gt5816v

The reachy bolt is right off of the 3rd anchor on the small ledge. It's just out of reach top stepping the left anchor bolt. There are several good reaches but that's the only one that requires a stick clip/hook move... You can read about my first attempt on this route here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=738892

Sounds like you need to sleep on a portaledge, perhaps in Zion on Moonlight....

Aye, it's a little guy (BD Stubby). Being so overhung it's a really easy line to haul. Gives the leader something to do while the second cleans too

Thanks. It's a great route with tons of exposure. Just watch the loose rocks in the cave.

Trip: Smith Rocks Monkey Face - West Face Aid Route Date: 4/27/2008 Trip Report: So Dan F and I tried it again. The West Face rematch! This time we got the last pitch in with lots of time to spare. I had the first pitch: Dan jugging up: Dan leading p2 and p3. I got p4 and Dan had p5 Dan rapping off: Gear Notes: Small rack, offset nuts ~20 draws and 2 ropes. ****Stick clip****

I was near the top of the first pitch on WF so proably close to 40 meters up. I'd guess he got canopy ~30 meters above me... sailed by and said hello, then drifted around the corner. I have lots of pictures of Dan on the first pitch of the bolt ladder and the summit pitch coming out of the cave. I'll try and get them edited and posted this week. Thanks for the fun climb Dan!

I ordered these without trying them on. Bouldered in them for less than 10 minutes at the gym. They are 43.5 and my true shoe size is 11-11.5 so they are way too small. Retail is like $120 I'd like to get ~$80 out of them to put towards a pair in my size

I picked up the 1-4 from MG. They are a bit narrower than their C4 counter parts and just slightly wider than C3s. I don't have any other cams to compare them too. The trigger is softer than the C3 and I like the feel. Like Bill I'm a bit confused about the trigger cable placements. Seems like if they rotated them 90 degrees the stem would nest better. Nice solid piece of gear though!

Aye aye!

Dan F and I were out there a couple of weeks ago. Aided up something to the climbers left of the corner then did the corner. Snowed on and off but the rock was mostly dry with just a few went spots. There was not a single person there besides us all day. Good times

Damn, too slow. I wanted a second livewire.... Thanks anyway Bill

Wow, that brings back some memories! When I was 15 I hiked up to Coldfish lake, then onto the Spatzizi (SP) river where we built a log raft. We took that down until it met the Stakine and onto telegraph falls. No technical climbing just a lot of bushwacking! Nice work guys!!

Nice work guys! I picked up that new guide book for RR. Now I want to head down there!

He's referring to REI's return policy but I don't think they resell any technical climbing gear for liability reasons..

I've only used this pack once so it's perfect. It's almost 10 years old and has been mothballed in my closet for nearly that entire time. This is US made unlike their new packs. I have the Vector day pack and snowboard attachment along with a rain cover w/pouch and a water bottle holder. From http://www.trailspace.com/gear: "User Review: Osprey Xenith Reviewed September 14, 1997 by Mike Fogarty Rating: rated 5 of 5 stars Design: Internal Size: 7000 ci (size large/with the Vector Day) Number of Pockets: toplid, upper, lower, & Vector day Max. Load Carried: 75lb Height of Owner: 6'4" Price Paid: $400 I recently wore this pack to train for and to participate in an expedition seminar on Mt. Rainier. I bought this pack because of its workmanship and comfort. While shopping I tried a Mountainsmith, a North Face, and a Kelty Lockdown. Each was tested with about 50lb load over a period of a couple of days. The Osprey was the most comfortable and had by far had the best workmanship. A plus is Osprey's Vector system. The Vector compression system is a line of 8 different pack attachments that act to carry gear and serve as the main compression system for the pack bag. I upgraded the standard 400 cu.in Vector 2 for a highly versitle 750 cu.in Vector Day. The day serves as a small day-bag and also will house a hydration bladder! It's a great system. I plan to purchase additional Vector components. Another plus to the Ospery Xenith is the fact that it has slash zips and a really nice built-in sleeping bag stuffer.... which makes getting your sleeping bag into the pack a BREEZE!! In summary, it's a well thought out and well made pack, a very comfortable pack, and the vector compression system adds tremendous functionality and versatility!" $150 OBO 97225 can ship where ever