el jefe

thanks for the info. timson has big hands with fat fingers, so i guess that helped him for sure. and you're right, it would be interesting to know what he did to protect it back in '79. must have been hexes because friends maxed out at #4 -- roughly equivalent to a #3 camalot, so it was either hexes or way run out!

all of those sound good to me. i'm basically just a rock climber, but in my experience, failure occurs when i can't pull my feet up to the next holds rather than because i'm unable to do a pull up. although to be truthful, mostly it's just that i can't hold on any longer...

thanks for the link to the tabata calf raises, they look brutal. for what it's worth, my opinion is that "knees to elbows" is probably more relevant for climbing than pull ups.

what sort of rack did you need? you mentioned placing your "last #5 camalot"...

don't worry, bill, it's not just you...

you know you've nailed it when pink shows you his neener neener lizard...

ooh, dude, watch out, big bad tradman called you a "sport wanker" and a "prick". too bad you ain't got the balls to toprope a route!

nice work! congratulations on the send.

in the old days we would use crampons when climbing ice so didn't have to do any pullups. give it a try sometime.

you probably don't mean to be a dick, but nevertheless...

i visited the boulders at swan falls, idaho this spring and most were completely covered in paintball splotches. essentially the place is dead as far as bouldering goes. too bad as some of the blocs looked pretty good.

yes, bug, cheaper than prozac and with fewer untoward side effects.

nice one!

someone needs to put in a road to colchuck lake, too. the place will never take off as a cragging destination if you expect people to walk that far!

i don't believe i ever claimed to be in full possession of my faculties...quite the contrary, i'm sure.

i'm confused, moses, is it boring omen that you like, or women who bear sons? or bare boring women who bear sons?

thanks for calling me "whipper snapper". at my age that is high praise indeed!

i'm 52 years old and have been climbing for 24 years, so 7 years from now i guess i'll inevitably become an old fart? i hope not. good luck in yosemite. i'm sure the younger generation down there will have the good manners to put down their cell phones and step aside when they see the hexes on your harness.

no, bill, that's your role in this forum. i'm just tired of old farts who go to the crags looking for reasons to be pissed off.

It’s amazing to me that this “discussion” (“rant” would be a better word) is still going on. This thread was started by a venomous old fart as a way of spewing invective on younger climbers (“gym mentality”, “cell phone generation”) disguised as a “discussion” regarding acceptable behavior at the crag. He even confesses in a later post that he didn’t try negotiating (“I am guilty of sometimes getting irritated, instead of being friendly and making hints about how excited I am to lead it. I know better too, because I've used that tactic”), but quickly backpedals away from taking any responsibility for his own feelings and behavior by pointing out that the other group was remiss because they didn’t read his mind (“leaders used to get more respect” – did you tell them you wanted to lead the route?). Jesus, what a load this is. I say it’s high time grampa Mark here grew up and learned that you get respect from others by showing it first -- which means that if you want something from other people, then you need to open your mouth and ask for it. Don’t walk away sulking and then complain on the internet about the poor manners of those who aren’t able to anticipate all of your needs, because the simple truth is that most people aren’t walking around the crag thinking about what Markwebster might want. You can only call this behavior “excessive top roping” if the group in question had refused to share the route with you. A better name for this thread would have been "Sulky old schooler having a snit".

the obvious solution is to do like golfers do and sign up for a "tee time" on busy weekends.

my guess is that mr. cilley's opinion is based on the photo of "colchuck reality" as his specialty is hard cracks ca. 20-25 feet in length.

you know you've become an old fart when you start posting your "pet peeves" on the internet. bottom line is that other people aren't required to approach the sport using your rules. gotta agree with kevbone on this one: they got there first.

do you guys have a topo of the route?

if you check the "rock climbing" forum, you'll see that the colchuck "separate reality" pic even caught the eye of that venerable crack specialist, dick cilley...