kevbone

So back to stoke. Who is climbing what when Beacon opens?

It sets a very bad precedent when just anybody starts to chop bolts just because THEY did not like them. That argument is completely irrelevant.

I agree with everything you said except ask the community what they think. Just need to ask Bob. Which I know what he will say. Thanks again steve!

Someone asked me today about replacing the two rotten pins with bolts. I told them they need to ask the FA first. Thanks

Thanks Steve. I will pass that info along.

Anybody have a guide book handy? Who did the FA of Sufficiently Breathless?

Jealousy is unbecoming of you.

Jills Thrill and Young Warriors (proper) are for sure on my list of climbs I am stoked to get on. I think I will be stoked to just be a Beacon again. Hell. I will be stoked to climb the SE corner. Fear of Flying will be on the list too. Man I cant wait......planning on being out there on July 15 in the evening.

Enough about JH....... Beacon is about to open. Lets get some stoke in here. What are you stoked to climb on opening week?

Beacon opens in a little over 2 weeks. What will be your first climb? Mine..... Young Warriors! I am not in shape enough mentally to pull off the boltless warrior.

Yup. I love retroing your own route. On the FA of Kung Fu the second, third and fourth bolt was not there. Came back later to make it reasonable to lead. Also retroed Dirty Jugs with two of the current bolts. And High Plains Drifter got another bolt from the FA. Plus added all three finishing bolts on Standing Ovation from the FA.

Stewart will be the one adding the bolt.

JH. What I do know is what you say and what you do are very different. I do not feel you are credible.

So when is Beacon opening?

Anybody know if we are slated for July 15 open day?

Thanks JH. I believe you are kind of a wet blanket with all of this. You dont bring anything positive to the conversation. Ever.

Wow. A compliment!

I climbed Rolling Thunder with Kevin a while back. He was giving it 10.d.....I laughted at him as everyone I knew was giving it more like 11.b/c. Really hard for the grade. He did have a hard time getting to Heaven ledge saftely and also as I followed. I dont think the wall needs an extra anchor. But could see another bolt going in to protect said traverse for leader or follower.

Climbed Orion the other day. forgot how fun that is.

Beacon Rock.

Who ever did it was a pro. I had to look real hard for the bolt.

I agree Kenny. Does not change the character of the route. But Chopping bolts is a no no. IMO. Especially Jims

It has its own anchors. Bolts.

Really lame to chop bolts without the permision of the FA. I know Jim had no knowledge of this. The route can still be climbed. But that is not the point.

Noticed today that the first bolt on Stairway to Heaven has been chopped. This is a Jim route and one of the first to go up back in 2005. Chopping bolts is bad but chopping Jims bolts are even worse. This was a total pro job. You have to look closely to see where it was.... I have a good idea who did this. Anybody have any ideas?