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A VERY local event! I have a 40 ft long bouldering / traversing wall at my elementary school that will need holds installed. Bring your tools to tighten these guys on. I can get pizza delivered, but no beer. Otherwise, we can meet at McMenamins or Mad Greek Deli afterwards. When: Sunday October 4th from 3:30-6:30 and/or Monday October 5th from 4pm til ? Where: Springville School, 6655 NW Joss Ave, Portland 97229 Thanks!

And just to clarify... This hearing is different than a public meeting or the "town hall" type meetings that have been held in the past. I've been told that a hearings officer will actually run the meeting. Any land use folks out there who can help me clarify it better? This Conditional Use Application Hearing is just one of the steps that the County has to go through in regards to making this zoned timber site a park.

This upcoming public hearing was mentioned last winter/spring with the timeline that the County had provided, and was posted in this forum. Now the time for the hearing has finally arrived. Note below that the "hours of operation" that they County is proposing the park will be open is a DRAFT. The site still remains closed to public access. If you cannot attend the meeting ( most of us cannot), then feel free to submit your comments to the contact below before the hearing date. The Conditional Use Application is for Clackamas County to add a "conditional use" on a zoned timber site. The conditional use is for recreational opportunities (climbing, hiking, etc) on a timber site. This hearing would not change what the property is zoned for. A select timber harvest may still happen on site with recreation still taking place. The public did provide feedback to the County almost a year ago to NOT harvest ANY of the timber. Madrone Wall Park: Notice of Public Hearing Date: 22 October 2009, Thursday Time: Not to begin before 9:00 a.m., however, it may begin later depending on the length of preceding items Location: Development Services Building, Auditorium, 150 Beavercreek Road, Oregon City, Oregon City 97045 What: A Conditional Use Permit application has been proposed by Clackamas County Parks to establish a new County park – Hardscrabble Quarry/Madrone Wall, on 43.99 acres in the Timber zone. The proposal includes: parking spaces for 20 vehicles, bike parking, one vault toilet, trails for all levels of visitors from ADA to advanced hikers, Madrone Wall for climbing, interpretive signs, trailhead kiosk and an improved overlook above the Madrone Wall. The park will be open from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., April through October and from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., November through March. The park will be open for day use only. Access to the property is from Highway 224. All interested citizens are invited to attend the hearing. An agenda will be provided at the hearing. Testimony and evidence should address criteria identified above. Specific questions about the Public Hearing process are directed to Sandy Ingalls, SandyIng@co.clackamas.or.us, 503/742-4532 (Planning Division Staff Contact). In the 12 year fight to preserve and re-establish recreational access to the Madrone Wall, this is the ONLY time formal public testimony has EVER been solicited by Clackamas County. If you feel strongly about the future of the Madrone Wall, please come and present your testimony at this Public Hearing.

I haven't taken ICS, but went straight into Advanced Rock back in '03 when I was a Mazama. I know that the format and some of the stuff taught has changed since I was part of that organization. The Mazamas also offer some crevasse rescue weekend type classes. If you have the resume, and have climbed with some of the folks in the Mazamas before, you might be able to skip ICS entirely. I do know that many of the people who have taken ICS classes in the past have met some really great climbing friends, and they've all gone off and done some fun peaks on their own after they did take the class. Good luck!

The Parks Advisory Board met on Tuesday and agreed to keep the initial investment of $100K for the Madrone, and not allocate those funds to another park project. If you wrote a letter or e-mail, Thank you. It worked. The Park Staff actually commented on how many letters they received in regards to this one issue, and our call to action. Please continue to send your comments in, and more information will be available in the coming months about moving forward with construction at the site. We're not sure how much $100K will do for improvements at the site, but it's a starting point and our group can now apply for Access Fund grants, and fundraise specifically for construction costs and materials. Thanks!

A friend Eric passed this info along to me. Five climbers were out at Iron Mtn Crag in PDX, and the railroad ticketed them for trespassing. Don't go there until things get figured out.

