Steph_Abegg

Thanks everyone for the words of support and encouragement. Now about 3 weeks from the accident and cutting the narcotics cold turkey, I am feeling myself again. Which means yearning to be back in those mountains! Might be awhile though. I'm trying to look at the recovery as my challenge for the year, and am determined to be back and stronger for it by next summer. This accident and Dallas Kloke's even more tragic accident are reminders that the mountains are powerful and unpredictable. It's part of what makes alpine climbing what it is and it's not going to stop me from loving the mountains, but its best to realize the potential consequences and try to be as well prepared for them as we can be. Thanks again for the supportive comments. -Steph

Was that Mt. Sir Donald? Glad to see I'm not the only one who takes photos of summit registers!

Somehow, making words with my alphabet cookies helped me to stay sane up there. The worst part was the first 2 hours, wondering if my sister would find cell service, since if she could not it was doubtful she would make it to a pay phone in time to get an airlift that day. We were lucky with the cell service, and lucky that the helo happened to be all ready to go as it was on a recon for a body up on Snow King. The helo was sent in by Snohomish County Sherrif's Office, and I do have to say they did a phenomenal job. These guys really put themselves on the line to rescue climbers in need. Many of them are volunteer helpers. I guess I will put it out there that there is some nice gear on the route that my sister left behind as she rappelled to the glacier. There's a rope (might be damaged), at least 4 cams, and several biners and slings. So, if anyone happens to have a Vesper adventure in mind in the near future, maybe look out for some gear. We were slightly to the right of the gully on the lower face, since the gully was wet at the time we were climbing, so it might be a bit off the ideal route. Thanks everyone for the support and encouragement. Being injured sucks, especially long-term like this injury clearly is going to be, but at least I was injured doing something I love doing. I will take it as my challenge for the year to get myself back to 100% by next season! -Steph

You're welcome, I had a fun time and hopefully will make the CND Rockies an annual adventure. Lots to be climbed! As a matter of personal preference, I prefer downclimbing to rappelling any day. Part of the reason is that downclimbing is faster, but my main reason is that I'd rather deal with the looseness in my immediate vicinity rather than worry about all the looseness around 30m of rope above me. But, I suppose there is a valid argument that being on a rope is better than being unroped....

Trip: 4 climbs in the Canadian Rockies - Yukness, Hungabee, Huber, Temple Date: 8/24-28/2010 Trip Report: Scott Bingen, Steve Trent, and I just got back from a climbing road trip to the Canadian Rockies. We climbed 3 summits in Yoho NP (BC) and also climbed Mt. Temple in Banff NP (Alberta) before heading home. It was a fun trip, full of massive mountains, spectacular scenery, and ubiquitous Rockies choss. Day 1 - Aug 24 - Yukness Mtn The first day we took the bus to Lake O'Hara (avoids walking 11km along road), hiked a couple of hours to the basin below Opabin Pass where we established camp, and then scrambled up Yukness Mountain for some stellar views of the park. A friend named Demetri (from Canmore) joined us. Day 2 - Aug 25 - Hungabee Mtn + Abbot Hut The second day the four of us (Scott, Steve, Demetri, and I) climbed the West Ridge of Hungabee Mountain, which is the highest summit in Yoho National Park and lies on the continental divide between BC and Alberta. This climb represents the epitome of Rockies climbing: massive, chossy, tricky route-finding, and spectacular summit views. We had reservations at Abbot Pass Hut, so despite the fact we got down to camp as the sun was setting, we packed up to hike 3.5 hours to Abbot Pass. Demetri had to work the next day, so he hiked out. The grueling ascent in the dark was all worth it when we were greeted with a fire burning in the wood stove and water already boiling on the stove. Day 3 - Aug 26 - Mt. Huber The third day we woke up to a brilliant morning at the cozy Abbot Pass Hut. After the long day the day before, it was nice to just relax in such a beautiful spot. But it wasn't long before I began to get antsy to climb some of the mountains towering around us, so I left to go climb Mt. Huber (via the Huber Ledges route, since I preferred to have a partner if I went up the more technical route from Abbot Pass), while Scott and Steve opted to hang out at the hut. I reconnected with Scott and Steve evening at the Lake O'Hara parking lot, and we drove to Canmore to stay with some friends. Day 4 - Aug 28 - Mt. Temple Finally, before heading back to Seattle, we took advantage of a 1-day weather window to climb the nearby Mt. Temple in Banff National Park. Interesting note: Mt. Temple had been the location of my first hike and camping trip when I was 3 months old (see photo below). As usual, I've posted a full trip report on my website: Canadian Rockies Part I (3 climbs in Yoho NP): http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/yoho Canadian Rockies Part II (Mt. Temple): http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/temple

