
Coldfinger
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FS--Mammut Shock Absorber/DMM Phantom Wiregates
Coldfinger replied to Coldfinger's topic in The Yard Sale
Dragon sold pending $$, item added, thanks! -
FS--Mammut Shock Absorber/DMM Phantom Wiregates
Coldfinger replied to Coldfinger's topic in The Yard Sale
Updated, thanks! -
Howdy, PayPal preferred, will ship free to lower 48 via USPS. Pics below listing. 1. Mammut Shock Absorber (New) & 2 DMM Dragon Phantom wiregate carabiners (gunmetal & silver) (excellent condition) retail $60, asking $35. 2. Compact Swiss army knife with scissors, asking $5.
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If the cam is identical to the jumar than look at the link I posted. Weighted ropes + potential fall (i.e. collapsing crevasse lips) + jumar teeth = potential rope failure. Sheesh. Tiblocs are harder on ropes so I would rather use a jumar but those are clunky, ropeman 2 seemed a good ratchet. Keep in mind the fallen climber will not go farther than the original fall as that strand will also be anchored, hence no death fall. Sorry, but that backup seemed obvious and you are right that a jumar can cut the sheath and or the core, but that is fatal only if that strand is your sole one. So now that that is clear (ie even if the cam cuts the rope) anybody have any comments on the system I asked about?
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Nope, just calling your paragraphs as I see em. You wanna hijack a thread way off topic you take the risk.
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Wastral stop trolling!!! Last I knew Bridwell used jumars not prussiks, you're really being an idiot; the Trax & Minitrax both use an ascender cam just like the Ascension, they just have a pulley too. Wfinley--for one thing if you have not used the Ropeman 2, why are you commenting on it? It has a cam identical to a jumar; Please refer to my Bridwell comment above. Sheesh!
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Heard all these cam deformation is not an issue comments; guys I did not mean the cam failing, rather was speaking of how well the hot forged (and not merely milled) cams have held up to use--no signs of wear. I'd add the dragon has a better sling even when it is NOT extended. Probabably would give the C4 the nod for aid due to the shorter clip point, but for free climbing it is pretty hard to beat DMM. Interestingly the cam width on the dragon varies with 2-4 having wider cams.
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There was a big dislike for me--the Helium friends dangle way low when you add a biner to the very long stem and long sling from my harness. Freaking things got in my way. Not sure why the stem is so long, but the dragon has a nicer stem length and a better sling.
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Mainly as the ropeman, minitrax or even prussiks are also great for climbing out of a crevasse. Known and seen folks fall in but none got pulled out. Not that I would ever be unprepared for a rescue, but as a two man team you'd better get yourself out. Kinda seems folks tend to forget that and emphasize hauling in these topics.
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But as a peanut butter sandwich it tastes so good I can forget I am too broke for the jelly
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I like how whole wheat products look, white bread is so boring and makes folks feel poor. Now if we could just get America too eat more pumpernickel........
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The Revolvers seem pretty ideal, any idea of how well the rope tracks in the pulley in z haul systems? Should track fine, just not the most efficient diameter, I'd bring one mainly for rope drag on long leads on one rope.
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Hey goober, I am NOT going down to NAPA to buy something I will be using far more often as an ascender or top rope self belay than to haul somebody out of a crevasse so that's why I wanted to avoid buying a pulley I ain't likely to use more than once in a while (never mind carrying a pulley around everywhere). I already got me a revolver and a ropeman, so no cash was the idea. Minitraxions are the shiz for that too, don't wanna buy one tho.
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date rape, not a big deal in the eyes of the law http://www.southparkstudios.com/clips/155304/nice Shit junior, guess your ass does need kicked.
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Who needs dreams, just ply her with vodka.
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Was thinking of using the revolver on the z, but coming back to the haulers or on the loop if I happen to be in the crevasse. Have the ropeman anyway and then stumbled on that diagram using it as a ratchet instead of a pulley and fill in the blank prussik or tibloc. Never seen that one before.
