Telemack

Nice job, long tour. We are headed in to Glacier the 25th and I'm confused about road & TH access. Is the White Chuck River access closed/damaged? We were thinking of the Boulder Basin-Sitkum Glacier route. How do we get to that? And what aspect of the peak did you ski? Cheers

Thank ewe

I too count by the season, and it's been confusing this last year. I mark the season by when in the fall I first ski on freshies, so last autumn that was in mid-Oct. on Muir. Hope next season starts early....

1. What are we looking at for total miles from the Darrington side? 2. Anyone know about approaching from Stehekin? How far/conditions? 3. Are the standard routes still skiable? Quantity hardly matters since the approach would be very long, but safety of glacier travel and size of runnels/cups are issues. tx

Try these: Blair, Seabury. Backcountry Ski! Washington. Sasquatch Books, 1998. Mostly shorter/winter season tours, but I've used it a lot. A bit of non-Cascade stuff too. Repetitive but good maps. Burgdorfer, Rainer. 100 Classic Backcountry Ski and Snowboard Routes in Washington. The Mountaineers, 1999. The standard, with lots of long hard tours. Maps hard to read. Van Tilburg, Christopher. Backcountry Ski! Oregon. Sasquatch, 2001. Good also, tho I've only used this a few times. Focuses on volcanoes, w/ snowboarding emphasized. Lots on Hood, a bit on Wallowas, some S. WA tours.

I have BD 01s on some K2 (red) Work Stinx, and I had the latest model Voile ski crampon attachment mounted. Haven't used them yet, but I've put the crampon on the ski at home & it seems no problem. My skis are 89mm waist, but I went with the wider crampons (105, I think, not 90mm)'cuz I'm planning on going wider. BTW, avoid the BD tele ski crampon, the one that mounts between the boo sole and the binding cables/cartridges. Every time you raise your heel on a climb the crampon exits the snow, so it's uselss with the climbing wire up or any time the boot isn't flat on the heelpiece, i.e. the crampons almost never bite!

You could try belaying the second w/ a Grigri if this is a big concern. Petzl is a good source for doing this too.

Split Pillar is quite safe. 2-#3s, #4 c4 up high. Burgner-Stanley is easier. P.5 Start facing R, up to the last stance, then turn L (right side in). 1-#3, 1-#4. P.6 Can use the big stuff again, then save smal cams up high. You can do these, bro, but get an early start if you are thinking this fall.

We've all been there. Abs tired on an overhang? Consider a bent-gate on your belay loop, or a fif hook tied in short so you can hang close to the placements w/omuch muscle efort.

Ah, the joys of semi-hard climbing in comfy, sloppy shoes....

Does anyone know if there is still water available at the campsites below Burgundy Spire and Col? Where do you get water if you bivy at the Col? gracias

Is this the formation you briefly look at straight ahead while driving W from Mazama?

There's a bit at the trestle of Exit 38: -hiking up the trail you hit a mossy large bloc w/a few things -when you hit the next boulders by the credit-card-thief sign, take a right and look up behind the low mound---there's a good traverse and some up-things -Lots of elims., traverses, and starts of routes to boulder at the Nevermind Wall -A few more traverses are further down at the first short section of We Did Rock. Also,try looking for the "Black Forest" on this site, but I can't tell you how to get there.

Nice shots. Current road status and approxiamate time from highway to trailhead?