elaine

I don't know which ledge, Hemp. I can ask, but I'm not sure if Tonia knows the route names. When I saw them out there last Spring on Keith's wildflower tour, one was visible from the meadow below.

I really had to start a new thread.... I got word from the Natural Resources Gal ( Tonia) at Clackamas County that the monitoring by folks from the Audobon Society say the chicks look to be about 5 weeks old. They expect that they will be fledging in the next week or so. Monitoring will continue after fledging to see if or how "disturbed" the chicks and parents are with people around them. I'm crossing my fingers, and so is Tonia, that the June 27th clean up and trail building event will still take place. We're not sure yet about the climbing afterwards, but we're hoping we can. Even Tonia is hoping for us! I think cancelling the last event on May 23rd was important enough ( unfortunately) because of not knowing age of the chicks. They probably didn't have their wings, nor concept of flight, and could have fallen off the ledge if spooked. Some good news in all of this, I guess.

Maybe some background info that folks didn't know on this peregrine stuff out at the Madrone...( and Smith, too) Two peregrine studies/surveys/observations were done by Bob Sallinger ( Audobon Soc). One was in 1998 and the other was in 2006. No evidence peregrines ( no swath at the top of a cliff, no poop, nothing) was found. We heard and saw them last Spring when Keith organized a wildflower tour. They obviously seem to be back again this year. On a different note, but interesting nonetheless, peregrines closed the upper portions of the Picnic Lunch Wall at Smith last year. You could do single pitch climbing only. No peregrines out there this year. In fact, no Golden Eagle chicks either. This is the first year in about 20 years that the Golden Eagles have not mated. They often close the Monument Area. The female keeps up almost 12 nests in and around Smith and the adjacent BLM land. They have not seen her in some time and fear that she might be dead. All of the Golden Eagle info was provided by the SRSP Rangers and Raptor volunteers at the clean up two weekends ago. So maybe the Peregrines will ( hopefully) move on from the Madrone. There are plenty of chossy cliffs in Clackamas County that they can take residence on.

Joseph and others- The Natural Resources gal, Tonia, spotted them with another Clackamas Co official. That's who "they" is.

Even though the Madrone Wall is still not open to any kind of recreation, they spotted at least 3 chicks ( possibly 5) out there over the weekend. It was the presence of the adult falcons out there on Thursday of last week that cancelled the trail-building party on Sunday. Clackamas County will have someone go in and see how old they are. The age of the successful eyrie right now will determine if the June event will still take place. There is talk of a monitoring program out there, but that will be awhile. More to come soon.

Thanks, Joseph, Hemp, and Bill. I received a note from the Natural Resources gal who has been helping us along with planning these clean ups. A County Americorp employee / intern was out on Thursday. He was headed into the open meadow area with a chainsaw to clear some of the downed trees and such. The saw wasn't even buzzing and he heard the distinct cacking of the peregrine(s). What an ironic week for us MWPC folks. We got word from an involved citizen who attended a forestry meeting within the last two weeks with the County. She's part of a CPO, and Dan Zinzer, the Head of County Parks, said that the Madrone Wall was now being moved up to Category 1 Status within the County. Meaning that it was being viewed as an equal priority as their other current parks/ park projects. They've NEVER said that before. We're just afraid that this is going to be a much longer process now.

Keith just called me and told me about it being cancelled. Keith and Clackamas Co had not heard or seen peregrines earlier this Spring, but I know for sure they were out there last Spring - we heard and saw them on the wildflower tour. A Wildlife Biologist / Natural Resources person with the County observed them recently this week. All volunteers would have received a reminder e-mail about the clean up anyways, so the e-mail from REI is no joke. Sorry folks. June's event is not certain with the fledging of any peregrine chicks. This sucks.

I would suggest contacting REI. Sorry folks, but REI isn't assuming that those 100 folks are not planning on showing up. The event has been advertised for some time. Folks might just have to wait until the next June event. I don't think that anyone will be without a climbing partner - there will be plenty of volunteers ready to climb afterwards.

