nad lowe, don't be such a pussy and climb the n. ridge, complete. the top is a mere 1/3 of the stunning n. ridge (and much less vertical). if you want to get some good lichen smearing, i recommend the bottom half. if you are hell bent on climbing only the top, bring cramps, the glacier is an icy mess. i wouldn't sweat the gully. oh, yeah, bring containers for much aqua.
p.s. good luck.