deskdriver

John, The "Cody 3+" comment is brilliant. Thanks for the thanks ... MFT

Hail, I apologize for resurrecting this but I heard about John's death just today. Mike Long, with whom John and I and Pat MaNerthney climbed "Falling Falls" somewhere out in Eastern Washington casually mentioned it in an e-mail. I felt a bit sick when I read it. Lesley, I have the newspaper article Mark McKillop mentioned and a bunch of pictures from an Alaskan trip we took together in 1985, probably some from the Canadian Rockies and canoeing across Tumwater Canyon as well. I would be happy to scan and send if you are interested. PM me at: mft230jhp@hotmail.com To all of my old Cascade climbing friends and acquaintances further up the thread it was a pleasure to read some of those stories, thank you. Take care, Mark Twight

TBay, Jon R, Erik W ... et al, I have to do the mass communication here regarding the O2 Illusions paper (mentioned above), Gym Jones and short duration/high intensity training in general. 1) The paper was written to support the contention that short duration/high intensity work improves endurance. All of the science is in it. The paper is a bit over a year old and I am that year smarter but haven't had time to rewrite it so I'm not willing to send it out at the moment. 2) This type of training works, proven over and over. BUT ... it isn't complete, or specific and if improving endurance is your main goal you cannot get away from going long. That said, by increasing intensity you can cut into those hours and hours of long slow distance work and come out well ahead. One must still train specificity, technique. But having a higher level of general fitness (organic) improves the efficiency of one's technical practice (neurological) i.e. one may train technique without attempting to train fitness at the same time. There is a lot of training information on the Gym Jones site. Check the Knowledge section. This page will fill out as I have time. You can go back to 12/03 in the calendar to see daily workouts and glean some micro or macro scheduling ideas from there. 3) The Gym Jones site doesn't make recommendations, it is simply a place for us to record information and experience. What anyone else does with it is up to them. My areas of interest and the athletes I train are changing, fewer climbers, more fighters, though there are still a few ultra-endurance types around. Work affects the type of training I provide and do. For the last four months no one has done specific endurance work so you won't find much about it in the calendar. That will change. 4) Mass: you can put it on or lose it with any training program by modifying what you put in your mouth. With proper attention to diet most find it hard to gain size on a SD/HI training program. Some of the CF big boys can do a lot more pull-ups than most little boys, and run faster as well. Maybe "aerobic" training would help reduce bulk but it also compromises power, so one must decide which is more important (and be certain of the truth of that decision). I haven't surfed the CC forum for about a year, and it may take that long to get back. "Enjoy" the training, and then USE the results ... MFT

Yes, the Wipers compilation that (somehow) got sent around to unintended recipients is missing a few hits. There is a V.2 for those on my "A" list. MFT I really did laugh my ass off when I first saw Twark Might but the thing in Ouray ... that was a drag.

I found a Patagonia Stretch R1 Hoody at the base of south ridge of Cuthroat on October 4th. PM with color and size if it's yours. I'll send it. MFT

This is Vince Anderson and Manu Ibarra in Dover, October 2003. I'll post some more on the Grivel North America site in the next few days. MFT

If you want to learn more about the Monster and why it does not conform to CE standards for ice axes (noted in Fromage's original post) I uploaded a screed to the Articles section at www.grivelnorthamerica.com. The reason few are using the tool on ice is also explained (although Grivel did update their slideshow with some pics of someone using a Monster on ice). MFT

Dan, An excellent and welcome story, and I knew immediately from the title who you were writing about. ROTC in sneakers, is that the next installment? He was last seen in So Cal. Jonny Blitz may know his exact whereabouts. I'll ask him tonight. MFT