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AlpinWeiss

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Everything posted by AlpinWeiss

  1. Think we ran into you guys on the way up. We found the camera on the approach to camp. I'll send you a PM with contact info.
  2. Didn't find any Trangos on the way in . Definitely don't regret the approach shoes - wouldn't have been worth bringing the boots for a short easy ice step and the approach shoes dry quickly enough. If I did it again I'd either bivy on the summit or carry-over. The descent back to the Goode Glacier is really long.
  3. Trip: Mt. Goode - Northeast Buttress Date: 7/4/2009 Trip Report: Thought I'd finally post a Trip Report up here rather than just reading them: Last year Ty and I talked about Mt. Goode, but I decided I wanted to watch things blow up in the sky over Seattle instead. This year we were both on-board for the arduous trek in to my second nine-thousander which can’t be seen from any road (Mt. Logan being the other). Goode and Storm King: We got an alpine start from Seattle on Friday and started hiking down the PCT from Bridge Creek trailhead. A quick 9 miles and almost 2,000 feet of elevation lost took us to the North Fork of Bridge Creek (3hrs). We hiked up the North Fork to about 1.5 miles past Grizzly Creek (Grizzly Creek Camp is partially washed out and the trail is brushy past there). We forded the North Fork without any problems and ascended a snow slope to the approach slabs. Easy but exposed climbing up slabs lead up to header/alder slopes and into a bivvy site at 5100’. The site was nice, but infested with mosquitoes (as all of the North Fork seemed to be). Fording the North Fork of Bridge Creek: Another alpine start (4am wakeup) started us up more slabs and onto the Goode Glacier. Navigating some crevasse issues and climbing some glacier ice in aluminum crampons on sneakers (exciting) we got to the base of the NE buttress. We soloed the first pitch to the buttress crest (4th / easy 5th) and not knowing what was around the corner roped up. We ended up simul-soloing many, many pitches of 3rd and 4th class (~1000+ ft). As the buttress sharpened we started putting in some gear and simuling up easy 5th class on the wonderfully exposed buttress. The climbing here is truly excellent; very similar in style to the West Ridge of Forbidden, but A LOT more of it. Following the beta we moved right off of the buttress and into the “Black Amphitheatre.” This was supposedly the crux of the climbing (5.4) but I didn’t notice it getting any harder or easier. From the large grassy ledge we took the right arête which had some of the best climbing on the route. It’s hard to go wrong climbing on the buttress as there are many different options all of which are easy – we opted mostly to stay on the arête proper for purely aesthetic reasons. We simuled the entire route never feeling the need to pitch anything out – it’s very consistent in grade throughout (except the easier 3rd/4th sections). Getting to the Buttress: The "crux" Fantastic Ridge Climbing: I accidentally lead up to a false summit so we downclimbed a short section (25ft) and then headed up to the true summit. We made it to the summit at 1:30pm. After a short break taking in the views (you could actually see the boot-track up Eldorado from the summit) we simuled down one pitch and then made three raps until we could traverse to the “Black notch.” From there a short and easy but very exposed traverse and downclimb took us to two more rappels into the SW couloir. After that, we downclimbed a lot of loose dirty rock to a snowfield on the south side. It was a long traverse around to the Goode-Storm King Col. At the col we cleaned a lot of old nasty rap slings and added a new one before making the rappel down to the far west side of the Goode Glacier (lots of loose rock on this rappel). Some glacier routefinding took us down to the slabs and heather and back to the bivvy. (8.5 hours up. 6.5 hours down). Hiking back to the Goode-Storm King Col It’s a helluva long hike out after that. All in all a spectacular route and a magnificent mountain. It’s well worth the long approach and all the mosquito bites. More pictures up here: Gear Notes: We brought nuts, a pair of hexes and .5-3 cams. If I were doing it again I’d leave behind the #2 and #3 (some beta indicated the #3 to be very useful, we only placed it once or twice) Al Crampons, Approach Shoes, and Ice Axe Approach Notes: Long and Hot along the PCT; Lots of Mosquitoes in the North Fork. We forded the North Fork without any problems.
  4. Thanks a lot for the info guys. It sounds like mid-June is getting a bit late for Foraker. I'm going to see if we can swing earlier in the season, but unfortunately commitments in the real world may get in the way... We'll see. Once again thanks a lot. I'll be sure to post a trip report if I do get out there.
  5. Appreciate the offer (sounds like you were planning on Infinite Spur?). Here are a few of the things on my mind - half of which don't apply / you'd think of differently if you were descending the route, but I figured I'd throw it up anyway: 1. How long did you plan on fro the route? (did you just go with the AK standard 3 weeks?) 2. What was your plan of attack for the ridge? Alpine style straight from the Kalhitna? A double carry to the summit of Crosson? The route seems to be fairly committing given that retreat involves climbing all the way back the ridge, up Crosson, and back down the steepest parts of the route - how did y'all amange this risk? 3. What time of year did you go (we're planning mid-June)? How were the crevasses along the ridge? How were the 'crux' pitches up to Crosson (icy or just snow)? 4.Any other thoughts / comments? Thanks a lot!
  6. I'm planning a trip out to Foraker to climb the Sultana ridge this summer and was wondering if anyone on CC.com has climbed it before. I'd love to hear some beta and ask some logistical questions, etc...
  7. The real interesting part is here: http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/new/XRez%20Xtreme%20Pano/index.html It looks like it's just a map of where they took the pictures, but if you zoom in (use the scroll wheel) thumbnails appear and you can zoom near infinitely into the thumbnails. It uses Microsoft's "DeepZoom" - definitely the coolest application of this I've seen. I can see climbers on Royal Arches and the Nose
  8. http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/aurora_bivy.html Literally never used, I have a montbell bivvy that seems to fill all my needs. $125
  9. Does anyone have issue #23 or Alpinist they'd be willing to part with? Trying to complete the collection
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