sir_vent

I'd like to ski in a ways to try the East face couloir on Cutthroat (there are also plenty of backup peaks in that area in case. Or the stuart glacier couloir? I also wonder how the snow gulch on whitehorse looks right now.

John I'm game.

yeah I emailed him, I'm planning to go with them.

I know, it sucks balls, I was all excited for the weekend, weather and all, then the day after I posted I sprained my wrist and got a nasty sore throat. Next week I have final exams and they finish on thursday so starting friday I should be ready to get out.

cool, I'm still sick and spending most of today and probably tomorrow . It'll be good to get yer beta tho!

Chris, I'm sure you know this already, but I tried the snowgulch route and it was misreable with not enough snow, you'll probably be able to tell from Darrington. I wouldnt go up it unless it had a good couple feet. However I saw some nice blue ice near the top and climbers right of the summit, probably thats what your headed for.

I'm in Seattle.

I did tons of climbs this summer, and I can't wait to get some winter experience. I have a break and I'd like to attempt Rainier, maybe baker and Shuksan. I also have some b/c ski's I want to try out. I know a lot of stuff is not easily accessible, etc so I'm open to suggestions. I don't neccessarily care what I climb or whether I summit as long as I'm getting out this office and into the mountains. PM me. Ben

I bought a set of these. At 13,700 ft on the swiss arete of mt sill, I pulled on the blue size and one of the trigger wires snapped! The cam was pretty much new with no falls at all, and had been placed about 4 times previously.

I was 3 hrs car to summit 1 hr on summit and 2.5 hours back. Took the cascadian. I can't imagine doing the complete N ridge in such a time but I guess if your good on the rock and dont bother with gear it could be done.

I was eyeing this route while on the coleman-deming and while climbing around on the coleman seracs. Does anyone know if the route is possible right now? Thanks.

we did the NE face a few weekends ago, it felt pretty contrived because you go up the standard E ridge and then traverse out of your way above the schrund to some very moderate alpine ice/slush that leads back to the regular route. We could've left our tools at home.

glacier ice with a summit is what's fun to me!

I've cut my teeth on the stuart ice cliff and the Kautz. I was eyeing the coleman headwall but that looks like a bit more than I'm ready for and I just went up baker this year. Was also eyeing the nisqually icefall but again, that looks pretty serious. Was hoping to do some ice on eldorado but am hearing that there isnt any ice there right now, so: does anyone know any moderate ice routes that lead to summits and are in now?

dang, I hope this low snow season has changed things!

The crevasses are opening up on the top of the route, I'd give it another week or so of hot weather then it's gonna be much more of a hassle.

So I bought this "glacier rope" and it says twin on the package. I was planning to use it singly on glaciers and it would be much nicer for the NE face of eldorado than my fat heavy rope. So how unsafe would it be to lead some moderate grade ice / fall in a crevasse on this thing without another for twin technique?

Anyone know about the recent ice conditions on the NE face? Thanks.

I heard from a friend who tried this route last weekend that the turtle is a very loose and unappealing moraine and that the wilson is too cracked up to travel on. He said I should take the lower trail. Anyone know if the route accross the nisqually is still in? also does anyone know if the last bit to the summit is heavily crevassed now? I'll be calling the rangers too, thanks for the beta everyone!

goatboy, we werent planning to do the ice cliff, just the ice chute to the left of it. From fixie's pix it looks just about soloable... But from the pictures I'm seeing, the more screws we have the more fun we can get into. we were planning to descend the DC so are going super light. I'm thinking of sleeping (or probably not sleeping any ) on the rope without a sleeping bag, just in a space blanket since I dont have a bivy sack but my partner does. Anyone have any similar bivy experiences that might sway me towards a different bivying tactic?

A friend and I are planning to do this route this weekend, would it be that dangerous with only 3 screws? We're both new but I've practiced at the coleman twice now, putting in screws on the flat is cake but I think it would be tough while climbing on the vertical. Looking at that picture, are there multiple lines such as to the right of the chute, that have more ledges to belay from? Also no one answered whether the ice was good enough for a v-thread? Thanks!