Hope you had a good trip too, what did you guys climb? (Sorry, I think when we met in the parking lot I wasn't too coversational, I was distracted by the conundrum of fitting 2 ropes and 2 cameras in my pack!)

Go to Forum List, then Route Reports, and choose the area you want to make a TR for. Then make a New Post. Hope that helps. -Steph

Thanks for the tip, try this: www.stephabegg.com ($20, since you have to pay $10 for the domain name and $10 for the forwarding. worth it though.)

Trip: Rebel Yell (7p, 5.10), Chianti Spire - Date: 8/12/2010 Trip Report: Jason and I were ready to get our hands on some good rock climbing, so we spent the last couple of days in the Wine Spires. Our main objective was the East Face of Chianti Spire, otherwise known as Rebel Yell. This route features 7 pitches of sustained and solid crack climbing, complete with a couple of offwidth sections. Although Rebel Yell can be climbed car-to-car in a day, we camped overnight at Burgundy col, and also climbed Silver Star and Vasiliki Tower. Plus, I took a lot of night photos - the Milky Way was quite distinct with the new moon. As usual, I've posted full trip reports and photos on my website: Rebel Yell: https://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/chianti Silver Star and Vasiliki Tower: https://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/silverstar Here are some photos:

Ed, Thanks for the tidbit of interesting info, I like knowing the history of the route. I'll add some of the history to my TR on my website (probably won't update the uploaded topo though). Thanks!

These them? Fun pitch.

If you have the time for the longer approach via Whatcom Pass, the route might be worth it....=)

Trip: North Buttress (IV, 5.10), Bear Mtn Date: 7/31/2010 Trip Report: The 2000-ft steep north face of Bear has some of the best and most intimidating alpine rock climbing in the Cascades. Better yet, getting there requires a passport and a grueling bushwhack. This last weekend, Aaron Clifford and I climbed the classic north buttress (IV, 5.10). The climbing was some of the best we've encountered in the alpine areas of the Cascades. As usual, I've posted a full TR on my website. This TR has a pitch-by-pitch description and photos of the climb. Check it out at: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/bear'>http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/bear Here are some photos: Link to larger version of photo overlay. Again, a link to my full TR on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/bear

Okay, I've posted my trip report with lots of photos on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/johannesburg'>http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/johannesburg Here are a few photos: Again, the link to my full TR on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/johannesburg

Here's a route overlay I've put together. I hope to have some photos ready by tomorrow evening. What a fun climb, thanks for being a great partner for a great route, Tom! Link to larger version.

3 in a row would be kind of cool...it was pretty cool to be able to compare Liberty and Ptarmigan Ridges under close conditions, and adding Curtis would cover another north side ridge.... But I think I am all Rainier'ed out for awhile! I want some rock, splitter cracks and cams sound pretty good right now!

Trip: Ptarmigan Ridge, Mt. Rainier - Date: 7/18/2010 Trip Report: Jason Schilling and I had such fun and great conditions on Liberty Ridge on July 9-11 that we decided to climb Ptarmigan Ridge this last weekend (July 16-18). Ptarmigan Ridge is another north-side route that is often considered along with Liberty Ridge as one of Rainier's "best" routes. Steve Trent joined Jason and I for the climb of Ptarmigan Ridge. This was the first climb the three of us had done together since the previous year's accident on Mt. Terror. We decided to approach Ptarmigan Ridge via White River to avoid a car plant, and also so we could enjoy the spectacular camp on Curtis Ridge. The second day we ascended to the equally spectacular high camp on Ptarmigan Ridge, which sits underneath the towering ice cliff of the end of the Liberty Cap Glacier. We had ideal snow conditions and weather on Ptarmigan Ridge, and we all highly enjoyed the route and each other's company. The verdict: Both Ptarmigan Ridge and Liberty Ridge are stellar routes — Ptarmigan Ridge offers a more challenging and varied climbing experience, while Liberty Ridge boasts a classic route line and ridgeline position. As usual, I've posted a full trip report with LOTS of photos on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/rainierptarmiganridge Again, the link to my full trip report on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/rainierptarmiganridge

