Kevin_Matlock
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Posts posted by Kevin_Matlock
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Any thoughts on using an ice axe as a snow point anchor? I'm talking in the manner you would a picket. So in the event that you are short a picket, could you use an ice axe with relative peace of mind?
I recently read a blurb on the web stating that when setting up an anchor for crevasse rescue that using an ice axe won't work.
I understand that it may not be designed for it, but it should be stout enough and if you had the shaft driven in at an angle facing AWAY from the climber, then why shouldn't this work?
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Yes, they're mostly pathological jerks, but then not quite as bad as politicians, real estate & car salesmen--I mean salespeople (not salespersons).
Fuck it.
I'm going to step away from this pissing match. If you want to stereotype us like that, fine. You're part of the very problem you claim to disdain.
I'm glad not all climbers are the same.
Us who?
(continuing the thread creep...)
For those not local to pdx, barkernews (aka Brian Barker) is a local TV reporter.
It's easy for me or anyone else to take shots at him or his work since it's on public display; so I will refrain. Tell you what though, I sure wouldn't want MY work to be on public display; takes at least SOME balls! Not trying to fight his battles, just my .02 .
(back on topic...)
Cruise can go choke for all I care. But I fully appreciate the fact that since he can afford this, and much of the negative comments about the little shit, pretty much says that most people are jealous of the dood's bankroll and his celebrity. I know I am anyway.
If you aren't, then consider yourself a rare individual.
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at least he can affoard the 30,000$ fee
What, is that with a "sherpa coupon"????
I thought it was more like $60-$65K!
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Interested in the ice tool.
Please check your PM's.
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aprox ship weight?
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Correction: I did sar it Pa.
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Anyone doing the bunny slopes? Any room for a noob?
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I sar it Pa.
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"In the purest for of capitalism, Macy's once again is poised to mount someone from behind."
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Fine, fine...
so he did this and that for/against his country. Who gives a shit.
What I want to know is how this guy died, no, was in a comma, no, he's fine... nope, dead... did we say dead, we meant 'has really bad gas'... oh shit, NOW I guess he's dead. This time for good.
WTF? Instead of Arnie, they shoulda got him for the Terminator. The asshole would NOT stay dead.
God/budda/Mohamad/Apu rest his soul.
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One time I was waiting for an interviewee for a production job we had. He never showed up out in the plant and so I called HR. The HR chick said she did the preliminary interview and didn't want to bring him out to me and waste any of my time.
Seems he previously work at some Lynden Farms chicken processing place. When asked why he left that place he said he was fired for getting pissed off at his supervisor and throwing his carving knife at him.
I still owe that HR lady a beer!
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Check your PM's.
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I like to hook my tools on it and pull...
Is it me, or do we have the gayest sounding sport ever???
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Probably the same discussion (and paranoia) with marking your rope with said pens.
Maybe use those special rope marking pens instead.
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BTW, I'm in the upper right...
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One of me during my big-hair phase way back in the 80's. What was I thinking....
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dood, you got a sweet "trad RACK"!
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Goog job Oleg. Glad you finally got your summit!
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A climber I did an alpine thing with this past summer also had some pretty decent skiing experience. He was highly praising randonee. So, for what's it's worth, there's your third-hand opinion.
I can't find a LOT of info on the web about randonee shit, but does anybody know if the bindings work with double boots? My clip-on crampons make me think that with the lip in front/back should allow a binding to work as well.
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tex- Gumbie? Well, DUH, Captain Obvious.
ryland- I climb there 3 or 4 times a week... don't know if that's considered "not very much", but it's plenty for me. I said that "I wasn't sure" about the lead ropes... it was just a guess. Have not seen anyone bring in their own shit so I just assumed this was the case (yeah, I know what happens when you AssUMe
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This thread has been an interesting read. I'll just say up front that I've never set foot in prg, but just for comparison sake I just had some thoughts comparing prg with stoneworks (the gym I DO set foot in):
Suggestion #1: Be able to suspend a yearI don't know if SW does this or not, but I would be surprised if ANY business were to do this. I mean, the whole point of the annual "commitment" on the part of a customer is the reason why many businesses will cut you a break on the per-month rate. It's similar to a lease... you wouldn't expect an car dealer to break a lease without a penalty. But, I DO have to say that in certain cases (like going off to war) a decent business should be flexible and "do the right thing".
Suggestion #2: The PRG should supply the lead ropes.SW supplies TRs. Not sure about lead (loose) ropes. I would suspect they do though.
Suggestion #3: The PRG is too small and too busy I think to have cardio, weights, ...What's all this talk about cardio, pilates, yoga, blah blah blah. SW doesn't have shit in this regards. I think they have a single stationary bike upstairs, but that's it. They DO have awesome push-up and sit-up stations; some of you may also refer to this as THE FLOOR!!!
Honestly, if I wanted these other things I'd just go pay for the 24hr fitness membership. However, SW is quite a bit cheaper than PRG (from what I've read), so I could probably pay for both and it would come out costing about what the single PRG membership is.
Suggestion #4: More mats in the bouldering area.No problems here... SW has plenty of mats by my estimation. But I bet it's a smaller place.
Suggestion #5: More systems training like the HIT system so climbers can cause more chronic serious injury.Sounds interesting... what the hell is an "HIT system"? I have chronic aches and pains so maybe SW should get 'em!
Suggestion #6: Group pilates and yoga classes at regular times.SW's group classes are ALWAYS at a regular time: NEVER! I consider you PRG-ers lucky to have such a thing as part of your membership.
Again, just one guy's (very limited) comparision/opinion. Not affiliated with either, just a reasonably happy gym member!
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I was the first to summit the morning of the 20th aniv, May 18, 2000. Yeah, I know that's lame; but's that's all I got.
The helicopters buzzing overhead (due to the 20th anniversary) made for a suckfest.
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Plus a quicklink would probably seize if you took a hard fall onto it.
You sure about this? I mean, wouldn't you have to weigh several hundred lbs, be climbing on static rope, and take a fairly long fall to make one of these bend enough to seize the threads? Seems an average size adult falling on a dynamic rope simply wouldn't generate the needed kNs to tweak a quicklink.
What diameter of you talking about... I think mine is about a 3/8" stock.... maybe I'm just using equipment from the "dumbo the elephant collection"?
Who has been to Cloud Cap recently?
in Oregon Cascades
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Yesterday went up there with Olegv to do some ice climbing up on elliot.
The road going up was fine. I drive an AWD van with decent clearance so your milage may vary. Maybe 6" deep but good tire tracks. Got all the way up to the TH and saw a couple of 4x4 truck/SUV type doodads.
Coming down was shit though. It was dark and surprisingly icy. Ran into a small ditch and even with the driver's side tires chained up it took us a half hour to get underway again. My advice: take chains and use them if it's icy, and try to keep it under 50 mph and you should be fine.
Looks like the forecast is calling for more significant the long awaited snow so that might have been all she wrote until next year though.