moronbros

danke!

-89 huh? son of a.. The last boat I saw with a rating like that was a trimaran up in Anacortes. We got to see it broach at about 17 knots. One of the hulls snapped off and they were scraping it off the bottom of the bay the next week. It's rad to sail against boats like that. the wrecks are unreal. People must be nuts to point it toward Hawaii without a chute! I just wouldn't have the patience. I'd laugh my ass off if a sailing TR showed up on supertaco tomorrow. hmm..wonder who did that?

We actually did it with 3 and it worked out well. =) It's called hyperbole =P

I usually take something really expensive so I can donate it to the mountain gods. It's always important expensive stuff that I lose. So they climbed up to a high point and couldn't downclimb? like a kitten in a tree? meow that is one hellofa story.

There is only one SuperCrack© and it's located in Indian Creek. I know the answer to that one: eight #3 C4 cams, two #2 C4 cams, and two draws. =P

YOU PASSED A CAL 20? holy shitballs. I've got a cal 25 and I'm not sure if I'd single-hand it to Maui. kickass! I'd bring my chute though.. Nice to be on a boat that slides along at 17! Shit, you even get a real tiller and not one of those dumb wheels. Maybe you can get worked with weather helm here and there but that boat sounds pretty balanced. I'm sure it was rad feeling the tiller humming when you were beating upwind with the sails trimmed correctly. Sucks to hear you got nailed by that squall and lost standing rigging. Those things are $pricey$. What did you do with the main at that point? you just reef it a bunch to reduce the sail area and get it down out of the way? I've dealt with top-of-the-mast hijinks in the Rosario Strait in 35 knots before and that was enough of a clusterfuck. Good to hear nobody got hurt. Sweet TR on this one. and might I ask..what does that wicked thing rate?

Yeah Juan! Haven't heard from you in a while. Nice job on the climb guys, and good thing Juan was with you. He's your best bet if things get ugly and someone has to wrestle a grizzly. You left *all* your doubles at rap stations? yikes!

the biggest problem is that it still lacks the ability to do two way comms with rescuers. Once the call goes out, all they know is "something is wrong" and have no idea whether of not it's life-threatening or a false alarm or what. It is a useful first step though.

you might consider the avalanche handbook from mountaineers press. I supplemented what I've learned about weather a bit with that book. Weather is a huge factor in assessment of avalanche conditions and it's fun to learn about it in a context that is useful to me as a snowboarder/mountaineer.

Yeah. We used a bolt, a rubber washer, and some seal-all. That did the trick. If we would have caught them in the act, there would have been a ROYAL RUMBLEEEEEEE!!

not sure what to do about the pics but.. I climbed the NW Face this weekend with some friends. We parked right off Chilliwack Lake Rd. at the gate (thanks for the heads-up BTW). http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3030/2800875080_5bc8ca96b4.jpg?v=0 The gate is right in the pull off from chilliwack lake road and I talked with a lady there that had a key. She said the blasting company locks it whenever they please. bastards. And yes, I mapped out about 5-6 KM from the gate to the "trailhead" that starts into the woods. The walk sucks! Just about 1km before the former parking lot, there's a bridge that got worked. It's a total mess. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3259/2798273707_cecafd4fc7.jpg?v=0 I'm killing myself knowing that I could have brought a mountain bike. It's the most pristine beat-in logging road I've ever been on up to the washout. It would have been rad to ride a bike past the gate and stash it at the former parking area. Oh and by the way, some asshole decided to siphon my gas while I was parked off Chilliwack Lake Road. Watch out. Those mouth-breathers up there will do anything for a liter or two. We fixed it though. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3067/2806379806_2fb2a46f30.jpg?v=0

I've recently found that by adding a small (like a teaspoon) amount of creatine powder to my cytomax or whatever I put in my water - it allows me to retain a little more water in my body before getting rid of it. The end result is that you can fight the fatigue that you'd get the day after by storing more water in your muscle tissue. It's also good to use on the drive home or when hydrating after a climb for this same reason.

