Kevin_Matlock
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Posts posted by Kevin_Matlock
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I've seen this come and go, fast one minute then slow the next.
Currently pretty quick though!
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When? Pretty much when they don't feel smooth or you think This topic has been covered fairly well before... might want to do a search.
I did, no dice.
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When? Pretty much when they don't feel smooth or you think they may bind.
How? I use the metolious cleaning kit but others don't like to buy this kit. This topic has been covered fairly well before... might want to do a search.
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Love these type of DIY posts (rare on CC.com). Good work Chad!
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I just sucked it up yesterday; figured I'd give it a whirl and return it if it didn't last.
Used my 20% it ran me only $79!
One of my issues was that they only had a single med size the first day I went and look... I wanted a large. Having the chick at the counter look up their stock didn't do me a bit of good since she said that's all they had.
After I went yesterday to pick that med one up I found a few more including a large! The lesson here is it pays to look around no matter what their system claims.
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How the hell did your ski end up in a tree?!
Well, DUH! Isn't it obvious?
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Do tell!
I was surprised by the number of load adjustment straps. Made me think that you could dial it in pretty well so the fit was the least of my worries.
Interesting....
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Would be interesting to see how many volunteers from the aeronautics community volunteered to help with the rescue.
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Looked at this yesterday. Seems pretty feature-rich and perfect for a day climb (probably could swing a single night in a pinch).
Besides all the bells and whistles, anybody have any experience with this pack's reliability? Just wondering how long it will last. Not worried about the "return factor" since it IS, after all, REI. I'm just wondering if I should expect this pack to blow out mid-climb. Would like to know before plunking down my hard-earned 20%-off membership coupon!
Any other impressions?
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This year's line is setting up different.... the hog's is lined up left; reminiscent of what I've read ahout "the olden days" when the old chute WAS the normal route. I bet we are in a transition phase where the south climb moves around over the course of time; looks like it's on the move again maybe eventually to setup like it was in the 30's-50's.
True, it's only moved maybe 50' to the left (west) so far, but it sets up the ascent through the pearly gates all wrong. Also exposes a natual funnel down onto the unsuspecting.
I've seen most people head up the old chute so far this year. Not having done this specific route up, to me it does appear to be a slight bit tougher. I've seen a couple take a high line up, maybe too high in fact, which looks like a traverse at maybe 45 degree for about 100 meters.
Still likely the easiest way up, and not hard by most standards, but maybe just hard enough that it keeps the hordes from summitting??? Time, and I'm sure the 5 o'clock news, will tell.
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Anybody know the harm with a single twin line for glaciers or as a safety line on 4.hard/5.easy?
It's what I indend to use on this type of terrain and the weight of the rope is hard to beat.
Pretty much looking for protection from "slipping-type falls" and not full whippers when a stronger cord is clearly called for.
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Just wondering though, do you think you are actually SAFER smoking than not?
not climbing, but driving - an anecdote: coming back from beacon rock one sunny afternoon in a most enlightened state of mind, while also sipping a cold frosty one from the elegant skamania market, i got cut off by some jackass pulling out onto 14 in washougal - usually i'm a very aggressive driver, and in an entirely sober state would no doubt have speed up, yelled at the guy, and tried to pass him. instead, i just turned up "kinky reggae" and went back to jam'n. about 30 seconds later, the jackass, now a good 200 yards ahead of me, gets in a near fatal accident. the car in front of him bizarrely decides to cut a u-turn w/o checkign his mirror, and he t-bones it at 50 mph. if i had been sober, i'd have been up there, racing along at 70 or so. as it was, i was able to calmly set my pale ale down while slowly steering my way through the debris cloud, laughing my ass off (not saying my enlightenment makes me a better human being).
this kind of thing is very true in the alpine - the weather looks iffy and scary - i'm stoned, i'll be extra cautious
at the crag - paranoia - double check knot, gear, shoes, helmet, holds, everything. it certainly doesn't improve my climbing technique though! i've probably ended up welding my feet and hands in cracks more frequently while feeling The Fear.
Well there you go.... a pretty reason to smoke it if you got it!
I have to admit Ivan, you make a good (or at least interesting) point. Thanks for the insight.
Maybe it would do me some good too if I were to rehook up with Mr. Stinky since I often experience said "fuck you-ism" on the road. Wonder if it would help!?!?!
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Calm down John, I'm saying that the Oregon climbing forum has been unusually quiet compared to the other regional forumns.
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Yeah, I've seen TRs like you and Timmy have posted, but figured I should stir the pot of the ol' ORE forum.
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It's been a while since any new posts or TRs in the ORE forum.
Just wanted to know why we aren't representing?!?!?! Looks like our WA, CA, AK brothers have been somewhat busy.
Couldn't be the conditions, there's snow all over the NW and people are still getting out.
I'm tempted to post a TR on my next climb up on a bar stool just to keep things interesting.
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Yep, unsafe climbers are going to be unsafe regardless... drunk, stoned, or otherwise. No arguments there.
