OrygunJim

Trip: Tatoosh - Unicorn/Castle Date: 6/26/2007 Trip Report: With a few days off and a clear weather window (who didn't get some the last few days, yeah?!) I headed for the Tatoosh as the snow appeared to be holding. Coming from Portland required a couple of nights stay so I set up camp at Snow Lake, one of the shortest hikes with the biggest payoffs I think. The 26th I set off for Unicorn, a great objective for the novice solo climber. It was neat to be camped below it and gaze at it thoroughly the evening before. After crossing the snow covered talus above the lake I reached the lowest gully. This gully leads to the snowfield above where ample skiing opportunities abound, a great looking bowl. After tromping the snowfield I reached the second, steeper gully. The coverage is a little more narrow here, but ample for kicking steps. The moat at the saddle is an easy step-across. I ascended the north facing slope to the southeast side of the ridge. From there I traversed north to the horn o' the 'corn, an exciting portion of the climb. From there I took one of the fourth class options on the southeast side to the top. No, I didn't use any of that gear...it's training weight. Left camp at 7:00, on the summit at 10:00. Traversed to Boundary and soaked in some more views of Goats, Adams, Hood, Helens. Descended slush via the same route. The next day (27th) I hiked the same start gully, but angled sharp right at the snowfield (pictured below) toward Foss(?) Peak. Much further north than the "usual" saddle. There was a very small (6' wide) notch in which to pass that saved a considerable amount of time in 'shwacking on the west side of the ridge. Castle from the ridge. This experience was a real lesson for me. With only goat trail and snow to follow, I wound up at many dead ends, frustrated and covered in sap. I have come to understand this is often what it means to be a climber in the Cascades. Reaching Castle was a highlight as I was getting tuckered from the tromping. Again, I opted for the fourth class and topped out around 10:00 with fantastic views of Rainier. I descended to the original snowfield and gully and was packing up camp by 14:00, a very happy boy. Gear Notes: Ax,'pons (rarely used), 60m for rappels. Approach Notes: As easy as it seems.

Unicorn, Pinnacle, Castle, any or all. Looking to explore this range for the first time and can adjust dates a few days on either end. Any route suggestions or condition reports also appreciated.

If you can't seem to keep your eyes the direction you're going, why not mark the rope @ 15m (assuming 60m cord) so when you're looking up and see it pass you know you're close? Or tie a knot in the end, knots are good...

Am I supposed to know who this is? Yeah, they refer to her as the BAG in that photo...windBAG perhaps?

The first time I climbed at Smith was with Tom Egan. He guides for Timberline Mountain Guides most springs and Jackson Hole Mt. Guides the rest of the year. Look up FA's in the Gorge and you'll see his name (i.e. he knows the place pretty well). He showed me some great lead climbs and set up TR's on harder stuff that were not in the most populated areas.

How the eff did you convince your wife the basement alteration would increase selling value?!

I will be in central Oregon for spring break, looking for a day or two at the crag. Sport mostly in the easy .10s, but I'll belay you on whatever of course...