olymand

Thanks for the great TR. heading up in a week, rethinking camping...looks like boston basin maybe completely snow covered still. perhaps better as a long day trip?

Great pictures. Thanks.

Trip: Black Peak - NE Ridge Date: 7/10/2013 Trip Report: Scott and I decided to take a leisurely overnight trip to Black Peak. Jim Nelson's description sounded like just our cup of tea. At Rainy Pass, we chatted with a solo climber who had turned around at the start of the rock, owing to its apparent steepness. He reported having issues with a frisky goat at Wing Lake. The goat had charged, and he was forced to climb a tree. Indeed, we had some issues with the [img:left]http://[/img] goat,nicknamed "Billy" by our predecessor, and we worked hard to keep him at a distance. We were very careful with our food and our pee, but he was very persistant. We tried to keep him at a distance by making noise and throwing a few light stones in his direction. The incident in the Olympics last year was certainly in our thoughts.. Took 4 leisurely hours to get to Wing Lake, easy to knock off one hour--two if day tripping. Left camp at 730, started climbing the rock at 10. Again, we were definitely "on vacation." There are some moat issues, severe overhangs. loose rock at the first half, but not too bad with just two of us. We didnt' know the route, but took the time to find the easiest way to the ridge. Great Ridge! Flat rocks like a two foot sidewalk... some solid fun pitches in the second half. We did it ass backwards-pitched the early loose stuff and simuled the second half. better to short rope and scramble the first half traverse stuff... summit at 430. Again, no speed records, but we were having a whee of a time in the sunshine...Left the summit at 5, back at camp at 730. Lots of scree surfing and class 3-4 downclimbing. Note to self: stay right longer and enjoy more soft snow and less scree. On our way out of camp we met 3 climbers headed up the scramble route with plans to camp on the summit. We watched them disappear into the gloamin' without the slightest trace of envy. Said goodbye to Billy the not-really-a-goat at 8, back at the car at 11. I packed my headlamp and had to do the bunny hop with Scott by the time we hit Heather Pass. Great trip Gear Notes: Boots, odd nuts, 1,.75,.5 Cams, (could have used a bit more pieces) 5 doubles, 5 singles. 40 m rope. crampons, axe, helmet. Approach Notes: Great trail to Heather Pass, some snow patches before Wing Lake, Wing Lake covered with snow, just open enough at the edges for water.

thanks for the report, much appreciated.

actually lost this skiing in april, maybe it's turned up now that it's melted out. bd raven pro 70 cm.

Saw Jiri's pix on facebook. Looked like a fair piece of work and a little bit of everything. saw that you rapped down a bit. was that on ice cliff glacier? Dan G.

Nice report. There is a lot to do down there isn't there?

thanks for the great report. thinking of going up next week and it is good to know what conditions are like. sounds like snow lake should be okay without a shovel.

Trip: The Tooth - South Face Date: 5/24/2010 Trip Report: Looking for something we could do with a late start that wasn't Leavenworth or Mailbox, Shannon suggested a quick run up The Tooth. We left the car at 815 and were back a little after 5. Snow was soft and still deep from the upper Alpental lot on. A bit of postholing in the Talus field in Great Scott Basin, but pretty solid snow and someone had recently put in steps and a glissade track. I had been concerned about loose snow slides. A trip up Commonwealth basin recently proved that there was still some consolidation needed to make for save travel, particularly in warm weather. However, my were unfounded. This was a big improvement. some small sloughs from the cliffs, but the clouds kept things relatively solid through the afternoon. There was the start of crust in the Basin, showing that there had been some overnight freezing. Overall, the route was in great shape and it appears that even with the recent snow, there has been lots of consolidation. 11 am found us at the base of the climb with blue skies and sunshine enough to suck us into the first pitch. Clouded up pretty fast after that and we had overcast skies and a smattering of rain on the return. Plenty of snow on the route. Enough to make it a tad hard to keep the boot soles dry. Still, easy climbing, mild weather, and we were down quickly. Had the hill to ourselves. Well, couple of camp robbers kept us company. A bit sticky on the way down, we did manage a couple of nice butt lides, and a terrific single run from the top of the couloir down to the creek. Seems like i am always pleasantly surprised by this climb. Expectations are low, and the rewards were much. Spectacular setting, fun easy climbing, and good company. http://picasaweb.google.com/dangreenfield3/20100524?authkey=Gv1sRgCJj82pGw38G7LA&feat=directlink

fwiw, following on that route is pretty sketchy affair, the down climbs have the disadvantage of lots of slack and lots of ledges.don't like that route much. btw, does anyone know if there is a reasonable walk-off/scramble on ingalls? i've yet to find one, but thought maybe on the northwest side?

Nice TR. Went with the mounties last year and found quite a bergshrund in may. we rapped off the summit which was fun. conditions were lots easier looks like and we had a pretty good glissade from high pass, and from pineapple. Sounds like you had quite a slog.--Steven, we did the tooth this winter if you remember.

Amazing trip. We were up there in July with lots of sun. Amazing how different it looks in fall. You guys made amazing time. We did a high camp above spider meadows and it still took most of a day to make it over to Chiwawa and back.

Any snow in Aasgard pass? I was thinking of trying a one day of Prusik, hoping there's an easy slide out.

Nice TR. Didn't you camp at the flat bivy sites right below winnie's slide? I remember getting right onto the snow in the morning. Maybe less snow for you? We had mostly just steep snow on Winnies and HH. We didn't have a mote under winnie's either. When we did it, we had lots of snow (2 mile hike to the Trailhead from the Baker parking lot.)Lost the trail in the meadow and were sloshing around for quite a while. That was a long day. Love that route.

i will try and scrape some pix up from my partner--we were in clouds and snow or hail almost all the time--so no views.