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Alewarrior

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Everything posted by Alewarrior

  1. All those folks in the chute is nuts. Fucking nuts....
  2. Nice photos. I wish I could have seen the sledding. Hell I wish I could have done the sledding. Maybe next time.
  3. Nice pict. I am planning to do leth. soon here. Love the exposure on the edge to the summit.
  4. I must admit I did it because I was roped up with 2 other guys. I knew it was there, I knew What i was in for, and I gave it some thought all the way up the old chute. But but in the end I said "Fuck it. I came this far. What the hell" I am truly glad I did it and will never hesitate to traverse it again. If in trouble, yell "Falling" hurl yourself off the north ridge, the lead will jump off the south ridge and then you can figure it out from there.
  5. Old chute is doable. Be ready for a pretty skinny exposed ridge when you top out on the chute. About 50 yards, then it widends out and you can breath easy again. On the way down there is a chute that leads to the old chute proper if you dont want to brave the knife edge again. right before it gets thin again. Come to think of it you could ascend that chute to avoid the ridge alltogether but you expose yourself to rock/ice fall for a bit. you decide.Go for it.
  6. I am glad you made it. I now hope your friend has not lost his nerve. I agree with Ivans comment. French can be hard to perfect, It burns more energy, both in body and mind. Nevermind the ever present danger of crampon tears in your gators, causing a trip and slide. One can never underestimate the value of staying hydrated and eating a LOT. Even when completly not hungry. You must forse yourself to eat to keep up with absorbation rates from your digestive tract, and not fall behind in that respect. A TON of calories are burned climbing, and you must respect that effect on your body. Just my thoughts. Again I am glad to hear it went well for you and i truly hope your buddy takes a lesson well learned and keeps climbing.
  7. I am really sorry to hear this. My prayers to the family. Stay strong.
  8. Looks cold and windy up there. God I wish I lived in Oregon. Speaking of cold It's -10 here right now. -25 wind chill. I am hardend to it now though. nice pictures, see you all out there this spring.
  9. When I was on the summit of a Hood last spring, (My first climb) I thought that a Joint would be nice. Then I thought about what it will take to get off the summit. Never mind the rest of the mountain. I went up the old chute, and decended the chute just before the summit ridge gets skinny, any one know what im talking about? Its was super steep and Icy, Good cramponing, but still I think I needed all my wits to decend the old chute. And the fact that a huge chunk of ice fell down that chute, and rolled all the way to crater rocks fumroles 10 min. after we got off that headwall I was glad I did not burn one. Just my experance here.
  10. I like the photo of the fella standing on the Hot Rocks. It is amazing how in a photo It looks like the Old Chute is not very steep at all. Having Been Up the old chute and Across the summit ridge last spring, I know it is Pretty steep, and the ridge is "Bracing". Nice photos, Thanks Ivan.
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