DetachedFlake

Anybody know how far up GC road you can drive at the moment? Was Thinking of skiing Baker this weekend. Gotta be some snow somewhere if you go up high enough...

So does that mean the line's been done before? Wouldn't surprise me, but Taluscat wants to know.

How far up the road were you able to drive?

NY and Pineapple super thin/ not there as of the 3rd. Nothing looked remotely like the pic up top. Our climb had the most white stuff of any line in the area... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=925314

Trip: Snoqualmie Peak N Face - Calvin Klimb Date: 12/3/2009 Trip Report: Trip: Snoqualmie Peak - Calvin Klimb Date: 12/3/2009 Trip Report: Medved, Taluscat and I headed up yesterday to Snoqualmie to have a look Pineapple Express. After botching the approach courtesy of the guidebook, we decided the route wasn't in amenable condition to allow a fast ascent, so we had a poke at a line on the subpeak to the right of Snoqualmie. We are tenatively calling the route Calvin Klimb until somebody tells us we're a bunch of wankers and the line was first done in the 50's. It is the second major corner from right on the subpeak. First pitch was a nice mixed lead of snice, ice and frozen turf with good protection to a tree belay (60M). A blue alien was key pro in the crux. Second pitch was mostly easy snow to a nice airy traverse on good rock and a cam belay (55M). Third pitch headed up the corner system in moderate snice to a tree belay (55M), and a short bit of steep snow and mixed scramble got us to the summit of the subpeak and a nice whiff of Stanibaby's cologne. We hit the route in M4 conditions, but once better ice forms up the route should be easier. Gear notes- cams to 4" and a selection of knifeblades, a stubby screw might be possible if there were any ice. Kevin Hogan, Stanislav Zinkov, Lewis Rogers Calvin Klimb II 5.8 AI3 60 degree 200M First pitch Following the first Second pitch traverse Second pitch traverse and the upper part of the route Last pitch slot Possible wankers

NY wasn't in condition to our tastes, but I suppose it depends on how much you like dry tooling. Don't bother taking screws right now...

Moved to Alpine Lakes TRs

Also interested. Have been up Lib Ridge, but not DC. The more the merrier for breaking trail, right? lewis lbrwhat@yahoo.com

I'm a hamster. provided the weather doesn't fully suck I could be into something, even north twin just for training. Or seracing... definitely getting the jones to swing at something. lewis lbrwhat@yahoo.com

Whoa! Yeah, probly warm, but what they aren't is light. 21 OZ vs 12 and change for the OR's provided OR isn't being, er, ambitious about the weight.

Anybody got high altitude experience with mitts/mittens and have a favorite pair? I have BD Mercurys and I'm not sold they'll cut it over 20000 ft. Anyone tried the Rabs?

I'm working in the Newhalem area for a few months, so I'm looking for anyone who's interested in some sport cragging at Newhalem, or trad up at the pass. I'm solid on low 11 trad, looking to get stronger. I'm there sunday through wedensday, free in the afternoon. Lewis at 360-255-1555 or lbrwhat@yahoo.com

Title says it all. Found on 5/18, I think, in different spots. email to claim. lbrwhat@yahoo.com or call 360-255-1555 if you're in the Newhalem area. Lewis

I think there are a ton of potential lines between the NE butt and the NW rib. Sadly, the snow isn't consolidating into good ice in the corners at the moment, but if yer looking for some good moderate climbing to dull your crampons on, it's great. As I remember it, Stani, you used more micronuts than anything. Cracks tended to be pretty small. There also appear to be some cool looking pure ice and mixed lines closer to the ski area. Haven't scoped them out up close yet.

Found an axe and nalgene bottle at the bivy site just over the notch above Thornton Lakes on the way to NW ridge of Triumph. Call or email to ID. Lewis at lbrwhat@yahoo.com or 360-255-155.

**WARNING!!** Suiattle river road is CLOSED above mile 12! Forest Service gave me a $250 ticket for parking above the barricade at the washout. Just because there's a road doesn't mean you should take it, I guess... _________________________

Found a pair of Marker leather palm gloves on Downey Creek trail on the descent from Ptarmigan traverse/Dome peak. Call Lewis at 360.255.1555 to ID.

Hi Justin, I am another 'hamster looking to get the groove on. Been slow for me, too, so far. I am apparently teknologikaly challenged and can't figger out how to post a &%##$% PM, please hit me back up. I don't have a tick list but am game for lots. Little out of shape for rock, could probly get back to .11s pretty quick. Mostly interested in alpine, but I think my main crush for the winter just fell off (Polish route, Colfax). Nooksak tower? Jagged ridge? Ideas? lewis

This is the problem I had. Does yours do this frequently? I've only had it out in the field once so far, but I'm reluctant to take on a multi-day because it was burning erraticaly and opening the valve to clear it means I can't accurately predict the amount of fuel I'll need. I had hoped for an even burn, at least better than an upright crtridge, which is subject to the internal pressure/temp issues. Have you (or any other cartridge users out there) played with fuel brands? The Windpro does have a generator tube, so I would have guessed the gas phase change would occur there, not at the canister/valve connection. Not sure there...

As an addendum, I'll be happy to schlep a bunch of stoves up somewhere high and cold to do some hard numbers testing if anybody feels like donating from their arsenal. I have a WL int'l, Simmerlite and Windpro, and maybe still a PR floating around. Would like to add a jetboil, reactor, XGK and the PR to the mix. I'll provide canisters if someone can come up with a gram scale. And maybe that CO meter to see just how dangerous these things are, just for giggles. Testing parameter suggestions? lewis

I hadn't heard of the Reactor's vaunted performance before I got this setup to try. Msr Windpro stove with the canister inverted to get gravity feed. BLOWTORCH! I used a heat reflector around my 1.7L titanium pot and got good efficiency (used little fuel, still fast-Sorry, no hard numbers)and simmer control with it at room temps, but this weekend on Baker at about 9500' and windy lo 30's it kept dying down and required constant attention; banging or twidling the regulator valve seemed to work, as did warming the regulator with my hand. Wondered if the stove was getting enough O2 from below to fire well, or if the reg and/or line were subject to freezing due to canister pressure dif. Got away with melting 3 liters and cooking a dinner with a 110g cartridge, but that's about all she wrote. The stove's seen recent maintenance and seems to work fine now back down in town. Anyone else mess with this kind of setup?

Found an ice tool at the base of Pan Dome Falls at Mt Baker ski area back in Jan or feb, can't remeber date. Call me to ID it. Lewis at (360) 255-1555. Will return it after I do a few more routes ...

Slabs on the Tooth were short of ice yesterday. Imagine that. On the other hand, Death Picnic on N Table above Baker Ski Area was in great shape as of monday. Fat and friendly at the top.

You lost it? I found it. ID it and you can have it back after I've used it on a few more routes . No more than three guesses per person, please.

Haven't climbed it, would love to. I'm in Bellingham and can keep an eye on it. Can you give me a head's up on conditions on Shuksan as of the other day? Looking at hitting Shuksan this weekend. Thanks