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Clavote

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Posts posted by Clavote

  1. No, people do not perform better stoned. In all test performed, people were impaired in their performance.

     

    There is no data of any kind on this that relates to climbing in any valid sense. This sort of blanket claim is ridiculous. Thirty years of experience with climbers operating at a fairly high level of [trad] performance clearly illustrates a differing reality. And just a note - pilots perform instrument landings far better on 1.5oz of alcohol - and those are from documented FAA-sanctioned studies that go back to the sixties.

     

     

    Of course it was a blanket statement and there is no data that relate to climbing, but if someone is stoned, they may well be impaired while climbing.

     

    Maybe we can sponsor a scientific study and we can meet to discuss the results over a bong. Or just fuck that and fire up that splif.

     

    I'm not so sure about older FAA data. Hell, we could go back and see that tobacco had all kinds of claimed benefits. Ahhhhh...lung cancer...so relaxing, so alive with pleasure.

     

    I used to ace finals in college drunk. Sober, I could have done better. I definietly do not work stoned. It makes my boring day even longer and it does impair my abilities.

     

    In general, I believe that being stoned does impair most people.

  2. What is your favored method of alpine ganja administration?

     

    Personally, I like jays on the mountain. They are light and are a self contained TCH delivery device. Fairly windproof when lit. Does not dump your hemp when tilted. Your choice of papers is also quite wide and if you have some flavor enhancers...oh...maybe something blondish or black you can crumble it in like blue cheese!

     

    Sometimes a pipe is nice, but that's all extra weight. Weight that can be better used carrying munchies.

     

    Also, what kind of ganja is important. Organicly grown. Mmmmm tasty.

    www.kine2b.com

    A nice selection above.

     

    Seriously, this new legislation may require me to climb to the lawless zone above 7000 with a MLU. Marijuana Locater Unit so I can find my way back to the tent. Doood, I was lost without my stash.

     

     

  3. I've noticed that some folks, when stoned, perform better, yet some perform dramatically worse. I think it;s incumbent on them to figure it out.

     

    I have noticed that older people tend to have this issue sorted out much better, ie they don't smoke while belaying if smoking makes them stupid, slow and sleepy.

     

    As Kev points out, it's pretty common around here, and some of the best companions (who still can perform well) smoke out occasionally (or frequently :grin: ).

     

     

    No, people do not perform better stoned. In all test performed, people were impaired in their performance. Unless they were smoking oregano.

     

    Drunk people used to believe they drove better while drunk too.

     

     

     

  4. Such a peaceful group.

     

    http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/asia/article1414137.ece

     

     

     

    Female Pakistani minister shot dead for 'breaking Islamic dress code'

    (Rahat Dar/EPA)

     

    Zilla Huma Usman was an ally of General Musharraf and promoted rights for women in Pakistan

    Devika Bhat, and Zahid Hussain in Islamabad

    A Pakistani minister and woman’s activist has been shot dead by an Islamic extremist for refusing to wear the veil.

     

    Zilla Huma Usman, the minister for social welfare in Punjab province and an ally of President Pervez Musharraf, was killed as she was about to deliver a speech to dozens of party activists, by a “fanatic”, who believed that she was dressed inappropriately and that women should not be involved in politics, officials said.

     

    Mrs Usman, 35, was wearing the shalwar kameez worn by many professional women in Pakistan, but did not cover her head.

     

    The attack happened in Gujranwala, 120 miles southeast of Islamabad, where the minister’s office is based. As Ms Usman, 35, stepped out of her car – where she was greeted by her co-workers throwing rose petals - the attacker pulled out a pistol and fired a single shot at close range, hitting her in the head. She was airlifted to hospital in the provincial capital Lahore, but died soon afterwards.

     

    The gunman, Mohammad Sarwar, was overpowered by the minister’s driver and arrested by police. A stone mason in his mid 40s, he is not thought to belong to any radical group but is known for his fanaticism. He was previously held in 2002 in connection with the killing and mutilation of four prostitutes, but was never convicted due to lack of evidence.

     

    Mr Sarwar appeared relaxed and calm when he told a television channel that he had carried out God’s order to kill women who sinned. “I have no regrets. I just obeyed Allah’s commandment,” he said, adding that Islam did not allow women to hold positions of leadership. “I will kill all those women who do not follow the right path, if I am freed again,” he said.

     

    “He is basically a fanatic,” Raja Basharat, the Punjab Law Minister, said. “He is against the involvement of women in politics and government affairs.” A police statement added: “He considers it contrary to the teachings of Allah for a woman to become a minister or a ruler. That’s why he committed this action.”

