Keith_Henson

NPR story today: Todd Skinner, Free-Climbing Pioneer http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6397277

Lost hiker stays put, stays alive SEAN ROBINSON; The News Tribune Published: October 21st, 2006 06:43 AM LUI KIT WONG/THE NEWS TRIBUNE Mount Rainier National Park Ranger Geoff Walker describes where rescuers found Sarah Heitman on Friday. She was lost for four days on the mountain. Once she realized she was lost in the highlands of Mount Rainier National Park, Sarah Heitman did everything right. She stopped moving, pitched a tent, divvied up her remaining food into 14 portions, read a book and waited. That was Monday night. She waited four days. Around 1:15 p.m. Friday, searchers found her alive and well, a mile and a half north of the Wonderland Trail, camped along Winthrop Creek. “She just decided to stay put,” said park ranger Geoff Walker, who led the search that ended with Heitman’s rescue. “Exactly what we hoped a lost person would do.” Heitman, a 21-year-old student at the University of Puget Sound, had started a planned four-day, 33-mile hike on Oct. 14. Her route, starting at Ipsut Creek, was supposed to take her around the Northern Loop Trail and back to her starting point by Tuesday. The third day brought snow and fog. Heitman strayed from the trail. “The snow obliterated the trail,” Walker said. “She just lost it. She followed the slope of the ground.” No one knew she was lost. No one knew she was missing. She wasn’t due back at school until Wednesday. Another smart move helped the searchers, Walker said. Before she left, Heitman told her roommates where she was going, and posted her itinerary and planned route on her door at UPS. When she didn’t show up for classes Wednesday morning, her friends alerted park authorities. A team of searchers that grew to 80 combed the trail and known campsites Thursday but could not find her. Friday morning, the searchers found Heitman’s footprints along Winthrop Creek, but the terrain was too treacherous to follow on foot. It was early afternoon when a helicopter spotted her tent. “Scraped up, bruised up, no injuries,” Walker said, describing her condition. “She was outfitted extremely well. She had the knowledge.” Heitman’s parents had been waiting at the park, fighting fear. Her father, Tim Heitman, flew out from Wisconsin. When Sarah saw him, she said, “I can’t believe you’re here.” The father couldn’t speak. “Pretty emotional – you see someone you thought you might never see again,” he said. “She couldn’t look any better to me right now.” The elder Heitman praised park personnel repeatedly, citing not only the rescue but also their assistance during the long wait. Sarah Heitman didn’t speak to the small crowd of reporters gathered at the park. Her father said she was taking a long, hot shower. He also said he was pondering Christmas gifts. “I think I’ll buy her a GPS and a couple of signal flares,” he said. Sean Robinson: 597-8486

When the Crystal Mountain Season Pass arrives by mail (as it did yesterday)! We are so ready

I guess the reason they didn't ask me to be on the calandar is because I'm not Austrian... http://www.ananova.com/news/story/sm_1985359.html

article in today's tnt about warming and cascade glaciers http://www.thenewstribune.com/news/northwest/story/6054236p-5311994c.html

