mzvarner

how well does it hold up on the windy summit of rainer. i see that as being the gnarliest thing i do for a while, before stepping up to canada or alaska.

thats funny you mention the DAS its what i have now, the only bummer is that it does not pack down, but you do make a good point with everything getting wet. So, again, thanks dane.

im having a hard time figureing out a good one. I think im probably going to stick with down, seems warmer to me and obviously more compressable. Im looking to have one that will work for a variety of elevations ( i mean up Raineir too). ideas?

Thanks again

thanks dane. i have used the asolo afs and they are a double. they only times i have used them are on rather dry climbs where they was no snow or ice to get down inside them. thats what makes me think its my feet sweating. I wonder if it might be because im wearing to much on my feat making them over heat. im also looking into the batura's right now any advice on them, or anything similar. it seems that my feet fit well with La Sportiva so im trying to stay in that family.

my main thing is i sweat a lot and im using a single boot, so i want to make sure its dry and not going to freezr solid overnight. so what are some ways to deal with that. can i just shove a nalgene with hot water in it?

What are peoples ideas on vapor barriers/ neoprene. Im looking into a way to keep my boots dry, obviously, my feet are like water fountains. pros, cons, and links to good brands.

Never been but want to go

My goal is to bcome certified in both rock and alpine disiplines from AMGA. I Am looking for a partner that wants to get out and climb/train for these courses. I have loftyt goals and am highly motivated. If He/She is wanting to do this course as well then its even better. I live in spokane, have no problem getting to leavenworth, wash. pass, raineir, etc. I have been climbing for two years. Have taken courses in basic mountainering (havent done much tho unfortunately), crevase rescue, just took rock rescue, and may be taking the SPI course in october. I leade mid 11;s on sport, still new to trad, but up to 8/9. let me know.

Taking a rock rescue coursee sat/sun but have friday off, and want to crag at castle rock or something. can meet there early. pm me

Need partner for outerspace and maybe orbit let me know

im thinking of making attempt number two in a few weeks. Any one know if its ok on the upper section or if its pretty nasty? thanks

Looking for betta. going to try for skyladder. if its still in season. are screws needed. how many and are screamers important to have on them

I am wanting to try to link up orbit and outer space. I havent climbed either, its just a goal this season.

Im looking at going to index next week. Never been. Im trying to find a few routes there that would help me get ready for snow creek wall. I know there are problems with the lower wall right now, but are people still allowed to climb there. Im thinking the Great northen slab area.thanks

Trip: Washington Pass - Prime rib and south arete Date: 7/26/2009 Trip Report: At last minute Jess calls me and says his plans for Shuksin fell thru and wanted to know what I had planned. I had been wanting go see Prime Rib and finally check out the Liberty Group. Rolled up to PR around noon on saturday. We made good time catching and passing a party of two and a party of three on the fourth pitch in abou tan hour and a half. Weather began rolling in so the race was on. Lightnig was rolling all over to the west and rain was every where. We waited, it stopped, we continued. "Summited"in about 4.5 hours, then decided to try some simul-raps off. They are rad and fast. Did the whole route car to car in roughly six hours. Camped at Blue lakes, got up at 5, on the trail by 6. 1.5-2 hours later we were at the base of SEWS. We protected the first and second pitch then decided it was easyier and faster to just simul climb. Took in some coils and carried on. The slab with the bolt was cool, then crossed over the SW couloir to the summit and saw a goat, he freaked and ran down the couloir. we then simul climbed down and did three simul raps and went home. Weather was great over all. Amazing climbing. It was easy but we put on some good miles on the rock and saw some awsome veiws from washington pass. Gear Notes: Prime rib Bring a mix of exdendable draws and normal "sport" draws. Guide book says total of 15. I think 20 works well for linking Pitches. Stash a few PBR's in the river by the turn off so the are nice and cold when you get down. SEWS Small rack if. single set of nusts and cams to 3. We did a different start on accident, so in all honestly we only needed to protect the first pitch becasue of that. if you do it right, then leave tha rack at the care and simul the whole thing. Approach Notes: Prime Rib Short and steep. Its kind of like skiing when coming down with all the loose rock. SEWS A little longer gets steep and i hate the mosquitos. But its all worth it. The avi debri was pretty cool to. those pack some power.

I have this sunday monday and tuesday off. I am thinking i want to do some link ups in the area. In mazama im wanting to start with prime rib as a "warm up" then climb restless natives. Right there is 21 pitches. The next day go to the liberty group and climb the becky route then link it with the south arete. My only "requirment" is you can lead any of these pitches, as im not that burly to climb some 30 pitches. I have not been to that area before but have heard lots of good things about all these routes.

cant make up my mind. how is furh finger looking, along with the ingraham. thanks

Any beta, words of advice, etc.

Heading back up in two weeks. Looking for beta. Im thinking of going up Cadaver gap then up ingraham. Any words of addvice. I want a more direct route then the DC. I hate wasteing time on switch backs.

Lol i love the potential to kinetic energy. And yeah ill rey to post it up for you

Lol i love the potential to kinetic energy. And yeah ill rey to post it up for you

Any body climb it lately? if so how is it, and any beta i should know

where do you guys go for weather forecasts? Is there a different site for Raineir and the other valcanos, alpine lakes, etc.

sweeeeet... didi you reserve permits or do the "loto" thing.