     

    “He killed her because she was not observing the Islamic code of dress. She was also campaigning for emancipation of women,” said Nazir Ahmad, a local officer.

     

    Ms Usman, a married mother of two sons, joined the pro-Musharraf Pakistan Muslim League after being elected in 2002. A strong supporter of the President’s policy of “enlightened moderation” - designed to tackle extremism - she was appointed to her current post in December last year according to her government biography.

     

    In April 2005, she encouraged the holding of a mini-marathon involving female competitors in Gujranwala – an event which led to riots after police intervened to stop armed Islamic activists from disrupting the race. She also ran a small fashion business from her base in the town.

     

    Shaukat Aziz, the Prime Minister, paid tribute to the minister, describing her as a “committed and dedicated politician”. “During her short span as minister, she took several steps for the welfare of the people of Punjab,” he said. Zobaida Jalal, the federal Minister for Social Welfare, added that Ms Usman’s death was an “unbearable loss to the cause of women rights and their empowerment”.

     

    General Musharraf, whose support for the US-led war on terror has caused consternation among Pakistan's hardline elements, has promised to address women’s rights as part of his more moderate agenda.

     

    But analysts said that the murder of the female minister highlighted the failure of his government in curbing Islamic extremism. The Human Rights Commission of Pakistan in a recent report said that violence against women had increased alarmingly, with some of the incidents incited by Mullahs opposed to women’s emancipation.

     

    Islamists also campaigned against the Women Protection Bill which was recently passed by parliament, which seeks to provide protection to women who have suffered discrimination under Islamic Sharia laws.

     

    Women make up just over 20 per cent of the lower house of parliament, according to the country’s main human rights group, and there are three women ministers in the cabinet of the federal government.

     

    But widespread discrimination against females continues to be a problem in what remains a male-dominated society, particularly in the countryside, where most Pakistanis live.

     

     

     

    Thanks for this informative little piece.

     

    I bet last night you would drop another controversial piece and "cut and run" like the pussy you are. Or maybe you prefer the comfort or a bunker.

     

    In any case, I now know that the voice is god and I can ignore his ass when he wants me to kill women or blow up federal buildings. Christians are so EVIL too. I guess God didn't really discriminate when he made every group full of assholes.

     

     

  5. I don't - but it doesn't bother me if others do. Many do. (person dependant)

     

    My huge criteria, which I am inflexable on, is that my belay's be perfect. (And no fired up seeds pop and land on the rope too)

     

    Discuss....?

     

    It's best to climb sober when any drug will impair your abilities and decision making. This includes alcohol, pot, medications, etc... Caffeine on the other hand is a beneficial stimulant in the climbing environment.

     

    I fire up the tea in the morning and when we bivy, we fire up the rasta effects.

  6. I just bought my hubby a two day Mt. Hood summit program gift certificate with TMG. I'm giving it to him as an anniversary gift in early April, but I want him to start training now without telling him the reason why. Any suggestions on what I can get him to do now to prepare? I figure I can always say I want him to workout with me since I've been trying to get in better shape, but I'm not sure what I need him to do for climbing. Running, walking, biking? Does he need cardio workouts, leg strengthening, a combo? I'm out of my element here so any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks.

     

     

    You can tell him that exercising will improve his sexual stamina and make you an ever more satisfied wife.

     

    What guy would say no?

  7.  

    I would not get the AK if I lived in N. America.

     

    I believe Tvash actually meant an ack ack gun, not an AK47. You know, like this:

     

    ackack.jpg

     

    Yes, although I prefer the four barrel version.

     

     

    Well, what good is that?

     

    Do you know how much space the ammo will take up in the 2 car garage? You wont be able to park your car in there anymore.

     

    Second, that ammo weighs a lot. Who is going to bring the ammon over to the weapon? You gotta consider how much the little kids can carry at a time. Maybe less than 6 rounds can be carried by a 6 y.o.

     

    Even in Africa and E. Europe, most AA weapons operators are 12 or older because the warlords know how much the little kids can carry.

     

    Also keep in mind that your ability to move and evade is seriously restricted and you will need a truck to move that baby.

    Big target. The four barrel version will eat up ammo twice a fast.