Climb: Sahale Peak-Sahale Glacier-solo Date of Climb: 7/18/2006 Trip Report: At 10:30, Tuesday morning, July 18, 2006 I left the Cascade Pass parking lot heading for camp at the base of the Sahale Glacier planning to climb Sahale on Wednesday morning. The weather was hot with high clouds. I made it to the upper moraine at around 3:15 and began to set up my Zoid when I heard a celebratory yell coming from Sahale’s summit. About 20 minutes later I saw two climbers on the east ridge and soon they were headed down the snow. In 10 more minutes they were at the moraine and heading down the arm. Since I was feeling good and it looked close, I decided to go for it and quickly changed into my boots, climbing togs, threw some stuff in my pack and headed for the summit at around 4. By 4:20 I was on the east ridge and began climbing up the loose rock toward the summit. Above the highest snow patch on the south face, I traversed left onto the south face and started climbing the steep and loose. I moved right into a chimney, emerged, then back left and up to a rappel/belay. I left my ice axe clamped to the biner at the station and headed up. The quality of the rock, the exposure, the class 5 climbing, and being alone on the mountain focused my attention. As I climbed I started worrying about down climbing what I was going up. By that time a cloud had moved in and the summit began to be obscured. At 5 o’clock I reached the top and looked north to Boston Basin and saw only gray. In my gripped state, I immediately set out to get off the mountain and noticed a rappel station a few feet down from the summit. I went to it and started down climbing carefully. I ended up at the next rap station, grabbed my ice axe, and delicately headed down to the snow on the south face. I got on the steep and soft snow, faced in and kicked steps for about 50 feet down to the loose chossy rock and traversed back to the east ridge. I was in camp by 6:30. I was pretty disappointed that the view to the north was socked in but happy that I finished the climb. I relaxed with a peanut butter sandwich, a big hershey bar, and delicious filtered mountain water. Clouds blew in and out for the rest of the evening and the wind was strong. Wednesday morning I was on the trail at 7 and strolled down the Sahale Arm. The clouds had settled below the mountains to the west. I crossed Cascade pass for the seventh time in my life and was at the car by 11:30 heading back to Puyallup. More photos to follow in my gallery... Gear Notes: Helmet, Ice Axe, Crampons (not used but snow was hard in the morning before the sun hit and would be necessary) Approach Notes: Trail virtually snow free from parking lot to glacial moraine camp

WOW!

There's an article about this in the new Climbing Issue 250 Collector's Edition, p.24. The article relates that in 1986 "local climbers," fearing Todd Skinner was close to making the climb, poured motor oil down the crack to prevent this from happening. Skinner used a blowtorch to burn out the oil but missed some at the top and had top bail to Godzilla.

Unfortunately this is the second time for me I've been up there and back. At least this time I saw the peak... A couple moire pics here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=6708

Climb: Boston Basin Forbidden Peak-taking the pigs for a walk Date of Climb: 7/5/2006 Trip Report: On Wednesday, July 5, 2006 Eric Mohler and I headed up to Boston Basin to climb Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge. Our hopes soared high as we broke out into the meadows in bright sunshine to magnificent views of Torment, Boston, Sahale, and Johannesburg. As we approached the high camp in Boston Basin, clouds started forming and by the time we reached the camp we were the audience to a concerto of thunder which soon became a symphony. We hurriedly set up the tents but fortunately we were spared from a downpour though it did start sprinkling. A NOLS group of 10 was at the high camp. A couple of the students came over. They had climbed to the Sahale-Boston col earlier but turned back from climbing Sahale when they saw the threatening weather on the other side of the ridge. They had been out for a month and were heading out the next day. They were a very nice group of kids. Within another hour clouds started rolling in from below to join up with the thunderclouds and we were soon in a whiteout and not to see Forbidden again. In the evening I got out of the tent and my hair started standing on end and tingling from the electrically charged atmosphere. Thunder persisted through the night. The clouds never lifted and we awoke in a white out and mist. We hung out for awhile hoping the weather would improve but it didn't. One couple did head up toward the climb. We decided to bail as we did not think the weather was going to improve which proved correct. We were totally soaked by the end of the two and half hour trip back down to the car. Of course the weather looks great today (Friday) as I sit in Puyallup... Approach Notes: Trial is snowfree all the way to high camp

"Is that chockstone the one there's that famous Ira Spring photo of Beckey chimneying above?" "I don't think so Dru, it seems like it would be much bigger than the width someone could chimney. We were a ways off though..." The beckey photo is of the master on Rocket Peak

She wasn't on the route next to yours was she? Edit:Not work safe

should have told the cops you were fishing for mudsharks...

"Nice TR and awesome photos!!!" The photos are even made more remarkable in their rarity from that vantage. What a great view of Bonanza Peak.

