kevbone

Super tough. Arent has two children. I have one. We are both fat and out of shape....so we thought, instead of ruining our selves on some hard 10 or harder.....we would link up some easy stuff.....the simil climb thought came after looking at the weather report.

Ah....I will do laps with you anytime dog!

Trip: Smith Rock - Link ups...... Date: 12/8/2007 Trip Report: Arent and I drove out to Smith Rock on Friday night. Slept at the grassland in the snow. Were the first people in the parking lot and at the base of the rock. It was not warm. It was a low of 12 the night before and a high of 32 in the day. We simil climbed Cinnamon Slab 100 feet apart in one pitch. Then did a quick hike over and down the little down climb walk off to Spider Man. Then roped up to simil climb Spider Man 100 feet apart in one pitch. There was snow on ledges……good times…. Then hiked over the top and down and simil climbed Super Slab 100 feet apart in one pitch. Then back to the top for a quick rest and walk down the walk off to Zebra Zion back to our waiting lunch in our packs that were stashed under the rock next to 5 gallon buckets. Next up……Moonshine Dihedral. After that we were both cooked being we are both off the couch and new dad’s. Drove for home but stopped at Martinas (mexy) in Madras for veggie burritos…. I recommend linking easy climbs to anyone. This truly was…..good times. Especially since I have not been there in over a year…… Gear Notes: If you simil climb....I recomend a big rack.

At least under the Northmans nose.

but it will be fine if, when it gets into print, there is a note that says, "initial cleaning and TR ascent" by me. If it ever gets into print. If you were the person who climbed it first regardless if it was on TR or not…..you should be given the FA credit. Who ever led it without falling should get the FFA credit.

Bullshit.

About 10 years ago. Pink (Andrew), The Toe (little Larry), Lash (old Larry), Jim, Arnet, Rad Brad Jarrett and myself all climbed Young warriors together. Later in the day, Brad decided to try to onsite Freeforsome (up to the upper anchor). I belayed him, while all the others listed above watched in ah! Brad, being the bad ass climber he is, sent it, all the way to the upper anchor first go. He thought the on site grade was 11c/d. Brad was climbing super strong due to just getting back from putting up a FA on The Nameless Tower in Pakastan. I will never forget that moment. Nobody else was around except our group. Oh yeah…..and matlock.

Yes, and its harpe.

So I get out there one day without a partner about 9 years ago. Jim and Ken were racking up to climb the corner….I thought “great someone to climb with”. I asked if I could hop on their party. Jim said yes. Ken said no. I was like what do you mean no? Ken decided to be an asshole that day…..he said (in a grovely, deep voice) “I have been climbing in parties of three all summer and now I get to climb with only one other person and you want to fuck that up, try rope soloing the corner and we will meet you on the ledge for a bowl”. “If you can’t get there on your own, then you suck”. I proceed to get pissed off at him, but realized even thought Ken is smaller than me…..he would fuck me up. I roped soloed the SE corner with a pack on. Climbed ever pitch twice and learned how to do that. I am now glad Ken said what he said so I could learn something new.

Thats it!!!!!

You are referring to a guy who lived in the couv and is great guitar player. I have climbed with him back in the day…..I think his name is Jason…..I cant believe I cant remember his name. Pink and I were just talking about him a couple of weeks ago. Total rocker.

Yes

Yes Jen….that would be Ken I was referring too! He is top left in this picture. With the black hair leaning over. I miss Ken. I wonder what happened to him. Ken could go from the ground up to the ledge in 8 minutes. Ken would solo around with a little jam box hanging off his fanny pack with the Scorpions playing.

My first day climbing with Mark D was out at Beacon about 5 years ago. A beautiful fall day. Mark asked me if I wanted to lead all day. He had climbed 6 of the last 5 days and did not mind following all day. I said sure. Warmed up on Little wing into Fear of Flying (one pitch), then the crux of Jills into Crazy Horse (one pitch) up to ledge and rap down. Then onto Young Warriors to top….walk off. Then Blownout. Rap off. 10 pitches that day. We both sent everything. I will never forget that day because the very next day we climbed again and Mark led the entire day. He lead all of Young Warriors……he forgot his belay device only he did not know this until he was at the first anchor. He hip belayed me……his confidence was such that is gave me confidence to trust him completely. So I received a hip belay all that day on follow. Great day….thanks Mark.