Bill - I'll miss seeing your mug out there! Penelope is a cute dog. I don't believe that dogs will be allowed because of people working with heavy and sharp tools. I'd hate to have your friend sign up to volunteer and then get turned away when his dog was brought on the property. Thanks for asking.

Only 19 volunteer spots left for the Madrone trailbuilding, clean, climb and BBQ event. Next event is June 27th. Go to www.rei.com/clackamas to register to volunteer.

Volunteers needed!! Do you live in the Portland / Beaverton Area? Do you get excused from work to volunteer in a school? My school's Field Day is on Friday June 11th and I'm renting Climb Max's portable climbing walls. Field Day hours at Springville School are from 8:45-11:00am and 12:35-2:50 pm. Our school is located just east of PCC Rock Creek. Climb Max will provide a couple of employees, but having another crew of folks throughout the day would be ideal to help with getting on harnesses and switching out belays for a break. There is an online background check for school volunteers. Send me a PM if you are interested. Thanks for reading!

Thanks, Bill. The 3 dates were planned in conjunction with the County Yes, dirt is easier to move around in the Springtime. A small group will be headed out this week to flag the trails. Volunteers will not be able to just show up without registering through REI. See you there!

Hello Madrone Wall Supporters! The forward progress continues! We are excited to announce the first of 3 trail building parties. With the help of a $5000 grant from REI ( Access Fund is pending), we will be moving some earth around in the coming months. So be prepared to get dirty! Our group will be working with the Mazamas, Trailkeepers of Oregon, Clackamas County Natural Resources, and Climb Max on these efforts. And the best part? Clackamas County is drafting up a liability waiver that will let volunteers climb after each work party. And please don’t push the opportunity and think that the site is open to climbing. It’s not. Why? Because the site construction to support the amount of use it will get has not even begun. There is no parking lot, no bathroom, no emergency vehicle access road, and no trails have been built. Let’s just take this as a big positive and a great opportunity for those who have been waiting for so long. All volunteers MUST register through REI. Go to www.rei.com/clackamas where you will find the event on their main page. The specs are below: Meet at the Carver School before 9:00 am to carpool to the site ( 16077 SE Hwy 224) 9:00 am-1:00pm - Move some earth! Bring whatever trail building tools you have, and bring work gloves, water, sunscreen, snacks, etc. 1:00 - 2:00pm. BBQ with Climb Max on site 2:00-5:00 - Climbing 5:00pm Carpool back to Carver School. If you have actual trail building experience and think you could lead or co-lead a crew of 7-10 people, please contact Keith at kdaellenbach@att.net All participants must be 12 years or older. There will be some garbage pick up and other “lighter” tasks for those that cannot do the heavy work of building trails. Other clean and climb dates are: June 27th and September 12th. So stay tuned for future announcements. Thanks for reading! Kellie

Yes! We need help putting on stamps and mailing labels! Thanks. Keith should be there by 6:00 ( blond skinny engineering guy with glasses). He'll have 3 or so large "kinkos" boxes with him. I'll be there a little later. Thank you! Kellie

Keith is putting together another snail mail for our 1000 + supporters, and we need some help. Join us at the Lucky Lab on SE Hawthorne Tuesday April 6th starting at 6:00 pm. Keith and I will buy a couple of pitchers of beer. What's in the mailing?.... Here is a little hint....We're advertising the first of 3 trailbuilding parties out at the site with the help of REI, and one of their grants. More details will follow on this site for the future work parties, but be prepared to move some earth! And, yes, the Madrone is still posted No Trespassing.