And for those with the "there was a guy one time...", how do you know? Were you there? Rummors? Legends? Seems retarded for somebody to talk about a previous accident with no basis for what (if any) drugs may have been involved.
Experiences speak volumes. For me, I am speaking from my own experience when I say that "for me, never again". I just didn't function clearly enough when stoned. Scared the shit out of me after I sobered up. Besides it makes me not perform worth a shit.
Those of you that do, more power to you; whatever works for ya man. My original point was "just never understood the seemingly higher percentage of those who partake in the climbing community". Somebody said on a previous page that it could be because we tend to be more open. Makes sense I guess.
Just wondering though, do you think you are actually SAFER smoking than not? There seems to be a few who are suggesting this. I'd like to hear the logic with this. To simply say "I'm less afraid" seems foolish. Please identify yourself while climbing so I know to turn around and get the fuck out of there. I'd rather be around a mellow stoned climber than a fearless stoned climber!
Not exactly the same, but a loose comparison could be made with drunk driving.... it's not only you who is being effected. If you drop a cam on someone's head because you are too busy packing your bowl, are we suppose to feel better about it somehow? Not looking to change anybody's lifestyle and you will do what you want to do... it's what makes our society great. But there should be some amount of acknowledgement by those who smoke that in their altered state they can't always make a "clear headed" decision due specifically because, maybe, just this one time, you took one too many hits.
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Ok, I have to confess I got Bill on this topic in the first place; I sort of bash another one of his posts earlier today.
(Bill... good idea to broach the topic here in spray)
The whole pot issue for me is a little larger than just climbing... sure I used to toke a fair amount WHEN I WAS A KID, but I grew out of it. It amazes me that "adults" still have the need to smoke.
But even with that said, specifically to the climbing community, the ratio of smokers-to-non has gotta be like twice the ratio for regular population! What gives?
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Most of the other altimeter watches only read up to high 13k'. I did a climb in Nepal and needed one that went well beyond that (I think mine tops around 30k').
It seems very accurate, but of course you need to mind taking a base reading at a known elevation when you start out... really no diff than any other barometric pressure-based altimeter.
The vectors only cost $150-$200.
With it's built in compass I find it pretty cool and useful watch. My only reservation is on technical climbs when I'm bending my wrist a lot, I find that the back of my hand presses buttons and I'm constantly finding that I'm in "logging mode" which eats the battery quicker.
Expect to replace the battery about once a year; not a big deal but it's something to factor in.
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Sunto vector (watch). Works well and has other bells and whistles built in.
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5-7 day life is more like it!
But I wonder how well "remembering" really works? I know on mine I can see the sats moving around over a short time. Just makes me think that if you had the thing turned off for a couple of hours positions would have changed enough to call for a complete "re-acquire".
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Bill, sorry my bad. Your poem makes it sound like you were reliving some 'experiences'... like, you know.
But more in general to the masses then: why does it seem that climbing tends to pull out all the cheech-N-chong rejects coming down from a recent bob marley concert? Is this limitted to the crag crowds?
I guess, who really cares anyway; don't mean to hijack the thread.
Nice way to work the creativity with the poem!
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Hypothetically speaking, you see a potential way point that you suspect you would want to record but before you reach it you turn the unit on?
I have an old garmin and it takes 5 to 10 mins to fully aquire (to "3D navigation") so this would require me to either stop for this period of time at said waypoint and wait for it to be ready -OR- I've got to know in advance that I will want to record the location and will just have to turn the unit on?
I see this being an issue if you are in unfamiliar locations or when you can't see more than a few hundred yards ahead of you.
I dunno, still seems a little bit of a pain and just don't understand why they can't always be left on. Even a "low power record mode" would be nice.
Guess I should get to work inventing this!
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A fired bowl
Well..... I guess this explains the post.
Why does it seem that so many climbers are such chemical hounds? Gets pretty freaking old seeing your belayers firing up while/before you start a pitch.
Bill... being one of the elder statesmen around here that usually offers sage info, I woulda pegged you for the "argument against".
Sorry to harsh your mellow, just struck a chord this morning and I haven't entirely woken up yet.
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From the garmin link Timmy posted above....
"Battery life: Up to 12 hours"
Is this considered good? I'm in the market too and I don't really see any units that have crap for battery life.
Seems to me a person would want to turn the thing on and LEAVE IT ON while it records your trip. But based on the short battery life, it appears all the makers of GPS units expect you to (A) get to a way point location and (B) turn the device on, wait for it to aquire sats, THEN save the location.
This seems like such a hassle and not very practical. Am I missing something?
[TR] Ball Butte - West Sizide 3/15/2007
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Here's what I heard:
"blah blah blah ski... blah blah blah pow... blah blah blah INVERSION IPA ... blah blah blah some other stuff..."
God that's good shit!
Actually the skiing looks nice. You guys have full corn over there in Bend(over)? Might have to make a point to get over there.