hearing opinions. Thanks. FYI, this has nothing to do with my other post on PLB's. I would clearly not think of activating one on a non-seriously life-threatening situation such as this.

http://www.acrelectronics.com/faqs/spotvs.aspx

i saw someone talking on a phone up on shasta today, i turned on my iphone and tried to get a signal--nothing. leave it in the car

2 biners to belay? any pics of this??

these guys are outstanding. i snapped the tip of my trailshock pole and the guy in the warranty department mailed me out a new replacement piece for free. Because of how i was taken care of I am willing to throw down $$$$ on one of their bibler tents. if only other companies took a page from their book!

got the helmet. so do you guys bring any pickets or deadmen for staking out the tent or route flags? <-newb

I think the rope looks like an "Edelweiss Discover 8mm x 30m Super Dry Twin Rope" Correct! Edelweiss Discover 8mm x 30m Super Dry Twin Rope. We're using it as a single for glacier travel and to climb moderate snow slopes (Gannett Peak in WY). this is the exact rope i just bought.

I guess it was my misinterpretation. The guy way sayingthat a 70m rope was too long for two guys, and you should cut it in half by coiling it up on each guy. I took it to mean you need a shorter rope and I thought, well shit, why dont' i just get a smaller rope. REI had a 8mm dry rope 30 meter that said alpine on it, i thought it sounded like the ticket. I'm still not through freedom of the hills yet--need to keep reading. thanks for the advice!

thanks

hahah. i love it. sounds like you guys have done this before

sorry man. may the degenerate scumbags who stole it get caught and you get your stuff back

<-Newb A few of my friends who have sumitted via the avalanche gulch route in the summer have not roped up and said it is unnecessary. Both of these characters are not experienced climbers, so I figured I'd ask here. Is it a good idea to rope up? I'm thinking of doing it just to practice for Rainier (which is a goal of mine next year). Thoughts?

i just got an 8mm rope and tried using a 6mm prusik and it doesn't work that well just messing around at home--do i need to go to a 5mm?

thanks man