Not sure how much crossover there is with those that climb and those that bike, but if you follow bikeportland.org at all, you'll see a story about how a neighbor in the area ( I'm guessing near the Grotto) with a bee in their bonnet who spoke up about the kids and their BMX course. Understanding that the Butte isn't the most pleasant of places to climb anyways, I hope that the management at the Grotto and ODOT don't pull the access plug on climbers, too. Both groups ( climbers and the BMX'ers), as well as some of the neighbors who live there, do help to some extent with the "other" recreational user groups of this site; the hookers, drug dealers, drunk teenage kids testing the law of gravity with their glass bottles ( and now throwing rocks at climbers), and the homeless who call the Butte home. http://bikeportland.org/2010/03/24/bmx-riders-rally-to-save-jump-trails-near-the-grotto/#more-31113

Welcome to PDX. Both places you mentioned have good route setting, but you might avoid a lot of car traffic in the afternoons by just climbing at Club Sport. Club Sport offers a flash pass with 10 visits to use in 3 months for $120.00. They often go on sale, too, or you can attend a "Boulder Dash" and buy one that they auction off for real cheap. I'm not sure if the PRG is offering such a pass. The Circuit on Macadam just north of Lake O has great Bouldering, too, and they have a punch pass.

I received an e-mail about this on Monday. The link below has actual details about the climbing restrictions. The folks at the Access Fund office in Boulder are working on this as are some local folks from Southern Oregon ( Greg Orton, Grover Shipman). You can send in your comments. From the e-mail I received, the vandalism and damage is not from climbers. This area has been a bit of a hot topic for some time. I was addressing it when I was an AF rep. The local tribes were blaming climbers for damage to the cairns. The tribes said that they were sites for vision quests. Most climbers know about cairns (those piles of balanced rocks along trails for those that don't), and I think the majority of us would just leave them alone. Discussions were held a few years ago between the tribes and the USFS, but climbers were not invited to the table. It is an area that has other uses, too, such as hiking. Chiloquin Ranger District: Williamson River Cliff Area Project The Chiloquin Ranger District is initiating a proposal to respond to the need to protect sensitive resources that have been subject to vandalism and damage over the last five years as visitors have enjoyed the area's unique features. This proposal would make six acres within the Williamson River Cliff area permanently closed to protect these sensitive resources. The remaining area outside the six acre closure would be enhanced and open to the public for current recreational opportunities. http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/frewin/projects/analyses/williamson-cliff/index.shtml

Hey, Porter- I had taken the class in 2003. I had also been sport leading for some time before taking the class. That definitely helps you, as several of my classmates had never been on the sharp end before the class. I know that they have changed the class ( for the better, I've heard). There are some really great "mentors" that you get connected with at each session and many can really help you lead some of the more challenging climbs around the area. You'll have no trouble finding a mentor in the class if you want to lead Moscow, Spiderman, Lion's Jaw, and some of the other classics at Smith. I think some folks had gone up Monkey's Face, too. Other field sessions have gone to Tieton and Horsethief ( earlier on in the class), and there are options for the whole class to go to City of Rocks and Tuolumne at the end of the class. You do get some good rock rescue skills, and they did have an "aid" day. Escaping a belay is probably something that every climber should know how to do. The class is also often small enough ( 20 or so students) that you'll get to meet some new climbing partners. I'm not a Mazama anymore, but I did have fun with it and was happy that skipped the Intermediate Class. I lost interest in the snow and ice aspect of climbing, and the ICS class had more focus on those skills.

The author of the book should be the one to comment on this, but I know that the guidebook was put on hold because of the current access issues that have been posted on this site. You can also find more info out on his carver bouldering blog.

