gt5816v

The reachy bolt is right off of the 3rd anchor on the small ledge. It's just out of reach top stepping the left anchor bolt. There are several good reaches but that's the only one that requires a stick clip/hook move... You can read about my first attempt on this route here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=738892

Sounds like you need to sleep on a portaledge, perhaps in Zion on Moonlight....

Aye, it's a little guy (BD Stubby). Being so overhung it's a really easy line to haul. Gives the leader something to do while the second cleans too

Thanks. It's a great route with tons of exposure. Just watch the loose rocks in the cave.

Trip: Smith Rocks Monkey Face - West Face Aid Route Date: 4/27/2008 Trip Report: So Dan F and I tried it again. The West Face rematch! This time we got the last pitch in with lots of time to spare. I had the first pitch: Dan jugging up: Dan leading p2 and p3. I got p4 and Dan had p5 Dan rapping off: Gear Notes: Small rack, offset nuts ~20 draws and 2 ropes. ****Stick clip****

I was near the top of the first pitch on WF so proably close to 40 meters up. I'd guess he got canopy ~30 meters above me... sailed by and said hello, then drifted around the corner. I have lots of pictures of Dan on the first pitch of the bolt ladder and the summit pitch coming out of the cave. I'll try and get them edited and posted this week. Thanks for the fun climb Dan!

I picked up the 1-4 from MG. They are a bit narrower than their C4 counter parts and just slightly wider than C3s. I don't have any other cams to compare them too. The trigger is softer than the C3 and I like the feel. Like Bill I'm a bit confused about the trigger cable placements. Seems like if they rotated them 90 degrees the stem would nest better. Nice solid piece of gear though!

Aye aye!

Dan F and I were out there a couple of weeks ago. Aided up something to the climbers left of the corner then did the corner. Snowed on and off but the rock was mostly dry with just a few went spots. There was not a single person there besides us all day. Good times

Damn, too slow. I wanted a second livewire.... Thanks anyway Bill

Wow, that brings back some memories! When I was 15 I hiked up to Coldfish lake, then onto the Spatzizi (SP) river where we built a log raft. We took that down until it met the Stakine and onto telegraph falls. No technical climbing just a lot of bushwacking! Nice work guys!!

Nice work guys! I picked up that new guide book for RR. Now I want to head down there!

He's referring to REI's return policy but I don't think they resell any technical climbing gear for liability reasons..

LMAO

When I was an electrician we used to send the apprentices to the job trailer for wire stretchers when they weren't being useful... Similar technique I suppose.