Kevin_Matlock
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Posts posted by Kevin_Matlock
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I bought the last 2 in boxes yesterday. There is 1 left hanging on a hook.
Great deal... I bought a silver one (as in the pic above) 6 months ago for something like 70 forking bucks!
Thanks for the heads up... now time to recoup my losses...
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Go up the white river. After all, half of PDX can't be wrong!
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Channel 8 News showed a couple of you cats on Crown yesterday. Looked schweet! Nice work!
Any idea what time they filmed that? Just wondering. We were on it until about 11:20.
Apparently the crew was coming back from Hood River, so it was probably early afternoon. It was probably you!
Chad, when you told me you were up there I was wondering if that was you on the tube. They keep showing the video (I've seen it at least 3 times now)... keep on the lookout.
If it's you then you be famous! Will you sign my axe?
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Glad to hear that!
I gotta ask though, what was the deal there at the falls? I guess it was warmer than it felt? I was surprised to see that ice let go. And the fact that nobody else was up there implies that any others bailed? Just wondering if you had any beta on the conditions (from others perhaps)since we were looking at that for next time... until we saw your guys accident.
We spent some time up at the first foot bridge on Wahclella (Tanner?) creek. The conditions were pretty nice and we hit a secondary falls back in the woods above our first route. The conditions then totally fell apart on us within 30 or so mins. Really strange.... but alas, the wonders of gorge ice I guess.
Anyway, glad you guys are ok.
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Thanks are in order to some good samaritans for helping us get back down to the car.
Snaileye, eddieb, and myself were the 3 doods, not sure who the guy was with the boy. Glad you hauled out of there in once piece. Hell of a first-timer's experience for the wife though.
Some friendly advice though, next time leave the dog at home or bring a lease as he/she didn't make things any easier.
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FYI, Club Sport has a special offer this month for access to their rock gym only: 10-time pass (with one addition thrown in, so 11 total) for half price. That works out to $62.50, boys and girls. Not bad for a good gym. Just go up to the desk and ask for a "flash pass".
Rumor has it they are trying this program out and if sucessful they will start offering it as a normal program.
I think you need to purchase it this month, but is good for like 3 months out. A buddy said that you can purchase like up to 4 at a time, if you felt so inclined.
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It was earlier in the week (read WED). Most weeks they have some deal. Last week they offered a $3 Thursday night ski!
You gotta check them each week.
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If you could stick an M80 in 'em and "expand" them to, say, 10.5 I'd be all over them!
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Looking for folks to hookup for this Sat to check out the gorge ice that has been forming. Not looking for any epics, just some single pitch stuff (up to WI3) to run some laps on. If we can't find anything to our liking, then I'm even up for a full-weather punishment hike in the gale that they are forecasting for this weekend.
OR/WA side doesn't matter, anywhere along the gorge... it's all good.
Have car, gear, and a free day on Sat.
I'm located in Tualatin. PM me if insterested.
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me: "Can't (cough) make it (sneeze) in today, just don't feel (wheeze) any good."
boss: "Ok I guess, but you are going to miss our big meeting and I wanted that report and......." blah blah blah
Later that day...
me: "OH, boss?!?!!? What are you doing up here????"
boss: "Uhm, er... having a meeting?"
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Bump.
Yeah, I know, old post, (probably) tired subject, but just read another post that touched on the subject and figured....
What's with irresponsible dog owners? Why let your pet run unleashed. Does "oh, he's friendly" suppose to inspire confidence when he's growly at me 6" away from my nuts? And to let your dog run free while you are on the 3rd pitch yelling "no Fido, bad dog" is just retarded.
Hey, here's a thought... don't bring your dog climbing, hiking, walking, running, whatever unless you plan on keeping them under control and leashed, or you plan on me kicking the thing in the head for storming up on me.
No, I don't care for dogs... must I because you do?
[/rant]
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They show some of this on MOS V, but not the part where he falls back.
They also don't show the actual footage of his last 1500' free jump on the climbing rig when the rope decides to fail.
R-I-PFor those who haven't seen it, MOS V has an entire tribute to him with some insane shit. Go get it!
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It's what I do for aid practice. About the only additional thing I do, depending on how sketched I get, is I toss in a stopper knot on the tail end of the rope after I pull up the slack. Do this every 10 or so feet just in case the grigri doesn't catch.
There is a ton of info on this all over the place... google 'grigri self belay' and you should be all set.
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where I enjoyed a pizza and a six-pack of Lagunitas IPA
My kind of trip!
Good job on the climbs.
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Climb: [TR] Rooster Rock, columbia gorge-south side (easy) route
Date of Climb: 10/14/2005
Trip Report:
Fairly insignificant climb but wanted to post for those interested in finding the route. Once found it's an easy, enjoyable single pitch of exposed climbing (after the 1st pitch of class 4 boredom).
Free the first pitch (not must protection anyway) and set the belay on the 2 bolt anchor. Head up the obvious gully toward the east. Solid rock and easy pro make this quick work. I read somewhere this was a 5.4, felt even easier than that.
About the only real advice would be don't rap from the top mega rings. Rope drag is serious. Instead, roll the dice and rap off the single, rusty quicklink/chain setup hanging over the south face. Felt and looked ok, just sucks since I have no idea of how long that single chain has been up there.
