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jrex

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Everything posted by jrex

  1. Trip: Prusik Peak, Alpine Lakes - West Ridge Date: 7/2/2011 Trip Report: Left Ptown and headed to Leavenworth on Wednesday around noon, arrived at 5ish. Camped and hit the ranger station at 7:40am, got permits for 2 nights and cruised towards the Colchuck Lake area. Rumor has it these things are hard to come by especially 4th of July weekend I think we lucked out. Hiked in and headed up Aasgard Pass. 2 skiers at the top mentioned we should run up the backside of Dragontail since we were so close so we headed up. Summit around 3pm and then headed towards Prusik. We camped a few ridges over and you could see the peak. Woke up around 7 ate some breakfast, drank some coffee then left for a Prusik. Staying high and traversing the snow seemed way easier than going down by all the lakes and having to go back up. I think it was the way to go because we were at the climb in no time. It was really windy and the sun was almost on the rock so we kicked back and relaxed for about 30 mins. The route finding and climbing were pure pleasure. The slab crux had nice exposure. At the summit pyramid I decided to take the crack straight up to the summit as opposed to the guide book saying go right to a flake. Killer day. Rapped off summit down 3 rap stations when we found the 4th frozen in water ice we opted to down climb the steep snow. Don't forget to bring your boots on the climb. Conditions were perfect, kicking steps was easy and except for one short fall and self arrest everything was sweet. We got back to camp to a goat and kid hanging out with our stuff, the only climbers we saw all day. Hiked down the pass and made camp by 7. I stashed beers at the lake that we pounded in triumph. Hiked out the next morning at a chill pace stopping to take a dip in the creek. Subjected 10-15 hikers to my ass swimming around the cool waters. Headed back to Portland to catch Hempfest....Good 4th of July.... Gear Notes: Hexes and nuts to 3"inches did most of the work. I used a few cams but could have left them at home. Approach Notes: Don't carry a bunch of heavy shit....it's steep.
  2. I have loaded pics in the past but for some reason I cant find it in the photo gallery. I see all the other pics i uploaded but can't find how to add more
  3. My problem is getting pictures in to that drop down menu...You have to upload from your computer first??? Where do you do that?
  4. I think someone forgot to zip up a pack and lost some gear descending the south face of Adams....I found your water bottle, dropped it and now it is gone...Then I found a very expensive gizmo and if it's yours contact me and I will get it back to you. Josh 503-933-4534
  5. I think someone forgot to zip up a pack and lost some gear descending the south face of Adams....I found your water bottle, dropped it and now it is gone...Then I found a very expensive gizmo and if it's yours contact me and I will get it back to you. Josh 503-933-4534
  6. This was one of those questions I knew the answer to but asked anyway...It's really just a matter of climb with skiers when I want to ski. Heading up to Adams tonight to ski and looks like I will be boot'n up Rainier with my other buddy next week. Thanks for keeping my head on my shoulders or better yet ass out of a hole in the ground...
  7. Next week when the weather looks best my buddy and I plan on climbing the Fuhrer Thumb and I want to descend the finger. Last year when we climbed Rainer I vowed to never posthole down that mountain again. The question, is it irresponsible, bad form, to skin, climb up with a partner then wish them well on there descent walking while I bomb the finger??? Any beta on route conditions would be great as well....Thanks
  8. Trip: Coethedral..the dirty dirty - Gothic Rocks Date: 6/9/2011 Trip Report: We had to return a keg to Fearless Brewing and thought might as well hit up Coethedral and see if the snow has melted off....It has not. A large tree blocks the road at 1.2 miles from the trail head then snow for most of the hike in. Once your there the climbing is dirty loose and sweet. Huge wall with tons of bolts...bring a helmet and brass balls. I don't know if i am still not supposed to post directions and route info but if you want it, I do have the guide and climbmax is going Out of Biz so you can't get it there anymore. Let me know and I will send you the beta Gear Notes: Quick draws and slings....lots of them...Some routes have over 30 bolts Approach Notes: walk
  9. Climbed Coethedral Wednesday....Large tree blocks road 1.2 miles from trail head and snow is 1-2 feet deep for some sections of the hike. Once your there it is good to go...We spent time cleaning moss off Gothic Rocks and Coecoenut Bridge. This place needs lots of work. Once you get used to the fact rocks are going to come out and dirt is going to get in your eyes, ears, and mouth it is a hell of a time.