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Good points on the PO-Lice.... Remembering the good old days, we'd get a ride home and not to jail, kinda feel bad for today's youths. When faced with that kinda crapola I've either laughed at the idiot, left, or just let him no I ain't giving an inch. You'd be surprised how effective making those types feel self conscious can be. No point in slugging the dude, my rule is not to fight anybody unless I'd happily kick the crap out of someone based on history and that is a VERY short list. Good to learn Tai Chi (don't laugh) as it actually IS a fighting style, is very gentle, but is VERY effective against drunks who tend to lose control of their momentum and balance. Kinda quiets most of em down when they go flying with so little effort.
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Lighter? Really? Have been watching quite a few folks leaving a draw on every Camalot they place, so I figure you have to compare a Dragon and one biner to a Camalot, a runner, and three biners. Probably not a big problem if you're craggin, but it sure adds up if you gotta hike any distance and then lug the entire rack up 12 pitches. Also tends to cut down on the harness clutter if you don't have to bring a ton of draws. Agreed on small sizes, using WC Zeroes myself as I like having four cams, a very flexible stem and the extendable sling. Would be using Metolius if not. Big plus on DMM/WC is the color coding matches their lines of nuts which are hands down the best. Again a small thing, but I'd be more impressed with BD if their nuts were color coded to match their line of cams, instead of just coloring the nuts for the sake of coloring them. And nice catch on the String thing!
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Looks like Gene is looking for a new friend (Keenwesh) for naked dancing and shit.
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I'll be using the Ropeman 2, should've made that clear. Seemed weird to me but it's here: Link I was initially skeptical, but it occurred to me that folks use biners as pulleys, so why not the ropeman. That system does have the advantage of a c pulley to the fallen climber.
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Kinda seems like you need to find some new friends, or at least write that scene off, kinda hard to believe nobody there stepped in. Whoever threw it seems rather dickish. Any possibility the whole party was gonna team up on you?
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Seeing as Denali season is getting underway, I was wondering about something I've run across and though it'd be a good time to post it here and not the Gear Critic. So..... I have run across a rescue set up where the primary pulley (i.e. the one attached directly to the anchor in a z system) has been replaced by a Ropeman. Any of you have any experience with this?
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Sweet, reminds me of April 17 actually......... On the bright side this should enhance your climbing, er I meant belaying skills. On the dark side, you might be tipping over more columns when you get back.
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If it's an OPEN sling............. Do NOT do this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, here's why. This has caused at least one death. MP Discussion This is the reason short quickdraws which come from the manufacturer with rubber o-rings or inserts are ALL dogboned with bartacks and not open loop.
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Yes there have been reviews here before of the DMM Dragon, but here's a look at some finer points and a close look at the extendable sling. Gotta love the hot forged cams, have been impressed with the lack of deformation so far, this is a BIG difference between any other manufacturer. Can't say these handle any differently than thumb looped cables, the width of the hot forged stem fitting provides a fumble free base (unlike C2 Camalots and Tech Friends), with better contact surface area than a loop. The stem fitting design has the flexibilty to choose using either the thumb tip (ala the Tech Friend) OR the base of the thumb much the same as a loop. Makes using gloves a snap. In addition to the weight savings of an extendable sling, i.e. the weight and clutter of a quickdraw, it is much simpler than having to reach down and grab a draw, clip it and then clip the rope. It IS important to unclip the correct strand (the non-bar tacked one), as the bar tacks will not pass through the eyelets. I have placed marking tape over the plastic sheath on the bar tacks to help me quickly identify (and remind me) which strand to unclip. EDIT--Do NOT use rubber bands or O rings with open slings. Death link. Extendable slings can be a bit of a finger puzzle when one is working with one pumped hand, so I'd strongly suggest practicing and refining that technique. Then it is quick and second nature. I push that strand through using my thumb on the biner back, my ring and pinky on the biner bottom and my pointer and middle fingers on the dyneema strand in a 'pinch unclip'. The key is to have the non bar-tacked strand closest to the gate and the bar-tacked strand closest to the biner back when one is racking up, this simple trick makes a HUGE difference. Another benefit of the sling and eyelet design is that I have found that even when not extended, the sling pivots more easily and freely than any other cam I've used. It is longer than most even when not extended. The shorter stem also seems to reduce the stem's leverage on the cam head, thus further reducing walking. A huge plus is how small these are in your pack, a BIG plus in the backcountry. Nice to be able to buy good gear that is NOT made in China.