Off_White It was in January of 2006 when the County Commissioners stated that: 1) This site will not be sold for quarrying or private development, 2)This site will be put into the inventory of land for future park space, and 3) To ask their Parks Board to move forward and develop a parks master plan. Up until 2006? There were still plans for the County to quarry the site, or sell it off to a private quarry operation or housing developer. So, yes, it has been closed for 12 years, but has only been actually preserved for 3.5 years. My faith in the public process? It was because of the hundreds of people who wrote, called, e-mailed, and attended public meetings that got this place preserved in the first place between the 2004 and January 2006 timeframe. I actually spent several hours in the 4 climbing gyms here in P-town ( and before the Circuit opened)asking people to sign petition letters. Obviously a bigger fight took place before 2004 to actually stop the initial quarrying plans back in 1997 when it closed. The real reason for the closure of the site in '97 was because the County was just a few months away from opening it back up for quarrying. The County will tell the public that it was because of liability, but the MWPC at that time filed a FOIA and came upon the actual quarry plans. My faith in the County is far less, but they did spend $80,000 on a parks master plan in conjunction with Alta Planning and Design. The initial investment in creating that plan at least showed some progress in moving forward. You can view that plan at www.madronewall.com. or at savemadrone.org Why $80K? It's part of Metro's money from the recent bond, and our taxpayer dollars, so ask the County why it costed $80K. You have the contact info.

It will need a parking area, restroom, and a road in for emergency vehicles. The trail development is an extra based on the master plan for the site. Clackamas County cannot have a park without including those top 3 needs I mentioned above. It is actually illegal ( an dangerous along this stretch) to park along Hwy 224. People do it anyways for river access, but again, Clackamas County would not create an official park and not have adequate parking for park users. This info as to the "why" has all been posted in this forum, and has been communicated at many of the public meetings, fundraisers, and on our snail mail list. Thanks for asking, Kevin

We just found out that the Madrone will not be receiving a matching grant through Oregon State Parks-Local Government Grant Program. This matching grant would have been an additional $100,000 on top of the $100K that the County had budgeted for the construction costs to start the improvements out at the site. This matching grant program was something that Clackamas County had to apply for since they have larger sums of money. The MWPC could not apply for this grant since the we are not a "local government." The Clackamas County Parks Board had also discussed ( and I mentioned this in my last update in June), that the $100K that Clackamas County had budgeted COULD go to other park projects. What does this mean? This means that the chances of this site becoming a park in the near future ( one year from now) would be put on the backburner, and who knows how much longer it could take because of the lack of funding. If you're asking about the Access Fund, they only give grants up to $10,000 per year, which won't do much for the amount it will cost for the construction of the road in and parking area. If Clackamas County does not invest any money at this site, we won't be able to apply for an AF grant anyways. If you care to share your input with Clackamas County Commissioners, please include in your letter to be creative with the $100K they did budget and NOT spend it on other park projects. Also, to be creative and work with the Oregon National Guard to see how much work they can get done with the $100K. You can also include that the Boring Station/ Springwater Corridor project DOES have access, but after 12 years, the publicly owned Madrone Wall site remains closed. You can read a letter I wrote that says similar things in this forum under the June 2009 update. You can e-mail them at: bcc@co.clackamas.or.us - general e-mail lynnpet@co.clackamas.or.us - Lynn Peterson, Chair baustin@co.clackamas.or.us - Bob Austin alininger@co.clackamas.or.us - Ann Lininger clehan@co.clackamas.or.us - Charlotte Lehan jbernard@co.clackamas.or.us - Jim Bernard

My boyfriend and I are planning on heading down the first week in August. We should arrive August 1st or 2nd and be leaving on the 7th. Does anyone have a group site that has some room? He's stayed near Lee Vining before, and there are other sites around there that don't take reservations which we can try also when we arrive. Thought I'd start here...You can send me a PM if you have something. Thanks! Kellie

I'm just the messenger, so I won't have all of the answers. Lakeside Bikes in Downtown LO is looking for a full time sales person (not a mechanic position-although you can ask). I'm working there part time this summer since the teaching gig is on hiatus for a couple of months. Mostly a road bike shop with some cyclocross, fixie's/SS, hybrid, and mountain bikes. We sell Pegoretti, Bianchi, Cannondale, Pinarello, De Rosa, Look, and Time Bikes. A few of the employees race, but it's certainly not a requirement. Knowledge of bikes is a necessity, and experience in bike sales is a plus. A willingness to learn and be coached from years of experience is a must. Wage? I believe it's somewhat negotiable and it's DOE. Might range between $10 and $12/hour to start. The last gal we interviewed never asked about the wage being negotiable, and kinda ended up being her loss....or our loss. She should have tried or at least asked about starting salary and raises. They would have worked with her. Talk to Gordon Haber or Amy Hunter-Dillinger at Lakeside Bikes. Bring a resume. http://lakeside-bikes.com

Thanks for re-posting this. If you scroll down a few posts in this forum you'll find the same event information.