The hearings officer approved Clackamas County to move forward and allow for a conditional use ( recreation) on a zoned timber site. This hearing happened on Oct 22nd and was another hurdle for the County to address before the Madrone could become a park. The full details are below. BEFORE THE LAND USE HEARINGS OFFICER OF CLACKAMAS COUNTY, OREGON Regarding an application by Clackamas County Parks ) F I N A L O R D E R for a conditional use permit to establish a new County park ) Casefile No. Hardscrabble Quarry / Madrone Wall Park in the Timber ) Z0522-09-C Zone. ) (Clackamas County Parks) A. SUMMARY 1. The applicant, Clackamas County Parks, requests approval of a conditional use permit to establish a new County park – Hardscrabble Quarry / Madrone Wall Park, on 43.99 acres in the Timber zone. The proposal includes parking spaces for 20 vehicles, bike parking, one vault toilet, trails for all levels of visitors from ADA to advance hikers, Madrone Wall for climbing, interpretive signs, trailhead kiosk and an improved overlook above Madrone Wall. The park will have operational hours from approximately 6 am to 9 pm, April through October and from approximately 6 am to 6 pm, November through March. The park will be open for day use only. Access to the property is from Hwy 224. a. Clackamas County Parks initiated a public concept planning process for the Hardscrabble Quarry site in spring of 2008. Public involvement included 3 public workshops, meetings with the neighbors and additional interested parties, as well as an opportunity for public comment to the Parks Advisory Board. The process was completed in early 2009 with concept plan approval by the Clackamas County Board of County Commissioners. Components of the “Concept Site Plan for Madrone Wall” park include: + New 20-foot wide gravel driveway along existing roadbed. + Eight-foot wide gravel path to connect pedestrians to the Eastbound TriMet bus stop + New gate at entrance + Gravel parking for 20 vehicles in the existing clearing at the east end of the entry driveway + Passenger drop-off at northeast portion of the parking lot + One vault toilet building near the parking lot + Loop trails will be provided for a variety of skill levels and experiences. Beginners, intermediate, and advanced expert trails are shown on the Concept Plan (Exhibit 5). Trails will typically be 4-5 ‘ wide and soft-surface (dirt or there similar compacted surface) + South of the proposed park area, a new quarter-mile ADA accessible nature trail will {be developed} to teach site visitors about the unique ecosystem of the Madrone Wall site. The accessible trial will be of a firm and stable surface (e.g. permeable pavement or compacted sub-base with crusher fines) + Three types of signs will be utilized in the park: educational signs, interpretive signs, and an entry monument. A trailhead kiosk will feature information about the park and Clackamas County Parks + Bike parking + Stairs that provide advanced access to the top of the wall + An improved overlook above the wall. + It is estimated that approximately 50-100 people (including local seniors, children, families and employees/volunteers) will use the park over the course of a day. * Park rangers from nearby Barton and Carver Parks will open and close the gate daily for use. 2. On October 22, 2009 hearings officer Kenneth Helm (the "hearings officer") conducted a public hearing to receive testimony and evidence about the application. County staff recommended approval of the application with 35 conditions of approval. Several parties testified in support of the application. There was no opposition testimony. There are no contested issues associated with this application. The applicant requested clarifying modifications to conditions 7, 13, 19 and 22. B. HEARING AND RECORD HIGHLIGHTS 1. The hearings officer received testimony at the public hearing about this application on October 22, 2009. All exhibits and records of testimony are filed with the Planning Division, Clackamas County Department of Transportation and Development. At the beginning of the hearing, the hearings officer made the declaration required by ORS 197.763. The hearings officer disclaimed any ex parte contacts, bias or conflicts of interest. The hearings officer stated that the only relevant criteria were those identified in the staff report, that participants should direct their comments to those criteria, and failure to raise all arguments may result in waiver of arguments at subsequent appeal forums. The following is a summary by the hearings officer of selected relevant testimony. a. At the hearing, County planner Sandy Ingalls summarized the staff report and the history of the subject property. Staff recommended approval of the application. b. The applicant made a short presentation and requested the following modifications to the conditions of approval: “7. Park hours of operation shall be from no earlier than 6:0 a.m. to no later than 9:00 p.m. April – October and no earlier than 6:00 a.m. to no later than 6:00 p.m. November – March.” “19. At the applicant’s discretion, a pedestrian path may be constructed along the site frontage of tax lot 3401. If built, the applicant shall design and construct improvements along the site frontage of tax lot 3401 consisting of an eight-foot wide paved pedestrian path with appropriate ADA accessible ramps at each end of the path transitioning either to Highway 224 or the site’s private road/driveway.” c. The applicants also requested that the requirements for the shared private driveway identified in conditions 13 and 22 explicitly allow for a 16 foot wide one way road with 10’ x 30’ turnouts to allow cars to pass each other. This was agreed to by the Clackamas County Department of Transportation and Development. 