     

    I'm still for small arms. Or, a 50 cal. BMG type weapon. hehe

     

    My two car garage is so full of junk I can't get into it anyway. An AK AK would fit perfectly on the flat pitched roof (with some beam reinforcement, perhaps). The next door neighbor even took down the beautiful doug firs that would block my line of fire (bitch!). As for reloading; if you sent out an email to all your friends saying "Hey, come on over. I've got ribs on the barbie, all the beer you can drink, and an AK AK gun that needs firing", how many reloaders do you think you'd have at your disposal? I don't know about you, but I can safely say that I could probably charge a hefty fee for the privilege.

     

    The idea of using 6 year olds to hump ammo is ludicrous. They'd been too busy mixing martinis.

     

     

    Good point on the 6 year olds! No use in squandering them unless you have to.

     

    Ribs....mmmmm...guns...mmm...beer...mmmm

    I'll pay if the ribs and beer are part of the fee.

  8.  

    I would not get the AK if I lived in N. America.

     

    I believe Tvash actually meant an ack ack gun, not an AK47. You know, like this:

     

    ackack.jpg

     

    Yes, although I prefer the four barrel version.

     

     

    Well, what good is that?

     

    Do you know how much space the ammo will take up in the 2 car garage? You wont be able to park your car in there anymore.

     

    Second, that ammo weighs a lot. Who is going to bring the ammon over to the weapon? You gotta consider how much the little kids can carry at a time. Maybe less than 6 rounds can be carried by a 6 y.o.

     

    Even in Africa and E. Europe, most AA weapons operators are 12 or older because the warlords know how much the little kids can carry.

     

    Also keep in mind that your ability to move and evade is seriously restricted and you will need a truck to move that baby.

    Big target. The four barrel version will eat up ammo twice a fast.

     

    I'm still for small arms. Or, a 50 cal. BMG type weapon. hehe

  9. I really get a kick out of all the racist remarks. I'm not white.

     

    :rolleyes: Hey sport, just having been to Somalia doesn't make you black.

     

    Most people are not white. Albinos maybe.

     

    Most CAUCASIANS I know are a shade of pink or a light tan.

     

    He never did say what kind of non-white he was?

    Maybe a coward yellow color. ( No, asians are not yellow)

  10. 'm interested in what capacity you have served and where. Did you want to share with us? Or can we just assume that you are the outspoken type of coward that is too much of a pansy to actually serve?

     

    Actually, the only military people that ever impress me, or any other people in positions of power or authority or wealth or simply any kind of accomplishment, are those that never ever feel the need to brag or proclaim their deeds or accomplishments. You, sir, strike me as someone in serious need of constant validation. As is often said 'money talks, but wealth whispers'. Seems to me serving your country is the supreme selfless act and not one you get to trot out whenever you disagree with someone's protests about your country's actions. Or did you only join the military so you could blow shit up? Met plenty of those, unfortunately.

     

    You people are soliciting this sort of response. Now when you get the answer you don't like you try to shoot someone's personal credibility apart.

     

    I did not serve in Iraq. But I did serve in the Mog and the blood started spilling before we even left the USA. I called in the first medevac as we unceremoniously concluded some tirehouse training and watched PV2 XXX take his last breath waiting for the blackhawk. There were several other members in my platoon which made larger sacrifices than boneheads on the internet trying to play out the acts war from their keyboards thousands of miles away.

     

    Validation is key when you want to talk about any subject and claim some sort of understanding about the matter at hand. The pathetic example here was trying to suggest that I might have a problem explaining reasoning for death to family members at home. Let me tell you that I have done this. I looked the widow in the eye and could only offer a few humble words to her and the less than one year old infant son he left behind. Two days before I was busy cleaning his blood from the eyelets of my boots and recalled the entire incident over and over again. Within a few weeks we were seeing firefights and skirmishes on a daily basis. There were plenty of people that never came home from that trashpile too. I would say that it more than qualifies me to respond and tell him what a jackass he really is. So get off your trip about explaining death.

     

    The only trashpile I see is the pile of idiots here that think they know about spilling blood and the families which have to deal with it.

     

     

    My first hand service alone; side by side as a comrade puts me far above bottom feeders which come in here and think they can politicize me into a corner about this thing.

     

     

     

    OK, you're a crackhead.

     

    I know of no veteran that wants to dicuss, let alone tell a story about what happened in combat to non-combatants or even their wives. Your behaviour is suspect. Very, very suspect.

     

    If you really need to re-live that episode, then you should get a shrink at the VA. This is the wrong place for you to work out your PTSD issues.

     

    You are just a very distasteful person.

  11. As for your frequent need to brag to the rest of us; save it. A lot of us have served in the military here. BFD.

     

    I'm interested in what capacity you have served and where. Did you want to share with us? Or can we just assume that you are the outspoken type of coward that is too much of a pansy to actually serve?