Two dates in Oregon: I heard it's a $5.00 entrance fee at the door. 6/26 at 7pm in Bend at Climb Time address is 555 Arizona St. Studio 50 6/28 at 6pm in Portland at Club Sport 18120 SW Lower Boones Ferry Rd Matt is traveling to various cities in the US, and his shows will include images and video incuding England's famous Gritstone. The is an hour long show, and there will also be some great raffle prizes.

Below is a letter I sent to Katie Dunham today. E-mail addresses are: kdunham@co.clackamas.or.us ( Katie Dunham, Planner), bcc@co.clackamas.or.us ( Board of County Commissioners), lynnpet@co.clackamas.or.us ( Lynne Peterson is the Commissioner Chair) On June 10th, Katie made a presentation in Bend to the Oregon State Parks Board ( OSP) for the Madrone project to receive a matching grant. OSP has funds from Oregon Lottery money and other sources that helps agencies like Clackamas County, city parks, etc., receive significant grant money for matching funds to create or expand parks. Clackamas County has budgeted $100K of their own funding in hopes of receiving another $100K from this OSP Local Government Grant. This OSP Local Gov't Grant is something that our group, the MWPC, cannot apply for because we do not have a source of significant funding. Hence, a matching grant. Clackamas County did spend $80K for the Madrone Wall Master Plan which was completed in the Fall of '08. You can see those plans at our site, www.savemadrone.org, or the County's site, www.madronewall.com Ian Caldwell, former MWPC President, and State Parks employee, was at the hearing for other grant applications. When Katie was asked by the Board which 2 of the 3 grant projects Clackamas County preferred to receive funding for, Katie stated the the Madone was not one of them. Each applicant ( in this case, Clackamas County) can only receive 2 grants per year. The Clackamas County Parks Department would prefer to see funding for the Springwater Trail improvements in Boring, and one of their North Clackamas sites. I know that Clackamas County was seeking a $500K matching grant for the Springwater Trail, but I'm not sure how much the County was seeking for the North Clackamas Park site. When Keith attended the Parks Advisory Board meeting this last Tuesday, the PAB, along with Katie Dunham and Dan Zinzer, stated that if the Madrone did not receive a matching grant, then the $100K that was being budgeted by the County would go to help other projects within Clackamas County. Lame? Yes! This means that the County's proposed funding to even start something at this site would go to help other parks, and once again, the Madrone would be put on the back burner! This local gov't grant program that OSP has will have less grant money next year than they did this year because of everything that is happening with the economy, income and property tax dollars, RV sales ( which make contributions to park funding), and so on. We will know by mid-late July which grants Clackamas County will be receiving funding for their park projects. A total pain in my arse, and a thorn in my side! Kellie Katie- Last week in Bend you made a presentation for the Local Government Grant application for the Madrone Wall, Boring Station, and a North Clackamas Park. I'm sure that the Boring Station/ Springwater Trail project has received a great deal of support from businesses as well as residents in the area. Any improvements to the Springwater Trail are certainly an asset to the region. I realize that all of your parks are a priority, and I hope and appreciate that you gave the same enthusiasm to the Oregon State Parks Board at your presentation for the Madrone project. While you stated that you preferred the Boring Station project to receive grant funding over the Madrone project, I think that the County should still be creative with the funding that you do currently have, and see what can be done with the 100K to at least start the capital improvements at the Madrone site instead of spending that money on other park projects if the Madrone project does not get a matching grant. You asked the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee to see if we could find our own civil engineer, and we did! We have several resumes from undergraduate, graduate, and professional engineers at local universities that are willing to do the work pro bono, and the MWPC will be providing a small grant to the engineer(s) who end up getting the bid. I realize that it is not the norm for a "Friends of" group to find their own civil engineer, but you stated that you were trying to be creative in saving money for this specific project. In addition to finding several civil engineers who would do the engineering plans at no cost to the County, Keith also made a connection with the Oregon National Guard who can do the construction of the site improvements with no labor costs. The Oregon National Guard is ready with their own construction equipment, and with having done park construction projects before in our area, and it provides this group with valuable training as necessary to help with construction and rebuilding in disaster zones. The MWPC has found a couple of significant and creative ways to save Clackamas County money towards the Madrone project.This is a win-win for both the County and the 1000's of supporters who want to see this site move forward into a park in the near future. With all of the work that the MWPC has put into this site and finding legitimate cost cutting ways, even at your request, wouldn't it seem most appropriate to be as creative as well to see what could be done with the $100K that Clackamas County has budgeted for the site, regardless of receiving a matching grant. On behalf of the thousands of citizens who have written in, e-mailed, called, attended public meetings, and began to clean up the site at two restoration events, I'm requesting that Clackamas County be creative as well, and find ways to see that the Madrone Wall site begin construction improvements within the timeline that you've provided to us, the public, and your colleagues within Clackamas County. Thank you, Kellie Rice President, Madrone Wall Preservation Committee

