AlpineMonkey

How did they try to re-create the accident? Drop a huge weight off the cam or something? I tried to show it in the picture of the #4, but I bent the lobe by about 30 degrees. I really abused the cam and it just wouldn't break, just took a new permanent form.

Rummors of a brand new C4 stuck in the top of Air Guitar inspired me today to rap down and check it out, sure enough, rumors were true. What started as a get me a free cam operation, turned into me pissed off with a hammer and chissel and 45 minutes of beating the shit out of it as hard as I could, when it wouldn't come out. I thought since I was there that I might as well remove the old #2, which came out after about 4 swings of the hammer. If you want eaither back, let me know, Ill mail them for beer or money.

It's good style to knock down loose rock so us future climbers can have more fun. I like reports like this one.

This is just one wall of many. Its exactly 250 feet tall from the middle. I need to find more partners because my fiance is tired of me dragging her through brush every weekend. -Craig

If its a red one that you found on one of the two crack pitches above libary ledge it was mine. My partner couldn't get it out at the time and it started snowing so I told her to just leave it so I could get off that damn wall. I am sure I could have got it out in 2 seconds. Toped out in the chicken heads were covered in a white slippery dusting. This was from late april.

Also, If you know about the exact location of this place, as I have been telling my friends how incredible it is (probably to just get some sucker up there), please don't mention it on here. I have some belonging which I left below the wall and I want them to be there when I return. Thanks for respecting that.

I have found some pretty cool places and I am looking for someone who might have some interest. This is in the leavenworth area. I have the 6th through the 16th off. If your interested, it requires lots of hiking, bushwacking, and ticks. I have done one route on the wall, the other routes will take some cleanning to clear the cracks of moss, but overal outstanding rock climbing comparable to snow creek wall routes. You must have a minimum of 3 days off, but I plan to be up there for about 8 days. I am posting a picture to try to spark some interest. If it looks like cool climing to you, let me know and will hook up. I perferably want to climb with someone I know or know of. -Craig

We were climbing "Bum Rush The Show" at Frenchman Coulee.

I used to hardly ever put a helmet on, but this year my fiance and I have decided to start wearing them everywhere when climbing. Today as I was frantically pulling over the top of a climb my foot hold fell away and I looked down to see a rock the size of my hand falling straight for Denise. I yelled, "rock" just in time to see her curl up into a little ball and the rock bounce directly off the top of her helmet. What could have been a very bad situation turned into something we were instantly laughing about. Helmets are awsome.

Yeah, I saw it on Amazon.com and didn't want to buy it if it reffered to Peshastin Pinnacles, because sometimes the craggs on Bluett Pass are named interchably with Peshastin. I bought the book, I hope the book is cool. They haven't made two many copies of them because I can't find them anywhere else.

Also, if anyone has Climbing Magazine - Swauk Pinnacles, Basecamp (114)24, there is a map showing the location of a bunch of climbs. I would be thankfull to get a copy of this map and would pay for shipping and copy charges, I used to have one but lost it.

Does anyone know about a book called, "Swauk Pinnalces: A Climbing Guide" by Dale Boyle? I can't find any refference when I google it it, but I do know it has existed. My question is, does this book reffer to the craggs onto of Bluett Pass, or does it reffer to the Peshastin Pinnacles?

Awsome, thats what I wanted to hear.

I wish that once I bought a piece of gear it would be good for the rest of my life, but I know that isn't the case, of course. Today I was unloading my pack and checking out some of my cams. On some of them the teeth or almost completly gone. Do the teeth make that much difference? Is it bad to use a cam with no teeth? Some of my cams have almost no teeth and are only 4 yrs old, where as I have climbed with older folks who still use about 20 yr old cams, wich have been re-slung. Does anyone know anything about cam teeth, any comments? Of course a manufator would say, "retire the cam." It seems that it would be incredibly easy to take a small grinder and put some notches right back in.

Went and climbed the first pitch of a route on Kloochman today before bailing because the wind chill was extreme. At least to where we got to, the rock was not as bad as its talked up to be. What we climbed was more solid then routes I've done on Goose Egg.

I can't skip class. I don't want to go into Stuart now. Got out today and the weather is very unstable.

If anyone wants to give a route a go on Koochman or Goose Egg, send me a pm with your phone number. I'll check back later this afternoon. I dont want to do Commandho Pillar or RL, I try not to repeat alpine like routes. -Craig

If anybody want's to do a route up there tomorrow I'm trying to find someone. Send me a pm, I'll check it later in the afternoon. I want to try a route on Koochman (butchered spelling probably) rock.

If anyone on here wants to do something, send me a pm tonight. I only want to climb with people I have met before, even if it was just a whats up at some crag or something. We could hike in Friday and climb on Saturday, or do a day shot on Saturday, whatever. Send me a pm tonight.

glad you didn't encounter any crux dinos

If you perfer not to call, send them an email (or do both). enforcement-web@dfw.wa.gov

Just a reminder to what’s happening. For those of you who do care, please take action. The facts are that bikers, for at least the past four weekends have been riding around on the coulee floor, south of sunshine wall and it is a big deal. I walked across the floor last weekend and their tracks criss-cross the entire coulee. The damage from these past few weeks will take many years to heal. I'm not a green hippie environmentalist, but it is an issue. Signs are clearly posted saying "No Vehicles Allowed." Those signs are there for a reason, it is indeed a wildlife area. There are areas set aside for dirt bikers to ride not far from here, but Frenchman Coulee is not one of them. The lock on the gate has been cut and the fence on the other side of the road which gives access to the north coulee has been cut and striped down. If you climb at the coulee, please do call the fish and wildlife, either on the weekend and leave a message or on the week day to speak to someone. It to bad that this is happening.

Sobo, we did a rap in from the top, but I later learned, once I was down there that you can traverse down to the shore on the right of the climb and do about a 10 foot class 4 traverse above the water to access the climb, probably much easier then what we did. Its on the W. Side of the rocks as you suspected.

basalt

Trip: Goose Egg Mountain - Commando Pillar - Grade III - 5.11B Date: 3/12/2008 Trip Report: Once again, I have found goods other than Vantage. An entertaining, sustained multipitch route up the North Side of Goose Egg Mountain, The Commando Pillar – Grade III, 5.11B. As usual the highlights included not one other person, beautiful scenery, and engaging climbing. A critique might say, STFU Craig, for these places have been relatively unknown and only explored by a select few. Perhaps this very post will inspire hoards of people to Goose Egg and one will have to stand in line to climb the Commando Pillar and the walls other fine routes. But I assure those critiques that there is plenty of rock out there and plenty of places to explore. I’m just trying to throw some things out there to loosen the load on some of the more popular crags. If you’re looking for a little early season alpine adventure, I suggest checking out the east wall on Goose Egg. Gear Notes: Approximatly 15 quickdraws, Gear to 3 inches