Stuart

I haven't go the book to hand, but did the Brits have the rope on much (at all) on their ascent in 1982? Just wondering about the solo bit too....

Did the test ice block show what happened when you placed an ice axe into it? I wonder if the ice would have shown the same fracturing and splintering as the BD screw or not? Would you not trust an ice axe if it did? Just wondering out loud....

I have used Invernos (Vega's in Europe) and Salomon Mountain Guide 9's, and now have a pair of Scarpa Alpha's. The Inverno's felt and climbed like I was wearing a pair of flippers, whilst the Salomons were f'ing cold!! (Got serously cold feet once and threw them away once I got to the valley). The Alpha's are the best of both worlds. Light, water-tight, climb well and warm (feet often sweat and stink by the end of a long day). Make sure they fit your feet though.