Thursday June 25th 6-7pm 722 SW Taylor St in PDX ( Ride your bike or take MAX) Keith Daellenbach will give a one hour presentation/slideshow and Q&A about the current progress and next steps. ( You can find the current info under the Access Forum). Raffle pizes for attendees. Kellie Rice President, MWPC www.savemadrone.org

Looks like you got the info you need. I've been posting here on a regular basis. Often monthly, but at the very least every other month. You only have to go back a couple of pages under Access to see the various threads with the updates on what's the latest and where we are at.

http://www.smithrocks.com/flash/routeupdates/index.html Sometimes you have to surf a little to find the info.... Check out the info to the right of this page ( above) in RED text. Route Closures: Picnic Lunch Wall above 50m, Staender Ridge and the Monument/Little Three Fingered Jack area are closed February - July due to raptor nesting. I was just there over the weekend for the clean up. Several signs were along the trail near the Picnic Lunch wall area about the closure above 50 meters. We climbed two routes on the Picnic Lunch Wall ( Honey Pot and Teddy Bears), and we also got on some sport stuff near Super Slab. Parties were in line waiting for Super Slab and Moscow. So, no, there is no closure of the Red Wall Area.

Prairie Falcons are nesting at the top of the Picnic Lunch Wall. You CAN climb the first pitch of several routes up to 50 meters (signage says so). The closure does not impact the Red Wall Area. The closure is in effect until mid July. Go to www.smithrocks.com for more info on the closures. Kellie

165 volunteers made it down there. Projects included trail improvements in many areas. Rocks were hauled, dirt was shoveled, fences and retaining walls were built around Wherever I May Roam, Super Slab, Gullies, approach trail from the parking lot, Rope-de-Dope trail area, trail between the Peanut and Cinnamon Slab, garbage pick up, mulching and removing dead junipers. Some work was done at the Grasslands / Skull Hollow, too. Lots of folks worked hard for several hours. Thanks to Ian Caldwell and the rest of the Smith Rock Group for all of their work with this annual event. If you missed it, it's generally the 1st or 2nd Saturday in May. Go to smithrocks.com for more info. I'll post the following in another new thread, but there are Prairie Falcons up at the top of the Picnic Lunch Wall area. You can climb up to 50 meters ( 1st pitch ) on the Picnic Lunch wall until mid July or August 1st ( I'm not certain of the date). The upper pitches of Teddy Bear's Picnic and many of the Aid routes are closed at this time.

Tony ( the AF rep), many folks from the Smith Rock Group, and a few others at the main AF office have received the same e-mail as Bill. Thanks, Bill for posting this. From what I've known for some time is if you drive 1/4 mile or so up the gravel road north of the campground it's BLM land for 25 miles to the north.....you can camp amongst the cow pies for free!!! I agree that the fee is most lame, damn right illegal without any kind of public process, and has been put into place because of thefts, non-climbing riff raff hanging out for weeks on end, trash, etc, etc. I stopped camping there a couple of years ago because I just got tired of the generators running all night. I'd rather pay my 4 bucks at the bivy, and sleep in peace and quiet in a maintained campground.

