Kevin_Matlock
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Posts posted by Kevin_Matlock
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Nice shots Steve. Glad to meet you, Jonathan, and Brad up there and thanks for the the climb guys (and I suppose you, too, Jon
)I'll post my pics and a few links to some vids of the Bowling Alley/Summit later on.
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PM me with the brand and what was in the stuff sack and I'll send it to you.
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Hey, when ya'll go up from Pole Cr this time of year what route do you take up onto the N Sister ridge? Do you go up the trail to the creek then up and through the gap between the N and Middle on the glacier and turn up onto the ridge from there or is there an easier way onto the ridge? Seems the glacier route east side is mighty busted up by this time of year. Do you find it an advantage to approach via Pole Cr rather than Obsidian TH?
We've been attempting it (and will attempt againg tomorrow) via the SE Ridge. Seems the most direct route from any you have described.
I've been up Obsidian many times before and Pole Cr probably saves you a good 2 miles it seems (maybe more, possibly less).
The gap between Mid and North would be way out of the way; the Thayer would be sketch this time of year. For the most part, taking the SE shouldn't put you on much of any snow or ice.
We are just going Pole Cr to the creek, then taking the camp lake trail for maybe 10-15 mins, then b-line east which eventually poops you out of the trees and in pretty good proximatey to head up the base of the ridge. That's been our MO so far.
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... I got yer headwall right here buddy!!!!!
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We WILL take care of bidness this w/e!!! If the weather craps on us, Jon is free to descend and come back for his 4th (5th? 12th? 127th?) attempt, but I plan on relocating my house to the SE ridge and will work my way up over the course of the next 3 months with hopes of finally gaining the summit sometime before Christmas.
I'm not counting on this summit being one for the views, it's more so I can tear this page out of the guide book and light it on fire.
Wish us luck.
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Grivel also makes their screws' threads like in figure A. Their reasoning is that by applying the load on the hypotenuse of the triangle the force is distributed over a greater surface area and thus reduces the chance of pulling out the screw.
Grivel's screws are awesome. Irbis Titaniums (the Russian screws you mention) suck big time. Nothing personal, but compare the
- # of teeth (Irbis = 3, everyone else = 4)
- diameter of the screw (Irbis < everyone else)
- thread relief, i.e. how much the threads stick out from the tube of the screw (Irbis < everyone else)
- screw length (I think Irbis are <16cm)
I used to have one of these Russian Death Screws and finally got rid of it before it got rid of me. Not only are they frustratingly difficult to place in hard water ice, they are jing of the first order. If I were you I would worry much more about the overall quality of this screw than the direction the thread bevel faces.
Righty tighty, lefty loosey.
Good info and not taking it personal.
The ones I have aren't Irbis though, mine are Uralsport and they aren't as shitty as my shitty leavers by comparison. They place well enough and have a slight outward taper on the inside diamater so they tend to be clog-resistent.
My only real gripe is comparing it to a BD screw I have it's pretty easy to tell which one would last longer (BD steel!). But I hear ya calling them a death screw; no way to exactly guarantee their quality control.
When I get a chance, I'll post some pics of the Uralsport screws for comparison.
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Another post regarding ice screws got me thinking about a question I've had for a while now.
A few years ago I bought some Russian Titaniums and they have the threads cut "backwards".
This was intentional, or so they claim, and was suppose to be some greatest-thing-since-sliced-bread sort of deal, but I have never seen this on any main stream screw before. I can only think that the bevel was cut reversed to allow for easier placement.
Consider my funky drawing -
Notice how with my Rusky screws ("A") the thread's sloped face points towards the hanger. To me this seems like they would pull out much easier than a nromal screw ("B") where you would have the resistance of the perpendicular cut threads holding against the ice.
Am I wrong here? Anybody see this type of cut before? Did I buy some F'd up seconds that claim to be the second coming?
Have never fallen on them to know if they would hold a whipper or not; anybody want to volunteer to be a crash test dummy?
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did both; didn't much matter as the hauler was already sold.
farrgo - how 'bout you update your sale as items sell!
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Looks like a nice trip.
Too bad your brother died clearly due to your lack of belaying ability. **SPLAT**
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liked it so much it's now a sticker on the front of my helmet.
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What's your source - someone who has gone up recently or people who have gone up this time of year in the past?
I'd rather year from the former if you know of any individuals.
just wonderin'
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Porter believes he has an idea of what is going on with the 'harward part 1' page and will correct it in the next couple of days, but all the rest appear to be ok.
