OrygunJim

Ivan, Saturday's good. Will send PM. Stokey for me, then. I've enjoyed the 9s I've lead there so far. (and I swear I didn't use the chalkbag but once, and did my best to smear it off with my boot as I passed)

Would like to head out Saturday, but can arrange schedule to make Sunday happen. Hit some classics? I'd follow someone up .10s or swap lead in the .9s.

People still have sex in their fifties? Damn, hope my shit's still working then...

Thanks for the all the feedback. I look forward to hours in the puffy leather chair with the tawny port and cigars, reading of bold ascents and devastating failures in regions unknown. Speaking of reading... what does it say on the tramp stamp on your avatar pic?

Is that the one about humility being the finest virtue of the gentleman climber, I love that one.

Looking for reading materials during those long wintry nights by the fire. What books have helped shape your climbing style, or what persons have you read about that inspired you? Looking primarily for climbing related items here, no Oprah book club sh*t.

Sending temps at the mudpile. Any or all of these days. C'mon you alpiners, get your sport weenie on!! Me climby in the .10s sport, .9s trad. PM if you can call in sick those days. Mon Sep 17 Partly Cloudy 67°/38° 20% 67°F Tue Sep 18 Partly Cloudy 65°/35° 10% 65°F Wed Sep 19 Partly Cloudy 63°/36° 10% 63°F

Dude, sack up and park the rig at Decker Flat. Make a day trip -approach, climb, return. It will be one of the most satisfying days of your life and the victory beer will be the sweetest you have ever tasted. This is the only way to do FOF in my opinion.

peeyem sent

One of my favorite places. My gf and I were in Enchanted Valley in early season and had too much weather to get high on Anderson. In years past I've found a little more snow makes these scrambles much more enjoyable, it's just a matter of timing weather patterns (which i've come to learn is impossible on the peninsula). Great pics of the area and good TR, they really convey the spirit of the area.

I climbed SRS for the first time this summer. Decided it was a good place to learn how to climb bad rock. I agree with the Gri-Gri recommendation if any type of distraction is a possibility, esp. at a crag destination...though nothing beats undivided attention. Glad you two are relatively okay and thanks for the post, discussing these events keeps us mindful.

Appreciate the help. I agree the highlight of these climbs may not be technical superiority, rather, the outright solitude in a fantastic alpine setting.

This would be the Royal Basin area of Olympic National Park. More specifically the Needles above the upper basin. Even more specifically the Needles above Surprise Basin that is above Upper Royal Basin.

Trip: Needles - Martin Pk. routes, know 'em? Date: 8/22/2007 Trip Report: Took a trip to Royal and the Needles this week. After scrambling around the area I am left with quality memories and a few unanswered questions. I found the Olympic Mts. Climbing guide 4th ed. not so helpful on this foray into the hills. The drawing on page 148 was useful only for gross navigation and not more detailed beta. Also, previous posts regarding this area are few, and possibly erroneous. Help a fella out if you've been here and know for sure. Arrowhead, largest free pillar on the east side of Martin, or the sharp pillar underneath Incisor? Another post suggests Arrowhead is the fang-like spire under the Incisor, but that approach wouldn't jive with the guide. This pic seemed to represent the book's description "Guarding Martin Pk's E. face, it towers over surprise basin and is seen prominently from Royal Lake". Routes begin at notch between Martin and Arrowhead. View of Martin from Surprise Pass looking S. (Toward Deception, not pictured) What I believe to be Arrowhead is the leftmost spire in this pic. Also, other than the one post in the archive, anyone know about these routes on the E. side of Mt. Clark? Despite the poor reviews of most Olympic rock, the formations here seem surprisingly solid, probably 3-4 pitches depending on start point. We had a kick ass time and as many alpine endeavors end up, we learned a lot for next time. We'll go back and that's why I'm interested in other experiences. I wanna climb them all, but want to go with good info. Approach Notes: Royal Creek via Dungeness TH.

avalanche lillies were busting out everywhere. Other than that very few patches of meadow/flowers were present. I gotta tell you goatboy, I referenced your TR from a few years ago to plan my trip. It built some good stoke and got me out there.

It's totally mom-friendly. I saw several on the hike back to the parking lot as well as small children. Only a few 3-8' patches of snow along the trail.

Trip: Tatoosh - Unicorn/Castle Date: 6/26/2007 Trip Report: With a few days off and a clear weather window (who didn't get some the last few days, yeah?!) I headed for the Tatoosh as the snow appeared to be holding. Coming from Portland required a couple of nights stay so I set up camp at Snow Lake, one of the shortest hikes with the biggest payoffs I think. The 26th I set off for Unicorn, a great objective for the novice solo climber. It was neat to be camped below it and gaze at it thoroughly the evening before. After crossing the snow covered talus above the lake I reached the lowest gully. This gully leads to the snowfield above where ample skiing opportunities abound, a great looking bowl. After tromping the snowfield I reached the second, steeper gully. The coverage is a little more narrow here, but ample for kicking steps. The moat at the saddle is an easy step-across. I ascended the north facing slope to the southeast side of the ridge. From there I traversed north to the horn o' the 'corn, an exciting portion of the climb. From there I took one of the fourth class options on the southeast side to the top. No, I didn't use any of that gear...it's training weight. Left camp at 7:00, on the summit at 10:00. Traversed to Boundary and soaked in some more views of Goats, Adams, Hood, Helens. Descended slush via the same route. The next day (27th) I hiked the same start gully, but angled sharp right at the snowfield (pictured below) toward Foss(?) Peak. Much further north than the "usual" saddle. There was a very small (6' wide) notch in which to pass that saved a considerable amount of time in 'shwacking on the west side of the ridge. Castle from the ridge. This experience was a real lesson for me. With only goat trail and snow to follow, I wound up at many dead ends, frustrated and covered in sap. I have come to understand this is often what it means to be a climber in the Cascades. Reaching Castle was a highlight as I was getting tuckered from the tromping. Again, I opted for the fourth class and topped out around 10:00 with fantastic views of Rainier. I descended to the original snowfield and gully and was packing up camp by 14:00, a very happy boy. Gear Notes: Ax,'pons (rarely used), 60m for rappels. Approach Notes: As easy as it seems.

Unicorn, Pinnacle, Castle, any or all. Looking to explore this range for the first time and can adjust dates a few days on either end. Any route suggestions or condition reports also appreciated.

If you can't seem to keep your eyes the direction you're going, why not mark the rope @ 15m (assuming 60m cord) so when you're looking up and see it pass you know you're close? Or tie a knot in the end, knots are good...

Am I supposed to know who this is? Yeah, they refer to her as the BAG in that photo...windBAG perhaps?

The first time I climbed at Smith was with Tom Egan. He guides for Timberline Mountain Guides most springs and Jackson Hole Mt. Guides the rest of the year. Look up FA's in the Gorge and you'll see his name (i.e. he knows the place pretty well). He showed me some great lead climbs and set up TR's on harder stuff that were not in the most populated areas.

How the eff did you convince your wife the basement alteration would increase selling value?!

I will be in central Oregon for spring break, looking for a day or two at the crag. Sport mostly in the easy .10s, but I'll belay you on whatever of course...