hoodie

Crackman, I definitely owe you a beverage. Sweet step kicking! I waved to you from the Spur. Our game plan was to approach from Timberline via skis, hit the north side and descend the south side. Actually shorter and less vert than from Tilly Jane trail. Anyhow, we didn't see a straight forward way down to the Elliot from the Spur so we traversed the Chisolm trail and into the Left Gully. Very happy to take advantage of your steps through the soft sections. Very nice solo. That start you did looks really cool. Some pics from our day... Thanks again!

Neat! Must have just mist you guys. We were there Sept 2-11. The snow pics remind me that I have to check that place out on skis.

This is a great tale from Oregon climbing history I found while researching Wolf Rock this fall. http://www.richardsnotes.org/archives/2004/07/07/a-climbing-story/ The roll call in the comments at the bottom is awesome.

This was great beta a couple days ago, but a few things had us scratching our heads. Some edits below. The route starts a couple hundred feet of main arching corner/roof system at two bolts at chest height. P1 - 5.9+ - Head straight up following 5 bolts and the occasional gear placement to a belay at a small stance. P2 - 5.9 - From the belay head up and right past bolts and up to a right facing corner, climb the loose corner to a belay ledge. P3 - 5.8 - Climb up and slightly left clipping bolts to lower angled terrain head up and then left following bolts and gear to a small belay ledge. Look far to your left. It could be easy to miss this belay. P4 - 5.9+ - Head up and right on easy 5th class climbing then up to the crux moves below a roof head left to the belay at a small stance. P5 - 5.10d - From the belay traverse out and right to a blind reach around the corner (crux) and then head up to a hanging belay. Short pitch ~20m. P6 - 5.11b - Head straight up past bolts and and a fixed KB make and awkward move (crux) up and then right. Continue rightward traverse on handrail under roof. Belay is located shortly after traverse. Another short pitch ~25m. A possible belay immediately around corner and up. Another one 50' higher. P7 - 5.4 - From the belay head up and left following weaknesses looking for a bolted anchor. P8 - Easy 5th - Head up weaknesses to the ridge, then follow ridge crest West to summit of Wolf Rock. 1/4 mile of low 5th class climbing. Gear Notes: Medium set stoppers Single set of cams from tips to #3 Extra couple cams in finger size Lots of runners Our 12 felt a couple short Approach Notes: Approach: Drive until you are basically under the route. Bushwack up to route(5 min). Descent: From summit head West passing gullies on the South. Take the third gully (steepish). Follow trail back to road (30min). Third gully still makes no sense to me. Follow the ridge till you run out of ridge and then angle down into what is kinda of the 2nd big bowl like gully west of the true summit. Going further involves creative exposed route finding. Following the bowl down gets into drainage gullys that actually have some of the most solid rock you've seen all day. Descend these then wrap around to skiers left on trail. Some pics: Looking for solidity in the loose corner on P2. Nice rock and exposure on P4. The classic shot. P5 Looking back at P6.

Gear located and returned. Thanks Paul!

Left a two piece anchor on Sabre 8/30/10, 100' off the ground. A "situation" arose and return to the ground was necessary. Booty rules would say finders keepers, but if you care to return it drop me a PM. I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

In response to a few posts... Elliot Headwall from Snowdome. I guess nothing really jumped out at me as fatty when I passed below it coming down Sunshine, so I neglected to take a picture when closer. Hope this helps. The Spur and North Face environs. And to Marc, I'd say the upper step is maybe 3. The entrance to the left gully looks like a pretty good pillar now, probably harder than right.

Trip: Hood - NF Right Date: 11/4/2009 Trip Report: Good to go as of yesterday. Good smears coming in to the left of left gulley. Entrances to gulleys. Schrund easily crossed on right. Looking up at 1st step. Looking up at 2nd step. Calves on fire. The view from Snowdome. News of the Weird. Elk tracks on top of Snowdome.

Trip: Mt Hood - Coe Icefall Date: 7/16/2007 Trip Report: Went up the Coe on decent ice and suspect snow. When it was steep, it was usually solid ice, but a couple times it was 60+ deg. slush that was lossa fun. Route was straight forward till the end where the last bridges were barely there. They will be gone soon, but you could probably make a traverse out right and get around the final cracks. We thought of going above the Snowdome, but as another party climbing Sunshine found out, you would have to really, really, really want it to go above Snowdome. Your options are 1) Go directly up the middle of the upper Elliot ie. the garbage chute for the Elliot Headwall 2)Climb directly up Anderson rock ie. Pure choss joy or 3)Traverse down from the Snowdome across the top of the Coe Icefall and gain the bare Cathedral ridge at about 9200' ie. High mileage pure choss garbage chute joy. Short version: Coe is still fun, route finding will be interesting, stop at the Snowdome. The Coe from Cloud Cap road.

North face today. Doable with a single tool, on snow all the way. Little gully that links the lower to upper portions of the face (not visible in this pic) could melt out before too long and make things more interesting. BTW, turns on the upper face were very very nice this morning. Nice and smooth w/o suncupping till you hit the lower glacial-ish portion.

WINDOWS DOWN!!!! More of that day.

I guess this no longer a "current search", but here are some pictures of my experiences up there during last week's search. Apologies for the watermark hack job, but the media poachers are rampant. Flickr Pics Also, some vids up on YouToob Moderators, feel free to wipe this if this is off your intended topic.

In case anyone is curious what its like to be just above the Pearly Gates while a Chinook is hovering just above the summit, check this... Hang on Iain!! aDHYKk_LL0s

Nicely done gents! Heres a couple pics to give a sense of the commitment (very) over on that wall. Climb starts lower left. Max and Jens.