Technical issues aside, lots of info to be had for sure. Good job and thanks for everyone's efforts putting it together.
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And... AAAAHHHH! Maybe a little too early to call it prime-time?
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The images no worky. Nice effect when clicking the "thumbnail", but the frame is just a white box. I see the next/prev when I mouse over the corners, but don't actually see the larger image.
Maybe just a problem for me here at work????
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I'm all over that wall hauler!
PMs
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I've suffered with this in varying degrees for years.
Do take advil.
Don't walk around bare foot (barefeet outside for the day equals death for me).
Do stretch (and run the heel of your hand on the arch of your foot to stretch the tendon).
Do ice the contact point of the tendon to your heal bone.
Don't forget to wear your orthodics in your shoes/boots (or whatever shoe inserts you use).
Do force yourself to take breaks from training when it's acting up.
If I do the preceeding items I generally am pain-free.
For me this is just something I have to live with so my steps are just to keep it in check and not to "cure" the condition. Hell maybe I should look into the "cylinder of pain" that your wife used!
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Were you heading up the Dome to get in some turns?
Yep. Pretty good conditions still, although it's melting out really fast.
Were you the group of 2 girls/2 guys we talked to? A boarder said pretty much the same thing.
I'm trying to decide how to get around it. You can always go way up and cross the Eliot. But I'm wondering if you can drop down some, do some bushwacking and cross lower down.
I wouldn't go down low; looks way too much of a hassle. When we were scoping it out crossing the elliot still looked like it would be out of the way, but much more doable than down low. Going with the elliot probably would add a couple miles to the loop and 90 mins of some navigation; maybe less. Going low might be quicker, but infinitely more difficult.
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diggin' those shots!
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Jonboy... awesome! Way to getterdone!!!
Sorry I was lazing in the Grecian sun (just got back today, been awake for the past 50 hours, will tell you all about it on Wed when I return to the office).
Since the younger kid lives up that way, I can show you the "secret" way to avoid that hell-hole known as Toppenish.
Alex and the rest of WA are retards for their ghey sales tax... I never know how much something is going cost me without having to whip out the calculator.
And I especially wouldn't want to be troubled to pump my own gas... I might chip a nail or something. ::
Good job on staying productive in the hills.
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Wow. You mean you this ax was INTENTIONALLY warped?
i think i noted the tone of sarcasm with his post (I hope).
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Sorry, just getting to this now. Since PaulO posted the gallery link, I won't post them all here, but some look particularly relavent to the route....
(Brent, feel free to comment on any in particular)
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Hey, good job on your summit. Pretty brave of you taking up a bunch of strangers, too! Woulda freaked me out a bit, but you made it work. Congrats.
I'd love to see some of your shots of the travers and/or bowling alley. If it's easier for you, you can just email some to me and I'd be happy to post them here for ya - kevinmatlock at yahoo
thanks!
Dino, not need to talk me into it; by the time I had water/beer/sandwich in me at the car, I was already thinking about the next attemp. I really should seek professional help!!!
BTW, gotta new plan for the next crack at it.
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Sure thing! Good job on your "new" route, too.
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Paulo (or anybody else for that matter), you been on Jefferson's south traverse before? Comparable? Easier/harder?
Jon and I were on this last year and we were trying to make some sort of guess as to how they might compare. From your description, the traverse on north sounds much easier; Jeff's sucked and was the loosest slope that I've ever had the displeasure of being on.
Just wondering how they stack up.
This is contrary to almost all info I've ever read, but so far I'm going to go down on record as saying that north is more difficult (frustrating) than Jefferson.
North Sister route conditions?
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Because it was easier to climb than if it were covered in shitty, thin ice and/or varied sluff.
If the snow on top were consolidated, then I'd call it a climb reserved only for the those with confidence with some gnar snow exposure. Never been up there in covered conditions, but it looks like it would be intimidating as hell.
At least with it dry it's just a scramble with, yes, the odd death missle above that could potentially end things really quick if you are a bumble and not being at least a little carefull.
I'll go down on record as saying North Sister is no where near as sketchy as Jefferson in late summer. Period.
Does that mean that I'd climb Jefferson again without snow coverage? Hell no, they both sucked ass.
But the hardest part of North was the freaking scree treadmill that you had to fight up which, even in late spring, can still be melted off so no mater what, you still have to deal with it.
Spring, summer, fall, winter..... other than simply saying "I did it", there is NO good time or reason to "flock" to this mountain.