  10. We had a great time climbing at Bulo this weekend...most of the snow has melted off but some trees are blocking the last mile of road. If anyone is planning a trip out that way cut bring a saw and do a little lumber jacking ehh?
  11. Looks like it scared the sh*t out of you while in the crevasse. The shot you took looking down speaks a thousand words. Looks like a sweet climb...
  12. Trip: Smith Rocks - Snake Wall and other stuff Date: 2/6/2011 Trip Report: A weekend at Smith is a weekend well spent. . . .
  13. 20+ feet, I climbed around the rim to the west then zoomed in to avoid the ground in the shot. Nice effect, almost like I was standing on a big azz cornice:)
  14. 20+ feet, I climbed around the rim to the west then zoomed in to avoid the ground in the shot. Nice effect, almost like I was standing on a big azz cornice:)
  15. The new circuit is sic and the atmosphere is chill...
  16. Why wait till June? If there is a good weather window on hood lets go. My first Hood summit was in Feb. and it was sweet, then in the summer it was crowded, scary, and not as purdy:)
  17. Thanks for the Hood spring pass tip. I mentioned ski crampons because while me and a couple other people were slipping and sliding on some icy sections 2 dudes with pons smiled and waved as they blasted past. 2 hours later they were on the summit while we where a 1000 feet below. F'n gear can't get enough of it.
  18. I am planning on getting a spring pass to Meadows. I am totally hooked on skiing. I summited Mt. Rainer last spring and on the way down watched skier after skier cruise by while I post holed all the way back to the car....I said to myself then "I will learn to do that" Now I am on my way. Thanks for the advice
  19. Trip: Mt. St. Helens Summit - Winter Route Date: 1/4/2011 Trip Report: A couple weeks ago I posted a trip where I made it to 6200 on Helens only to feel like I was in over my head...I hit the slopes a few times to polish my technique and build some confidence and Sunday went for it. Snow conditions were full spectrum, everything from deep powder to hard ice. I am just glad I lived to tell the tale. Not bad for my second month of skiing. I can't wait to figure out how to connect my turns better... Gear Notes: AT setup, next time get some ski crampons Approach Notes: Go up
  20. Trip: Mt. St. Helens - Winter Route Date: 12/19/2010 Trip Report: I bought a used AT setup and decided to take up skiing this year. I have been 5 or 6 times in the last 4 years, the length of time I have lived in the PNW. After a few test runs on Hood to learn how to turn and climb my friend suggested we do a tour up St Helens. This was my first real ski trip and the conditions were epic. Time to develop the skills so I can ski off the top... To the dude that just sold the K2 Mt Bakers on craigslist, thank you for hooking me up, the set up is sick Approach Notes: Dont pass the f'in right hand turn right off the rip and waste 30 minutes screwing around on a sled neck trail.
  21. Last Thursday we spent 9 hours post holing up to Illumination Rock only to find tons of powder and zero ice, the only part of the climb that was some what enjoyable was the sunrise. If you want a learning experience then go for it if you have a weather window, just don't expect to summit. Oh and bring skis, board, sleigh, husky team...
  22. Whats up Patarero, I have been wanting to climb the SE face of Beacon and some of the other goodies but haven't been able to. If you need a partner I climb up to 5.10 sport and have cleaned plenty of mixed routes I just don't have any trad gear...Let me know if you want to hit it up..Me, 31 dude climbing on and off a few years and live in portland. Josh 503-933-4534
  23. I want to spend sometime on Beacon but only have sport gear, I can lead sport to 5.10+ and have been spending some quality time down at Smith but want to explore new territory. I can climb week days if anyone is ready to get at it. I live in Portland so let me know. Josh
  24. jrex

    Winter Camping

    Thanks for the info guys. Hopefully it keeps dumping up high and we get the chance.
  25. jrex

    Winter Camping

    Hey Climbers, My brother (34) and nephew (11) are coming into town around Thanksgiving and they want to build a snow cave. If conditions are good maybe sleep in it. My question is where could we go that might give us the best chance at building one that is close to our vehicle? I am open to areas around Hood or Adams. I plan on going up before hand to scope the area out but im not sure where to start. A second question would be, is this a bad idea? Dangerous to newbies? Thanks in advance..
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