     

    Please go ahead and cite all of my frequent bragging outbursts one by one.

     

    You've come onto these threads and made several accusations of racism and now you want to target my credibility when it comes to matters of discussion war and death.

     

    Have you ever had you BDUs spattered with blood from your fellow squad members? Have you ever had to call in a medevac and watch your battle buddy take his last breath before medical help arrived? I didn't think so.

     

     

     

    You're fucking kidding right?

     

    Your source is the NY SUN? People in NYC laugh at that rag.

     

    So you served, so what? I did too and no one cares. Trying to justify your position by saying you served is not exactly relevant. You simply want to gain some credibility to make your shit stink nice. Transparent.

     

    Yeah, I've seen shit and had shit hapen to me. So what? For purposes of your argument. Who cares. Just because you served makes you no better than anyone else or entitles you to act like you earned some special priviledge or have some secret information that trumps everything else. You are the asswipe that brought in your service record to bolster your credibility. YOU. Even with that, your actions are questionable. You drop bombs and leave like a coward. I'm sure that's why you stayed in your bunker.

     

    Why don't you go sob over a beer and enjoy your Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. This is really not the place for you to get therapy.

  12. Having been the object of media glorification in the past I'll give my $.02. In 1998 my partner and I made the classic mountaineering blunder and opted to descend a section of steep snow without running protection while neglecting to place running protection because we considered it 'easy'. To make a long story short we fell; he was badly injured and our rescue - along with another accident that happened almost simultaneously with ours on the same route - become national news as the world sat poised in front of NBC to watch the rescue unfold. My photo was on the cover of many big news rags, the same photo ran in newsweek.

     

    Upon returning safely to Anchorage I was contacted by numerous newspapers and media companies. I turned down interviews with the Today show, Readers Digest, the local papers and even a program from the Weather Channel about rescues in foul weather. It was my feeling that the international attention I and my partner were receiving was unjust in that my partner was in a coma and his wife and family were praying for his survival. Furthermore I thought it was unjust that the media turned our stupid blunder into some sort of heroic survival trick.

     

    I know the public wants news and loves crap like mountain rescues but regardless - I wasn't going to give them my time or comments so they could stretch out the events into the headlines for another day. The media turned it into an event and frankly it sickened me.

     

    In my opinion it is climbers like these guys who perpetuate the public opinion that climbers are foolish risk takers. I am the first to agree that anyone can make a stupid mistake - but to flaunt your stupid mistake and use it to get your 15 minutes of fame does a great disservice to the rest of us.

     

    If you get into an accident keep your mouth shut and tell the media to fuck off. If you feel the urge to explain yourself write an article; whatever you do - resist the urge to go on national TV with a stupid grin.

     

     

    Who the fuck were those wannabes?

     

    I want to avoid climbing with them or avoid the mountain they are on. These people just seem like pure bad luck or they have too much money and not enough brains to be buying GPS units and not know how to use them at a critical moment. A critical moment.

     

    I can not see that they fell 500feet. Where? did I miss a cliff or something? They should have corrected the issue of the fall, but either they wanted to appear even more badass or were they so fucking clueless that they had no idea how far they rolled/fell. Maybe that newfangled GPS was set to record a track.

    But hey, you sit there with a shit eating grin and don't bother to set the record straight or perhaps even rebutt the "mandatory MLU" folks. But noooooo....you were on TV.

     

    Good for you. I hope you got paid for your 15 minutes of infamy.

     

    These guys are probably alive because modern society has mitigated the effects of natural selection. And this one scenario had plenty of opportunities to allow for different decisions and a different outcome, IF someone was thinking. Such as getting off the mountain while you can.

     

    But no......they had a MLU, GPS, compass and map, etc...and in the end, it took a cell phone call to save them.

     

     

     

     

  13. I've been here for about a week...thats enough for me..I was drawn to this site from somewhere else because of the tradegy on mt hood...I can't believe the way you people bicker...I'm leaving here with the opinion that a good part of you are irresponsible...I wouldn't be caught on the mountain with a good portion of you...The Kims in their tradegy were partly at fault but also the park system was at fault for not monitoring their LOCKED GATES...as far as you climbers, it should be a requirement to take a transponder or locator if you choos to do this activity that involves a certain amount of "high" as equal amount of "real danger"..you sit here and act like a bunch of teenagers...good bye...act on the side of safety..it wont hurt..

     

    Buhhhh Byeeeee!

  14. A benefit of a sufficient quantity of dogs taken climbing is dogshit functions on the bottom of crampons as effective anti-bot plates.

