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gertlush

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Posts posted by gertlush

  1. I was leaning towards brakes for my bindings but I can't seem to find any for sale for the "speed" dynafits. They all seem to be for the comfort or vertical models.

     

    Is there actually a difference in the heel piece which would mean I couldn't mount it? Wildsnow refers to the speed brakes as just screwing onto the baseplate where with the vertical/comfort you have to fiddle around with the heel unit.

     

    However neither REI or MEC or teh google seem to list brakes specifically for the "speed" bindings...nor does dynafits website...so back to leashes eh?

  2. I think Dave Roberts is a bit more expressive & revealing about motivations, about his failures & fears. I also got the Boardman-Tasker omnibus recently & that writing also seemed to have more depth... however both of those can be a bit wordy at times, I like how House's writing is fairly lean & straightforward.

     

    I think it's maybe just the author's different styles. Beyond the Mountain is, I think, a really excellent description of the actual climbing but it doesn't feel so much a story as a bunch of separate stories. Worth picking up though and everybody has different tastes.

  3. I was into it at first but then after about a dozen chapters just got bored. It reads like a shopping list of climbs he did & I couldn't tell whether he was on North Twin, Nanga Parbat or wherever after a while.

     

    Also it borrows a bit too heavily from the agonized, Mark Twight-esque existential style of climbing writing for my taste.

     

    anyway flame on :battlecage:

  4. Don't you mean in 2112?

    prog_Rush.jpg

     

    Ahh my favorite LP from jr high days. :tup:

     

    I think this Rush may have to be 100 years early. Unless scientists hurry up and allow you to download your brain onto a chip then buy a new body.

     

    You must have read this? If not you should! :tup:

     

    Altered%20Carbon%20(limited%20edition).jpg

     

     

  5. Trip: Tantalus/Dione - Tantalus - N. Ridge/Dione - Standard route

     

    Date: 8/1/2009

     

    Trip Report:

    Dropped off at the col on Friday night...staggered out to the road on Sunday. In hindsight a heli pickup may not have been a bad idea....

     

    Pretty straightforward scrambling on Tantalus plus a little roped stuff when the exposure got too much. Found the descent on Tantalus a bit convuluted. Stayed too high & we were level with the Witch's Tooth, then rapped down a gully all the way to ledges at the bottom which were full of rocks. Had to climb heinous gully and loose rock then traverse all the way out the base of Dione before getting on snow.

     

    Did Dione and walked out on Sunday...that sucked. My knees still hurt.

     

    Terrain_3_1.JPGTightrope_4_1.JPGDione_6_1.JPG

     

    Gear Notes:

    One axe, we brought two but didn't use the second. The pickets were handy.

     

    Approach Notes:

    Heli - $195 all in for drop off at col on North ridge.

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