I had posted this under Access, but it has not seen many views... Saturday May 16 from 10 am - 1pm. Meet at Carver Park by 9:45 ( drive across the bridge to the Carver Boat Ramp), and we'll carpool to the site. Bring whatever tools you have for clipping ivy, clematis, scotch broom, and blackberry brambles (label your tools if you can). There is poison oak, but it's mostly up near the cliffs. Bring work gloves and water. Climb Max will be putting on a BBQ afterwards for volunteers at Carver Park. We did not see much garbage for the wildflower tour 2 weeks back, but there might be some. Send me a PM if you need more details. And no, there won't be any climbing afterwards! Sorry! Thanks! Kellie What's the status? It's rather short and sweet, and there have not been many update since I posted in the Access Forum back in March. You can look there for more details. 1) Clackamas County filed the Conditional Use Application (CUP) for the State of Oregon to allow recreation ( a conditional use) on a zoned timber site. A public hearing will take place on the CUP, and anyone can attend. We're waiting for the date, time and location of that hearing... 2) Clackamas County also filed (or is doing that right now) the Local Government Grant for $100K with OR State Parks. It will be a matching grant with the $100K that the County is fronting. We'll need this grant to get started on the construction next Summer 2010. 3) If all goes well with the hearing and the grant, Clackamas County should start taking construction bids in the Winter.

Nice to see you out on your bike today! There is some poison oak up near the cliffs, but it's hard to find it down below in the meadow area. There are a TON of stinging nettles though.

I've received a few e-mails and spoke with a few others in recent months about the Madrone. Those that I've spoke with have heard that the Madrone is "open" for climbing and that access has been restored. This could not be farther from the truth. We're all adults here. For those that choose to poach, you're taking your own chances. Below is my response to one of those people who have heard that it's open. One thing is for certain. When it's open, you will all know about it and there will be a huge party!!! Many of us on this forum take ownership of a local crag. Many of us have put hours of blood, sweat, and tears into an area. Joseph H and company at Beacon with the peregrines, Bill Coe who has tirelessly has helped me out at Rocky Butte over the years with all of the garbage, Kevin E and company at Ozone, lots of folks at Smith, many in Southern Oregon, and the list goes on for other folks with their Washigton crags.... Yes, Clackamas County is dragging their heels, and they enjoy making Keith and I jump through all kinds of bureaucratic hoops. It's complete bullshit, but we keep on moving forward and busting our asses so that one day, thousands of people (and not just a few) will have a great place and get to climb, hike, play with their kids, enjoy nature, etc. ----- The Madrone Wall has been posted "No Trespassing" since September of 1997. While there has been forward progress made with park creation and the completion of a parks master plan by the County, it still remains closed to public use ( ie, no access). Climbing, and other uses, without County permission, are discouraged and NOT supported by the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee ( MWPC). The MWPC has had times where we've been granted permission by Clackamas County for our Annual Wildflower Tour ( just held yesterday with almost 25 visitors), visits by various supporting conservation groups ( Native Plant Society, Three Rivers Land Conservancy), visits by the media ( many Oregonian articles), as well as our stewardship/ volunteer clean up events. Our first event was held in September of 2008 and our second will be held on May 16. We do have permission, support, and presence by the County to be out there for these clean ups. These clean ups are helping to "prime" the area for future clean up events, for the construction process, as well as a solid affirmation by our group to become a "Friends of" organization. Our work out there helps us and the County potentially be at the top of the list to receive grant money for park creation and capital improvements (construction costs), when granting organizations see a "Friends of" group attached to the request for donations or awards. Climbing, hiking, and unfortunately vandalism and other destructive activities, that are currently happening out there are not allowed. Many people continue to "poach" the site for a variety of uses. It is illegal and none of us are above the law. None of this helps the work that we are trying to do, and it continues to be a step backwards in regards to the forward progress that has been made. All of our updates are on www.savemadrone.org Please respect the County's wishes in regards to the closure, and do not trespass. Kellie Rice President, Madrone Wall Preservation Committee kellie.e.rice@gmail.com

Saturday May 9th. I think this is the 17th or 18th year in a row. The fun starts at 8 am and will be wrapped by by 3:00 or so. Free dinner ( generally a burrito feed), slideshow, silent and oral auction, raffle prizes, gear vendors, slacklines, beer, kids, dogs, and lots of good friends! Volunteers get free parking for the day. There are always several projects that need to be done. You can work really hard hauling rocks around for retaining walls, or something a little easier, like picking up trash along the river. There is something for everyone to do. Even the little kids. You can always get more information at www.smithrocks.com Silent and oral auction money raised goes to the Smith Rocks Climbers Coalition ( a non profit) and it will buy supplies for the clean up in 2010.

I'll be sending you a PM.