Dechristo

Fats, ditto Syudla's comment about the position of Carl's Camp... it felt as if the bivy was suspended high in the middle of that amazing cirque out of reach of avalanche and rockfall. And though I did fight off Syudla's numerous amourous advances, still, his choice of building another platform was not due to his disappointed romance-aimed ego nor his fears of receiving another pummelling for his ill-placed affections. His choice of building another platform around the boulder from your twin-sized construction was due to the pestilent pile of poop he left under one of the platform's pavers while on our way up to the Col. As I prepared for the night on that now malignant bed, I begged he tell me the location of his bowel bomb, but, to no avail. Location by nose-tation was pointless... the whole site was enveloped in a toxic cloud that reeked of three-day-dead animals and partially-digested cheap cheese. I found the hidden offending pile later as I lay in my bag. A paver that initially offered resistance to my hip slowly oozed lower to comform to my comfort. Also, Syudla's radioactive deposit had not come close to reaching its half-life providing a subtle heat to the platform. I put my earplugs in my nostrils, breathed through a balaclava, and settled in for good night's sleep... and prayed my sleeping pad would peel free from the platform in the morning.

in one...

all the photos...

how to attach...

I don't know...

as you can tell...

again

Some photos from the climb

My fucking elbow is still sore from the knock it took during the tumble I took during one of the rappells off.

You kick ass.

And look for the spiced-fat-stuffed horse intestine. I liked that, but, I found the intestine itself like chewing a big rubber band.

"A good lesson about not climbing alone and pushing bouldering beyond ones ability." Acceptance of cognizant and potential risk is generally allowed as a personal decision. All people establish their own parameters of acceptable risk and participate, or do not participate, in activities according to their judgement. To drive a car, or not to drive a car. To travel by flight, or not to travel by flight. To drink from another's glass, or... not. I, personally, do not concur with your assessment of solo climbing to be an unacceptable risk. The motivation for your post may stem from a true concern for others, but, it judges and dictates a restriction of freedom of personal choice. As for the warning of climbing beyond one's abilities... well, I think you've lost or have never known what climbing is really all about. If I misunderstand you, my apologies.

"There were amazing, wild, unbelievable strobe-light techno flashing aurora borealis in the night sky." Syudla and I saw the same mind-blowing spectacle that night from Sunny Knob in the Wadds. Sounds like you guys had a great time. Good show. Seems like I'm hearing more and more guys wishin' they'd brought both technical axes.

You guys were welcome to the slings... you earned them. Syudla and I did what we believe to be a new line to the climber's left of the slings between the Keyhole Route and NW Corner Route incorporating as much ice into the ascent as was practical. Good on ya for signing the registry in blood. Syudla and I just shrugged pretty much about the lack of a pencil, although, I still get a chuckle considering his frustration in having left a pencil in the tent. You guys did a considerable amount of good work in accomplishing this traverse. Great Job.

You know, you're right Syudla. I did say because of my condition I was concerned that I would only kill you or me or the both of us. BUT, in retrospect, I don't know how that would have happened (short of me sticking you with an axe) because we were soloing everything. After what you and I soloed all the way up to the col, I felt like we could have soloed the north face of Serra V. Shit, we just about did. On the first two leads, you'll remember, I placed only one piece of pro per lead. I think you only placed two, maybe three, on the last lead to the summit. We were so empowered by the Absolute Beauty of the entirety of what we'd climbed through, what we were climbing, and by the crystalline focus on what we were doing at the moment that I often recognized a quick thought of the rope and pro being extra baggage. Do you remember our bravado in saying, "we only carry ropes for rappelling"? Funny how quickly those sentiments would have dissipated had I taken a good whipper! Do you think we should inform future visitors of Carl's Camp of the location of the toxic waste dump you made? Syudla is an excellent, savy, and considerate climbing partner. Any would count themselves fortunate to have his company. Thanks for your graciousness in allowing me to bow out when I deemed it necessary.