Bill said it best. “Treat people how you would want to be treated”. This is very simple.

Awe….how sweet Mark…..my birthday is in March….I will be expecting pictures…… I remember this day…..I was belaying Bryan on this third accent. I gave him this red shirt to wear for the picture…..

Jen……you were leading the crux of Jill’s Thrill. Placing gear for the first time……

I also believe it is BeaconBen’s birthday as well……how ironic.

Yes....playing soccer of all things.

Today is Bryans birthday. Sorry you are injured or we would go climbing. So happy birthday bro……. :brew: :brew: :brew: :brew: :brew: :brew:

This is a story all on its own.....opening day 10 years ago.

i fell once at the crux on dods on a long lead starting from down below the off-widthy section - anyway, w/ rope stretch and the run-out i'd built up by trying to lie back the crux i ended up getting caught in the upper branches of that brushy tree before the rope even went tight! I have wanted to cut that tree out of the wall for years.....but the rath of Jim would shroud me for years if I did.....

Wayne…..what a great idea. Aiding Blownout: Arent and I had only been climbing for about one year…..but by that time we both were leading (on a good day) 10.a. It was January, just before the closing about 10 years ago. We decided (on the couch) to go and aid Blownout. It was the middle of winter and raining like cats and dogs. We stopped at that little shop on the way ate breakfast. I have not eaten there since. Greasy spoon. Arent started climbing at noon (mind you it gets dark around 4:30-4:45 in January). Arent was in his tennis shoes and was trying to free as much as possible. We did not know about the direct start at that time. So we just kind of went straight up. Arent took a couple of lead falls while aiding. I just stood there in the cold and rain. It took Arent about 3 hours to get to the anchor. And that time there where no bolts for anchors. He made a bomber anchor in the crack and I started to jug. This was my first time jugging and it took a while. I finally got to the anchor, switched racks and I headed up the perfect splitter above. At this point in my climbing I had aided a couple of times but I was by no means good at it. The fun came when I was about 20 feet up. It was pitch black out. Totally dark. I was using my head lamp to look up into the crack to see what size I needed, then using my hand to reposition my lamp back on my rack to see what size to grab. Oh yeah. Did I mention it was raining? This went on and on and on. I kept back cleaning gear thinking I would need it higher. I placed a lot of nuts. I finished the pitch in about 1 ½ hours. I toped out on the ledge on top (remember there was no anchor at this time) and was completely out of slings. I walked back and placed one orange Metolius and a number 3 Camalot way to the left around the corner and used the rope and my aiders as an anchor material. Communication with Arent was almost impossible. He finally got the hint that he could start jugging. As soon as he weighted the rope all the nuts and cams I placed shot straight out and got stuck. It took him about 2 hours to clean the pitch without leaving gear. I on the other hand was totally wet and cold on the ledge above. I did jumping jacks for a hour to keep warm. I froze my butt off. Arent finally arrived and we broke the anchor and split up and right for the rap line on Jills. Well and at time they had not invented dual colored ropes so it took a little longer to find the middle and we were both soaked and cold and our minds were not working well. It was about 8 o clock by this point. On the first rapell. Arent’s headlamp went out. WILL IT EVER END……I was thinking. We finally reached the ground soaking wet. Our ropes where soaking wet. We hiked out with one head lamp and got back to the car at 9 pm. Arent missed a family gathering he was supposed to be at around 6 pm. It took 9 hours to go car to car, we thought it would take 3 to 4. Oh how we were so wrong. This is just one crazy adventure I have had with the tall Dutch boy…….

Hang in there Rob......we will make it to Smith Rocks soon enough.....get well! Kevin