Congratulations. What an accomplishment! "...the summit register which was placed in May, 1939 by Mountaineers Anderson, Kelley, and Crooks (whoever they may be)." That would be Lloyd Anderson. He founded a company called REI. He, along with Jim Crooks and Clint Kelley, did the first ascent of Sinister. Anderson and Crooks did the first ascent of Forbidden Peak and took the young Fred (and Helmy) Beckey under their wings. committed

Climb: Dragontail-East Ridge via aasgard Pass Date of Climb: 6/20/2006 Trip Report: On Tuesday morning, June 20 I headed up to Aasgard pass to climb Dragontail by the East Ridge. During the afternoon, the route up to the pass was largely covered in soft, good step-kicking snow. I have to admit that as this was my first mountain outing this year, I was plenty tired when I reached the top. I set up my Zoid just south of the pass in an area visually dominated by the Witches Tower. As the sun lowered, the snow started hardening and within a couple of hours it was set. The clear sky was accompanied by temperatures low enough at 7800 ft to make ice in my water bottle. By 6:30 on Wednesday I was in my crampons and on my way up to the Dragontail saddle at 8490 ft. From the saddle I saw a set of tracks traversing the headwall below the ridge and climbing. I followed and found myself at the west end of the mountain underneath the short gully leading to the col that jumps over to the Colchuck col. By then I figured it out and traversed over to the spur above the Dragontail saddle and headed up to the summit. By the time I headed back down to the saddle the snow had softened and I glissaded down to the floor and headed to my camp to filter some water. I then headed over to little Annapurna and walked up to the top. Upon arrival I saw the group of climbers I observed from camp below except for one man on the summit, a Russian. He told me that the party that just left was led by the person who did the first free ascent of Prusik Peak and was named “Mike”. (Mike Heath?) The Russian headed off to traverse the Dragontail Plateau while I glissaded down Little Annapurna and headed to camp. I later saw him as he headed over and above Witches Tower and emerged atop Dragontail saddle and came down. Another cold and clear night Wednesday. Thursday I headed out early and cramped 90% of Aasgard Pass straight down on hard snow. With the pig I was carrying it was murder on my knee. (The poor thing is still ballooned.) I then overshot turning off and ended up just above the shore in the vine maple/slide alder (whatever) and bushwhacking. Fun times. Took this old man 7 hours from tent to limping to the car. I remember being able to do it in less than 4 hours no prob... Pictures are in my gallery here http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=6708&password= Gear Notes: crampons, ice axe, ski poles

they are predicting the road will be open all the way on july 1.

It would be great to have my name spelled correctly. In the current edition of the red book, Fred spells my name "Hensen"--turning me into some sort of scandie type. Correct spelling: Henson-- like the muppet guy. Molar Tooth: East Face. Reference: The American Alpine Journal:vol36, 1994; p.134 Thanks for passing this along. Keith Henson

Each person: 2 person tm on isolated glacier: minimum: 2 pulleys (one can be smaller than the other); 2 prusiks (+ 2 prusik slings); 3 biners; 2 anchors (e.g., picket and ice ax). This allows each person to construct a "z" pulley (3 to 1) self-jamming prusik system. I have the prusik slings used for climbing out of the crevasse attached to the rope (the longer one ahead of the shorter), and the hanging parts coiled and stuffed in a pocket. I keep my prusiks used for extricating my partner, pulleys, and biners on my harness, or on a sling over my shoulder.These items must be immediately accesible because first task after stopping the fall is getting in the anchor and attaching a prusik to the rope and anchor to unweight the rope. Hope this isn't too elementary. This was taught to me by Tim Wilson.

