OlegV

Thanks for coming guys. Hey, we still got this Russian X-mass ahead of us! As my wife said, no food this time, only vodka and pickles. Plenty to enjoy this time, Kevin. I am surprised, you couldn't go to bed, Pete. I felt like my brain was temporary removed.

Some pictures from our last trip. At Paradise Up Approaching Camp Muir at sunset Gib Rock Summit Jason at the Crater Rim Oleg at Crater Rim

Sound great- I'll see if I can free up some time. Happy New Year!

Hey Adrian/Bogen, nice to here from you again! I can't believe how sensitive these people are to any innocent comment! Just let me know when the conditions are right and we can do any crazy climb in BC!!! It is all about weather and partners, isn't it? How about Canadian Rockies this winter? NF of Robson? Anytthing without long slog.

I am under deep impression, one’s ranking on cc.com climbing board (like “stranger” or “newbie”) is based entirely on how active he is in polishing his pants sitting in front of a computer - not actually climbing.

Great TR Jason! I’d say this trip proofs climbing mountains is all about weather conditions. No complains here. Of cause, more importantly, great partners. I would’ve got lost on the way back - terrains looked somewhat sketchy to me. Can’t wait for the next good weather window to try something more challenging on Rainier. This Nissqually icefall looked interesting and totally undoable. One more thing. Mike, we were a little concern about poor ventilation in the hut. We did see a bunch of holes in the sealing but they were clogged with snow and ice. We did keep a door half way open when we cooked but during the night it was closed. I slept on the upper shelf and smelled a lot of gas in the air. I can imagine during winter storm it is impossible to keep vents clear from snow. What do you think?

We had the same experience climbing Reid Headwall with MtHigh this Friday. I've got hit twice by big chunks of ice, once in my neck (below my helmet) and once in my knee. Still hurts. Other than non-stopping meteor shower, it was a fun route.

Hey Justin, check your PMs.

We left Timberland under clear sky Tuesday morning. At Illumination Saddle, it got so nasty, we couldn't stand upright. We had to crawl down in a vague south direction. Thanks to my partner and compass, we found Palmer in whiteout.

Sandy Glacier headwall OR Leuthold Couloir OR Cathedral Ridge tomorrow night. The routes should be well frozen with temps in low 20s, clear sky, low wind. PM Justin_RR or me if interested!

The road was open.

Climb: Mt. Hood-Cooper Spur Date of Climb: 12/18/2004 Trip Report: Nothing else to do, I went up to Cooper Spur today to check on Tilly Jane ski trail. Took me about an 1.5 hour to get to a Tilly Jane cabin. The trail is in pretty bad condition: water over ice plus mud. With very little fresh snow and coming low temp, it will be a skating ring. Cooper Spur looked potentially fabulous - ice with very little loose powder. Could be low avalanche conditions next week (if it gets cold). I turned around at 8500 ft because i was baking in sun and didn't want to take a sliding fall into Eliot. Lets hope for Siberian cold for the next two weeks! Gear Notes: no gear needed up to this point. Approach Notes: Tilly Jane ski trail

I'm interested. Check your PM. Oleg

I heard, there is a "short" 3 mile trail going straight from the bottom road to a trail head. One could park a car at the lodge and hike for about 1-2 hours. Are there any other cross-country ways to get to Cooper Spur?

I am planning to climb Shuksan during the last week of December. If the weather and snow conditions are good, I would attempt NF. Otherwise, Sulphade Glacier could be an easier alternative. I am also open to any other possibilities, like Rainier, Eldorado, Logan. PM me if interested. Oleg

How was the road conditions? Is it still passible to 4 WD?

Did you summit?

We were so way off the route!! That crevasse field looked pretty broken.

Great pics, nice camera, perfect story Adrian! It's funny, all that time I kept staring at the broad snow slope of a high peak on the very right of Weart . It must've been Wedge Mt. Sh*t happens when you don't think straight. I loved BC after all!

I might be interested. I have limited rock climbing skills though. Let me know if you are interested in Stuart or any other peaks.

Is anybody interested in climbing Rainier on a Turkey day weekend? Standard route or something more challenging.

Anyone got experience with these bags on cold winter slopes? I mean actually sleeping outside in a bivy bag? I need a warm bag to serve me in subfreezing mountain conditions of North West and Alaska. NF Tundra and Darkstar caught my attention as affordable and relatively cheap bags. My only concern is their compressibility. Any thoughts on similar or better -20F or below synthetic bags in the same price range? Thanks a lot.

Sounds great! I don't think we're going to race up the Rainier. Lon suggested to practice crevasse rescue on Hood (Nov 20) before we go up Rainier. I've taken a long glacier travel course last summer and haven't practiced since. Should be fun. Besides, it's only an hour from the trailhead to the Eliot Glacier. I was gonna ask Lon if he wants to crush at my place in Portland a night before. Feel free to join us on Eliot (but you don't have to). Which route on Rainier would you like to attempt?

Thank you! Sorry Ivan, I had a typo in my previous post. I climbed the red line, and downclimbed the green line. This av could be a fracture from kicking steps. The snow felt kind of empty underneath the crust. I think I saw you on top of cliff when I was doing traverse, MtnHigh.

You are very welcome! I did climb the red line and downlimbed the red line. Thanks to the weather!