I've been seeing a lot of Triumph TRs lately and I know a few people that have climbed it recently. I noticed that nobody is using the South Face rap route. There's a seriously fun (and way faster) steep rappel route off the south side. It avoids having to deal with rope-eaters on low angle terrain of the ridge. nice job!

that sucks they got out a phone call but didn't give the rescuers their exact location. Perhaps they didn't know it exactly. Hopefully they make themselves really visible. I could see how an epic could begin once one person drops a bag full of gear. That's lame for anyone. And why would they be going out there on such a crappy weather week?

wicked send! Jared looked like he was roughed up by a gang of angry bears. That is quite the "day climb" if you ask me. good lord. Yeah this is particularly good beta. Jared told me about it and I smacked my forehead, much like you must have done the moment you guys realized the raps were set with a 70. That would seriously take all the jelly out of my donut. I hear you saw Ines on the summit. Was the guy who bolted the rap route climbing with her or something? Not sure how many people go out there with a 70m rope to begin with, but I can see this happening over and over again now that it's bolted like that. bummer that they're giving out beta saying it's doable with a 60.

outdated techniques? You have to be kidding me! A dulfersitz is faster than a rap in low angle terrain. A hip belay is quick on the terrain ascending. It's called improvisation and no one technique is better than the other.

I forgot to mention - the second pitch of the gendarme- the wide one- still has a nice fixed BD #4. bring a # 4 of your own and scoot it up a few feet and you're set. I wasn't aware that someone died rapping off that. that sucks.

Climbed the complete north ridge last weekend with three friends. We woke up with 1 inch of snow and rime ice on us at "the notch"..which is, in my, opinion one of the plushest bivies I've seen on a mountain like that. no snow anywhere on the route. the stuart glacier is passable but we skirted below it. water everywhere until you get to the base of the ridge. after that, next water is from ingalls creek! you need to fill up many water bottles before you get on the ridge! there are two rusty pop can tabs with 1/4 inchers and a balanced huge rock with a bunch of tat hanging off it. that's your rap anchor off into the gendarme bypass. personally, all I can think of when I see that crap hanging off that percariously perched rock is "sharkfin accident". it looks dangerous and it bugs the shit out of me. I don't care what anyone says. maaaaan that gendarme bypass gully is chossy/dripping water/falling apart! I suggest attacking the gendarme. heck, just bring some bigger cams and aid the thing. whatever. it is so worth it. the simul climbing above it is rad.

sweet jeebus, that's a lot of snow still up on the N side. Were you clanking around on ice or was it corn still? nice job up der

Sounds like that instructor was building a pretty bad foundation. I'd probably make sure they followed up with all the others that received this instruction. The students should be re-taught what to do, or even bettter, your points should be used as an example of what not to do.

I haven't been in the chimney on Prusik. I hear it's bad in its own way. WTF is the deal with "5.9+" or "5.9 chimney"? It drives me nuts to see these numbers. I don't trust ratings one bit once they obtain a + or a "offwidth" classification. We need to switch to the euro (severity) scale! Here are my ratings, in order of difficulty from easiest to hardest. 1. lower fifth 2. 5.7 3. 5.9 handcrack 4. 5.7 chimney 5. 5.11 6. 5.10+ 7. 5.9+ and 5.9 offwidth 8. slide alder

actually the stat from the accidents book states more happen on ascent... Man I don't know why I'd ever be without a knife!

sweet topic btw. This is very useful! If I'm going the samich route I make sure its good stuff. Almond butter and honey. Goes straight to your head. Use tortilla/bagel/bread whatever

kickass! I'm even more stoked to go on this climb. My buddy and I spent the night out there too. We were up at about 7,200 feet over by colchuck balanced rock - on the cliffs right above assblaster pass. We both had thin softshell jackets and pants, you guys were smart and brought puffies at least! I checked the temps that night and it got down to the mid 40's where we were. I'm guessing that where you guys were it was about 5 or so degrees cooler. That will be the last time I shiver my ass off for a while. I'm carrying a emergency bivy or wearing a puffy. It's so damn worth it. Especially with north-facing routes. Nice job fellas OH and one more thing - did you make use of axes or crampons for the approach?

Luckily, us cascade climbers have the proper bushwhack training to take us all over the world. According to this guide , we were on a route rated at about Grade 1, BW3+. Compared to other routes this was tame, but it still sucks no matter how long you're in it.