     

    But this only works below 32 degrees F. Or the shit smells bad. Works good, smells bad.

     

    I have never seen sled dogs wearing any type of sun protection. They mushers wear eye protection but never the dogs. I think their fur provides some measure of protection against non-image forming light that reflects off the snow.

     

    I forgot my sunglasses once on a hood climb. I summited without sunglasses but when I got back to the car I was in pain for the night. The thing that worries me now is that I have increased my chances to get a nice cataract later in life. Something to look forward to I guess.

  15. I think we should close Mt. Hood to climbing completely. That would solve the PR problem. All the media attention grabbing stories are coming from Hood. It's a gumby magnet. I'm only half-kidding.

     

    Yeah, it is a magnet.

     

    For some strange reason people do not give Hood a much respect as a higher mountain. Beats the hell out of me why. I guess it's just natural selection.

     

    What needs to be done is a press release that clarifies the specualtion going around. This needs to come from a credible organization, such as PMR (good for more donations), Mazamas, The Mountaineers, AAI, etc...

     

    But they seem to be very quiet on this issue. Why?

  16. anyone have recommendations on a lighter that can stand up to wind and rain?

     

    Colibri Extreme II Wind-Resistant Lighter

     

    Colibri Sting Lighter

     

    Colibri Riptide Wind-Resistant Lighter

     

    Wow, those are expensive lighters. I had no idea.

     

    I got a bic mini three pack for $3.50 at wallgreens just before I headed out. It was a little windy on the mt but after several tries, it lit and I lit my stove with it.

     

    I also don't trust piezo ignition lighters above sea level. I like the mechanical flintwheel on the bic mini.

    And there are a few safety matches on me, just in case the bic mini dies.

  17. I want an AK AK gun. I've always wanted to shoot down a strafing fighterplane. And a buffalo from a galloping appaloosa with a Winchester 30 30. And sink a submarine with a depth charge.

     

    Those are my three wishes. That is all.

     

    You can get all that if you live outside of California.

     

    I would not get the AK if I lived in N. America.

     

    I would get an M-16 variant that can handle the most available caliber in that area. NATO 5.56mm would be it. You can also get them in 5.56mm/.223 chamber that can handle the millitary and civillian versions of the round.

     

    Small, lightweight cartridge, accurate at human fighting distances, round cost, body armor penetrating projectiles, hunting for edible animals, protection from large predators, etc.. many advantages. Probably the best fit for N. America in the coming Great Social Upheval scenario.

     

    There will also be lots of easily available spare parts.

     

    Guns don't kill guns, guns kill people.

     

     

  18. J Forensic Sci. 1979 Jul;24(3):543-53.

     

    "Paradoxical undressing" in fatal hypothermia.

     

    * Wedin B,

    * Vanggaard L,

    * Hirvonen J.

     

    The phenomenon called paradoxical undressing has been described from 33 cases of hypothermia collected from Swedish police reports. The cases were almost evenly distributed with regard to sex, age, and geographical distribution. The cases occurred more frequently in open land although cases from town areas were also found. Most incidents were recorded from November to February at low ambient temperatures, although cases were also reported at temperatures above 0 degree C. Arteriosclerosis and chronic alcoholism were important concomitant illnesses, the latter being frequent in middle-aged men. Epilepsy, diabetes, and pregnancy were present in single cases. Ethanol and other drugs were present in 67% of the males and in 78% of the females, ethanol predominating in men and various psychotropic agents in women. The mean blood ethanol concentration in males was 0.16% and in females, 0.18%. Most frequent findings at necropsy were purple spots or discoloration on the extremities, pulmonary edema, and gastric hemorrhages. It is concluded that paradoxical undressing might be explained by changes in peripheral vasoconstriction in the deeply hypothermic person.

     

     

    <<>>

     

     

     

    Scratch climbing with women then.

  19. http://www.survivaltopics.com/health-and-safety/paradoxical-undressing/

     

    Victims of even slight hypothermia often exhibit altered states of judgment, which in mountaineering circles is known as being "cold stupid". One common but especially bizarre behavior of hypothermia victims is a conundrum known as "paradoxical undressing".

     

    As you may know, the general causes of hypothermia are a decrease in body heat production, increase in the loss of body heat, and the inability of the body to regulate its core temperature.

     

    I'm gonna start climbing with women.

  20. How long of an iceaxe is appropriate for a dog?

     

    Long enough to skewer the dog and still hold the axe over a fire and not get your hands burnt.

     

    It's breed dependent.

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