sklag

You'll find that with cam placements, often, a slight pocket, constriction or nubbin can be found within seconds and within inches of your placement if you look for it... You'll find that when you get into hard fingercracks [real climbing], the best and only finger lock is often the best nut placement as well [this reeks of french freeing], and you can sit and fiddle to get your fingers out of the perfect lock so you can slot a nut in the constriction while you pump out, or you can instantly plug and go a perfect green or yellow alien small mastercam right under or above the neck down spot where your fingers and your bodyweight are residing [thus acting like the jug you desperately wished for]. Thats when one really starts loving [to pull on] cams gear. Ha! I just read between the lines here. Sounds to me like some tape would help your cause.

You that idea looks fine with the fig 8 on a bight, hell look at long's anchor book, how he shortens the equallette and uses 3 pieces to equalize instead of 4. Anywho, also with that extra little nub that's causing everybody grief, why don't you just make a triple fig 8 out of it, and the problem is rectified.

exactly.

saw something on amazon, "avoiding the touch" Dvd's; there seems to be a series of them. They are all about strangers with candy in vans or something... No seriously, they are about self rescue, increasing efficiency, etc... Take a peek. chris

Look a few things, hand jammies are to tape gloves as medical marijuana is to crystal meth. Washington is full of meth heads, therfore I'd say a good 70% of ya have at least tried tape gloves and use them regularly (hehehehe)... Anyways, I work in a hospital with infectious diseases and multi drug resistant bacteria, protection of skin integrity is utmost so as not to contract hep c,aids, mrsa, etc... from my patients. Now the nasty hookers I love, that's a different story... Alright now that I've settled everybody down, when you jam your foot, heel up or down? Knees high or lower? I feel as though on purely vertical cracks my ass is hanging out too far and tearing the shit out of my hands. Any real tips are much appreciated, as well as humorous flaming. Flame on and keep on climbing

Ok, I'm sort of embarrassed to be asking this question but, when I hand jam, or foot jam on thin hands, It freakin' hurts. Any pointers, even just a "suck it up" would do, but how do people do it for hours on end? I mean it hurts pretty good even with tape gloves. Any pointers appreciated.

"I'm her mom"- "no she's not!"... WTF? The best was, "I have to go potty"- Look at her feet- "pssssstttt."

Hey people, I've got a few cams I was wondering about. I've got a full rack of tech friends (1-3.5) with a smattering of rigid friends (2.5-4) with some tricams (.5-2) and hexes/nuts. I need some larger cams and smaller cams. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. What I was looking at for small were ... tcu's, flex friends, small c4's or c3's; Large, tech friends and c4's.

The rope was used by this particular reviewer for top roping in I believe J-tree or something with the super abrasive nature of sandstone rock. But if you look at his set up, you can plainly see that when the rope was weighted, it dragged on the bulge or ledge that was directly below it- not good for any rope. I personally have a piece of shite petzl rope that I was sceptical about, but it's held up for 2 years now with sport climbing and the like. BTW, I haven't heard anything else similar about petzl ropes falling apart from others either.

Ok, I got into a disagreement with a local outdoor store employee over softshell layering systems. What is the general consensus about how much insulation is needed under the softshell? I said it was less-like a r1 and capilene baselayer; he said pffff you need a heavyweight fleece-yo! And then it was on! Who was right? Thanks

That's what I was wondering. But if I extend myself off of the belay a foot or so I guess it's a mute point between the shelf or power point? Right?

Just curious if it is OK to use a device (atc guide)in autoblock mode just by clipping a locking biner into the shelf of an anchor?

No silent partner? Use a gri gri.

that's awesome! um, I'm just curious about the patagonia proprietary membrane and how breathable it has been for you? How do you use the jacket (skiing, climbing, etc...)?

Was looking at the Patagucci stretch element, but was wondering about the h2no stuff they use. How does it compare with lets say event, and or goretex? I guess what I'm asking is, "is this jacket worth the money?"

you could always send them to me for testing...

Just for the record I live in Ohio. It sucks and I heart Washington. I am insanely jealous of alpine climbers right now because the highest "mountain" in columbus is the f-king resevoir dam. I just wish I could climb where you guys climb all the time.

When tying any overhand or variations of (figure eight, etc...) I like to clip a biner into the last loop of the knot, so it is dressed with the biner clipped into the last part of the knot, around the last two strands. This makes it a million times easier to tear down an anchor if it has been weighted at all because the knot doesn't cinch tight due to the biner being there. It's useful for sliding x's with limiter knots, equallette, cordolettes...

I'm curious as to why all the mountie bashing?

This is like the time I bought a pizza from pizza hut at a taco bell, ate 3/4 of it, realized it was expired by like 15 minutes (after I got home and ate 3/4 of it), then took it back and said it was expired and cold. I got all "wtf do you mean I can't get my $5 back?" So the manager was scared and pooped in his pants and gave me $5 to not 'roid rage on him. True story-ask my girlfriend.

not a true newbie-correct. but what is the correct way to belay for these single pitch endeavors? should I sling a tree/whatever at the base or just hope my belayer or me doesn't bump our noggin and drop each other. But I think I've just answered my own question.

Well, I'm contemplating getting some quickdraws and learnin' me how to sport climb, but I am cornfused about how one keeps oneself from getting ripped off your stance when your partner falls? sklag

I know that there have been a lot of technological advances since then, but for a piece of pro, would you use one if it weren't chewed and looked like shit, and guaranteed never dropped from any serious height? just curious if I should just pony up the cash or use the decent ones out of this batch?

The photos, I just took. If you need more yell back. Thanks, Sklag

hey, I just got a rack from a friend at work and was going through the pieces... Have some forged friends, just wondering how to tell the age of these for trigger rebuild purposes? Wild country says there are batch codes, but I can't find them on these. Thanks