Climb: Fortress Mountain-East Ridge Date of Climb: 7/14/2005 Trip Report: On Thursday, July 14, 2005, I left Trinity under blue skies and started up the old Red Mountain mining road heading toward Fortress Peak with the intention of climbing the east ridge. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=11874&sort=7&cat=500&page=1 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 4-1/2 hours later I pitched the Zoid at 6500 feet on the headwall of the Chiwawa Basin between Red and Chiwawa Mountain. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 At 7:15 on Friday I began the couple mile hike toward the base of Fortress, traversing the headwall at the 6400-6600 foot level on hummock and polished glacial slabs, and very occasionally, snow. I was concerned to see lenticular clouds to the southeast and later to see rain falling in the distance. By the time I crossed the toe of the south ridge of Chiwawa and began climbing toward Fortress, the blue ski ahead was replaced by gray. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 I was thankful to reach the excellent snow as I climbed toward the east ridge. However, there was a couple hundred feet of no snow and I found myself on a steep and dangerous mix of dirt, gravel, and big boulders. I gingerly made my way to the right and climbed on big, loose, and treacherous boulders—slightly safer. I was thankful to reach the final couple hundred feet of steep snow leading to the east ridge. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 When I topped out at the ridge at around 8300+ feet, my heart sank at the view. Rain clouds were moving in swiftly below me on the nearby peaks and I could see rain falling. Though only a couple hundred feet vertical and a quarter mile away from the summit, I decided to turn back. For me, solo climbing dictates a conservative approach. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 Before long, Fortress was swallowed by clouds and by the time I reached the toe of Chiwawa’s south ridge it was sprinkling. The sprinkle turned to rain which continued all night and even until I stood in the parking lot at Trinity on Saturday at 9:30 A.M. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 Gear Notes: Gear: Ice axe, helmet, ski pole. gaitors would have been nice

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=6708

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=6708

Here's the pictures, I hope, to go with my trip report

On Tuesday, June 21, 2005, Ed Lansing, Keith Henson, and Jim Yoder started up the Fryingpan Creek trail in bright sunshine but low pressure and declining weather predicted for the afternoon toward Little Tahoma. At the check in at the ranger station we also learned that there was high avalanche danger (the Interglacier had slid the day before) and lots of post holing. From Summerland we went beyond the usual scramble up to Meany Crest and headed into the cirque just beyond and gained the ridge line on the east side of the cirque. Upon arriving on the ridge we found ourselves in a rainstorm and clouds. Continuing on the ridge, we camped at 7200 feet at the foot of the slot free Fryingpan Glacier at a tarn with running water. Though the rain abated, we ate our dinner and went to bed in a whiteout. At 3:00 A.M. on Wednesday we looked out and saw clear skis up toward Rainier but a sea of nasty looking black clouds covering the valleys below to the east. Heading up at 4:30 in warm weather, the snow was hard and we cramponed easily and swiftly up the Fryingpan Glacier. This didn't last long. By the time we were at 8000 feet and the sun was up, we started breaking through and post holing with increasing frequency making for very difficult (and slow) traveling. At around 9:00 and 10,000 feet, and after moving trough the col to the Whitman Glacier, the weather began to deteriorate as the clouds rose, eventually enveloping us in a whiteout. As we approached the summit, snow was falling briskly. Now the rope came out of the pack as we belayed the final few feet up the wet rock tower. Jim summitted at 10:15--5 hours after leaving base camp. Making haste after we after all summitted and signed the register at around 10:45, we headed down in a snow storm and with visibility at about 75 yards max . The traverse across the Fryingpan Glacier after crossing the col was especially scary as the snow laden avalanche prone slopes hovered above and the snow slid from our feet down the slop forming giant donuts as we post holed back toward camp. So much snow fell that more than half of our tracks were obliterated--especially where we had cramponed on hard snow. Of course we wanded the route on the way up but route finding was still a challenge on the big featureless glaciers. Jim's adroit route finding got us back to the tent at about 4:00. After 11 hours on the climb we all headed into the tent out of the snow/rain and took a nap. Wednesday night the sky cleared and everything froze. The descent was uneventful except for a black bear in the trail that came too close for my comfort (Jim and I scampered up into the woods!) before finally veering off the trail about 60 feet from Ed snapping away flash pictures. I hope you enjoy the pictures.