Two fast raps gets you back down to the approach trail.
Edit: I was asked about the rope drag. The line up heads slanting east; the rap heads 15' or so to the west that line. I was solo so I had to clean on the descent. I could see the rope was getting snagged so I wasn't surprised that I couldn't pull it after the 1st rap. I reclimbed the line to free the rope. Once back on top I set the rope straight off the the south through the mass o' chains. Off the 2nd rap I tried to pull the rope and still no good. Fuck! Had to climb the line for the 3rd time (esentially free; getting frustrated at this point). Decided to try the single rap chain. It still had some drag but pulled through eventually.
So the moral of the story is don't get taken in by all the heavy duty chains lying at the top of the formation. But why else would they be here if not for rapping... are these clip in points the vertically impaired or somthun'? Anyway, don't use them unless you feel like contributing your rope to the booty call.
Gear Notes:
Pro in the 1-2" range. Single 60M is plenty.
Approach Notes:
Park by the second to last bathroom toward the west. Walk toward freeway. Continue walking through the pet run area and look for an obvious grassy access road on your right. Follow this road to the small stream running under the freeway. Cross over the top and aim up toward the side of the freeway; start walking next to the guardrail. After about 100 yards (?) look on your right for a trail through the black berries. Follow trail up for 5 or 10 mins to the base of the 4th class start.
If you get to a stance on the NE side of the rock with a snag covered in slings you are on the wrong route. I believe this is a 5.6; don't have any info on it though.
Go back down the trail and veer south and west to the south side of the formation.
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...to obtain the necessary permit for our campout.
what's the rules on this anyway? you need a permit just to hike up to muir as a day hike? is the permit for overnighters/climbing? cost?
is there a free/self-issued if you are just doing quick trip up and back?
thanks
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PVD - total FREAKIN' devistation, eh? Last week I was on the PCT and brush creek area... amazing. Only 2 yrs after the burn and at least some grass is growning back so that's better than nothin'.
Climbed TFJ last year and the first few miles in I couldn't believe how dead everything was.
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25' home wall??? Sweet!
I've been up some .7 or .8 routes but that's about the hardest. Tried 5.10 once. I'm not so much new, more like beg/intermed.
Trad - yes; sport - no. Have much of my own gear too, for what it's worth.
Anyway, got your number... I'll prolly give you a shout tomorrow. You got a preference to time 'o day?
Likely going to broughton tues or wed to do some TR aid practice.
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Hey nice work and good TR!
I've been debating on this exact same route solo (yes, dealing with parters oftens sucks). Hiked up south cinder peak a few days before your climb and got a decent view of the route and quickly decided 'fawk that!'.
Your beta has changed my mind... thanks. -
What level of climbing you after?
Only been climbing for a couple of years and the TR solo aid bullshit is getting old!
Not superman on the rock, but don't mind flailing on second. I've been told I belay 'bout as well as anyone.
Let me know if you STILL want a call....
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... oh yeah, camp at Arrowhead lake. It's on a buttress above Sunshine and offers good views and is pretty quiet. From Sunshine, just continue on the normal climbers trail gaining about 500' further up (you are climbing away from the cliff edge and toward the mountain). Once you gain the platue's elevation, cut back and start going toward the cliff. After about 1/3 mile you will see the small lake shaped like an arrowhead (wow, imagine that).
Been there many times and it's always WAY quieter than Sunshine.
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Many on this site would call it "non-technical", but consider the source!!! After all, this is primarily a "climbing resource". What one considers non-tech, or easy, is another person's everest.
Not at all trying to spark any sort of debate on this... just trying to keep you from getting in over your head.
But, to answer your question, it's really just a hard hike. Since you don't have crampons, you will likely want to approach the saddle between middle and north (collier glacier??? sorry, can't think of the name off the top of my head). Taking this route you will very likely have to cross snow (the glacier, duh) but it should be low enough angle that it won't be a prob.
Toward the top there are a few steep and loose spots that if you slipped/slid might really suck. Be aware of that. The route is easy to follow though... just look for the obvious line and boot track (practically a trail to the top).
Have fun.
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Just wondering, what was changed?
I've got a real complaint - some lame asshole censor thought it would be PC to change my fucking signature. No notice; no PM; just noticed it was changed one day.
Since when is this site PC? Tempted to change it back to spite whomever changed it!
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Sounds like you need to spend some time at a crag first. It's not the best thing to learn rock skills like anchors and placements in the alpine. I'd suggest simply learning how to climb in a toprope-type environment first BEFORE trying to tackle an alpine summit much less leading it! Besides, you can learn more in a controlled environment and hone your skills more before taking them out into the wild.
There are some easier technical climbs in OR (washington/jack/thielson) but these don't require much in the way of anchors, placements or whatever so you wouldn't be learning what you are after. And honestly, if you were to try and setup some complicated, multi-point anchor on one of the climbs I've mentioned, you are more than likely going to get a sarcastic comments or leers
from others simply trying to quickly & safely cruise the summit.
Koflax plastic boots 4SALE
in The Yard Sale
Posted
Yeah, I'm w/Arc... you got a specific model other than simply "10 and 10.5 koflax"?
I might be interested...