Yep, gotta love the gorilla pod. I brought a SLR, 10-22mm wide angle lens, gorilla pod, camera remote, 8 extra batteries (for long exposure shots), and a point-and-shoot....maybe I have the record for the most camera gear to go up Liberty Ridge! I used it all but 3 batteries.....

Yep, took a couple of months of waiting for conditions and weather to fall in line, but it was worth the wait. And I think my broken foot is finally healed after a few months of only half succeeding in trying to lay off it...

Trip: Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge Date: 7/11/2010 Trip Report: This last weekend, my friend Jason Schilling and I climbed Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier. We had perfect conditions, perfect weather, and a great climb together. As usual, I've posted a trip reports (with lots of photos) on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/rainierlibertyridge'>http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/rainierlibertyridge Here are a few photos: Link to larger size. Again, the link to the full trip report and more photos on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/rainierlibertyridge

Dan, Thanks for posting, its an interesting discussion. I had considered the hot rocks + snow + waterproof stuffsack idea, but was a bit concerned with how hot I could get the rocks before melting a hole through the stuffsack. I like idea of using a natural bowl in the rock, I'll have to go back to the cave to check if there were any primo spots for that... =) -Steph

Nope, we both had brought 3L on the climb (even after tanking up in Mountaineer Creek on the approach), so we had enough water even in the cave. I was brainstorming ways we could start melting though if we needed it, though, and I'm sure Tom thought of it too. We could have stayed in that cave for awhile with fire and water, but unless a marmot showed up we would quickly get pretty hungry.... -steph

First, thanks to Tom for being a great partner for a great route! Second, I posted a trip report with some of the "epic" details and photos: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/stuartglaciercouloir Here are a few photos: Photo route overlay (aerial photo by John Scurlock) Looking up the couloir. Tom ready to begin the spicy mixed climbing of difficult-to-protect and difficult-to-climb rimed rock on the summit pyramid. We ended up making an unplanned bivy, but fortunately found a cave and were able to build a fire to keep warm and dry! Good excuse to spend the night in the mountains. Tom traversing the upper east-side slopes of Stuart, with Mt. Rainier in the background (we had good weather the second day). Again, the link to my full TR: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/stuartglaciercouloir

Yep - the weather turned out a bit worse on Sat then we had anticipated, with high winds and poor visibility. Defintely made a challenging route even more challenging, and was what caused us to mistake the SE rib as the E ridge. But, it made for a memorable trip that ended well with a story to tell. -Steph

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir + cozy cave bivy Date: 5/1-2/2010 Trip Report: This last weekend, despite a downturn in the weather forecast, Tom Sjolseth and I made a successful ascent of Mount Stuart via the Stuart Glacier Couloir. Climbing the couloir was the easiest part of this 33-hour adventure, which involved rime ice on Class 5 rock, high winds and white-out conditions, a great bivy spot in a cave with a fire, and a few thousand feet of extra climbing. Mt. Stuart at its best. As usual, I've posted a full trip report with lots of photos on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/stuartglaciercouloir Here are a few photos: Photo route overlay (aerial photo by John Scurlock) Looking up the couloir. Tom ready to begin the spicy mixed climbing of difficult-to-protect and difficult-to-climb rimed rock on the summit pyramid. We ended up making an unplanned bivy, but fortunately found a cave and were able to build a fire to keep warm and dry! Good excuse to spend the night in the mountains. Tom traversing the upper east-side slopes of Stuart, with Mt. Rainier in the background (we had good weather the second day). Again, the link to my full TR: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/stuartglaciercouloir