2. No party requested that the record be left open and the record and hearing closed on October 22, 2009. C. DISCUSSION 1. I find that the staff report identifies all of the applicable approval standards for the application and contains sufficient findings showing the application does or can comply with those standards subject to recommended conditions of approval. The hearings officer adopts the findings in the staff report as his own. 2. The Conceptual Site Plan for Madrone Wall, dated August 26, 2009 is incorporated into this decision by this reference. The site plan shall be used to assist the County in interpreting and applying the findings and conclusions of this decision, the staff report and conditions of approval. 3. I find that the applicant’s requested clarifications to the conditions of approval identified above are consistent with code requirements. With respect to the private drive or road identified in conditions 13 and 22, Robert Hixson of the Clackamas County Department of Transportation and Development agreed at the hearing that a 16 foot wide roadway would be sufficient to comply with county standards. These conditions should be interpreted to allow, among other potential configurations, for a 16 foot wide one way road with 10’ x 30’ turnouts. 4. Pursuant to the applicant’s request, the conditions of approval are modified as follows: “7. Park hours of operation shall be from no earlier than 6:0 a.m. to no later than 9:00 p.m. April – October and no earlier than 6:00 a.m. to no later than 6:00 p.m. November – March.” “19. At the applicant’s discretion, a pedestrian path may be constructed along the site frontage of tax lot 3401. If built, the applicant shall design and construct improvements along the site frontage of tax lot 3401 consisting of an eight-foot wide paved pedestrian path with appropriate ADA accessible ramps at each end of the path transitioning either to Highway 224 or the site’s private road/driveway.” “13.a. The minimum width for the driving surface shall be 16 feet with two-foot wide shoulders, resulting in an overall width of 20 feet. Minimum vertical clearance shall be 13.5 feet for the full length of the private road/driveway.” To condition 22 the following language shall be added: “This condition shall allow, at the applicant’s discretion, a 16 foot wide one way road surface with 10’ x 30’ turnouts to allow cars to pass each other consistent with Clackamas County Road Standards.” D. CONCLUSION Based on the above findings and discussion, the hearings officer concludes that conditional use application Z0522-09-C should be approved. E. DECISION Based on the findings, discussion and conclusions provided or incorporated herein and the public record in this case, the hearings officer hereby APPROVES Z0522-09-C subject to the following conditions of approval: 1. Approval is for the specific use identified in the application materials and on the submitted site plan to the extent they are consistent with the remaining conditions of approval. 2. All necessary development permits (septic, building, electrical, driveway, etc.) shall be obtained prior to any construction. All development shall comply with the development standards of the TBR district except as modified by the conditions herein. 3. Prior to any development or issuance of any development permits, the applicant shall submit a fire prevention plan in accordance with the policies Clackamas Community Wildfire Prevention Plan and the standards of ZDO Section 406.09. The plan shall be reviewed and approved by the Oregon Department of Forestry, Sandy/Boring Fire District and Clackamas County Planning Division. The plan shall address the requirements for open campfires, accumulation of dead fuels and fuel reduction, smoking and other applicable fire suppression techniques. This plan should also address any required signing or enforcement procedures necessary to carry out the plan. Signing shall be provided in the park to notify users of these requirements.

Keith attended today's hearing. In a voicemail he left me, he was one of 3 speakers this morning. Not sure how many actually attended though. All 3 spoke in support with moving forward with the "conditional use." No one spoke against. Phew! The Hearings Officer who ran today's meeting will have a decision within 2 weeks. Katie Dunham ( County Planner), stated at the end of the meeting that one of the ways to limit the construction costs is to have the road in from Hwy 224 be a 16 ft wide, single lane, with pull outs, instead of a 22 ft wide 2-lane road. This would decrease the amount of excavation, and reduce construction costs for building the gravel road in from the highway to the parking area. Keith felt that the hearing went well. More to come!

Congrats, Mike. Looking forward to getting a copy!!

Tony ( AF rep for Oregon) e-mailed me a couple of months ago and said he was addressing this.

I was just there this weekend and climbed it. Noticed that X between the 5th and 6th bolts(?), but it seemed pretty solid to me. There is some loose stuff above, but I've gotten into the habit of checking the holds on many routes out there. It's just a part of climbing on that kind of rock, which I must admit that I do love!