Kevin_Matlock
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Posts posted by Kevin_Matlock
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i have heard about dremmol tool used for sharpening. the only question is how it effects the heat treatment of the metal.
I agree that it would be easy to get carried away and mess up the grind angles, but I think that people are WAY too concerned about the temper.
I used to sharpen percision blades on a buffing/grinding wheel when I worked in this factory. They were made of tempered steel and I was able to keep this almost entirely unaffected.
Unless you heat up the metal to change the color, I doubt that you are going to do any more damage than if you simply used the tool on route. I use a speed controllable, 3" grinding wheel and it works fine. The trick of course is that you don't lay on the wheel and watch all the pretty shades of red that are on display!
All I do is "brief application, check the results, brief application, check the results..."-type of thing. You could also have a small cup of cold water or maybe an air nozzle blowing on it to keep it cool if you are really paranoid.
Like everything in life, it's all about moderation.
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Hmmm... for a second I thought this was gonna be post about Disturbed!
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I've bought and used my fair share of used climbing gear! If it's been treated nice, then I don't see any problem with that. I normally keep it limited to metal items though... I try to steer clear of used "soft" gear like ropes/slings/harnesses/whatnot.
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For those who may not have seen this before and since you mentioned ice screw sharpness... http://www.neice.com/Articles/IceScrewSh...files/frame.htm
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...we're talking about climbing, right?
No, I'm fixing a drink right now...
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I've read info indicating this ice tool or that ice tool is "sharp". How much sharpening are you guys doing to your tools before hitting the ice; what does "sharp" mean?
Ice axe, not-so-sharp?
Butter knife sharp?
Dull pocket knife, sorta-sharp?
Cut your finger sharp?
Sharp enough to split an atom?
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Yes, it is true that "a lady" (me) started an OR scrambles book nearly two years ago. I did the last scramble in August - so it's done!
The book is coming out in Spring 2005.
Includes stuff like Mount Thielsen, but mostly 3rd class.
Wallowas, Strawberries, Elkhorns, SE peaks, etc.
The Dodge book is still a good resource, I like his understated descriptions.
I can "QA" the material if you want to email me a copy!!!
Damn... hurry up and get that badboy printed; sounds cool.
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I'm still waiting to hear more details (*PROOF*!) of Dru's $800 score!!!
Did REI press charges when they finally caught your ass in the parking lot with the loaded pack?????
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How in the HELL do you climb that boulder pile on the last pitch of Thielsen in winter?????? Does it all fill in and you get a nice line of snow/ice? Seem like it would just be a bunch of icy boulders to slip and fall on. Almost seems like TFJ would be the warmup for Mt. T.!
But... I've only climbed them in the summer, so what the hell do I know.
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I swear this thread is a re-tread.
Sorry. Was just a random thought of mine. Besides, who doesn't like to brag about this sorta shit!
Mine is lame... a stupid-ass spectra runner just found on the ground.
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Just wondering... what was your best gear booty score?
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Fat, yes. Does it prevent me from pulling anything over 5.10? Nope.
It's my complete lack of climbing tallent that does that!
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I'm about 5'11" and weigh 205. Never had any real concerns about my gear taking my weight in a fall; if anything it was the placement.
There is a guy from England who climbed 5.14 and weighs 240 pounds. I'm sure he has fallen alot to get where he is.I climb at 5.wimpy so clearly I need to
and 
to improved my ability.I'd sure like to hear more about this English dude. Hard to imagine it. Anybody got a name on this guy?
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Incredibly dumb question time -
So AT shit is in fact rando? The term here seems to be used interchangably.... guess I didn't realize that this was the same gear.
This might explain why I couldn't find quite as much info on randonee as I could AT!
Didn't know it was the same.And... rando/AT have fixed heels? I thought I understood that they had the option of being either fixed or free ala tele.
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...they have such long schlongs that one is actually touching the water and the other is hitting bottom....
I've heard this one before, but heard it as "a couple of black guys..."
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...and THIS was made from a leaking hydration bladder on a very cold day.
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That's just something he made using a walk-in freezer and garden hose!
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Ice is more on the limitted side around here. After a prolonged cold spell the gorge has options. Several spots up on hood can also be made to work. But, based on shear numbers alone, ice climbing simply isn't as commonly done compared to long slogs up snow cover masses are. Don't get me wrong (before I piss off all the ice climbers) there IS some ice, but it's just not as accesible as cascade humps.... THAT'S what many climbers do around here in the winter.
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come on distel...
there are only two grades...
5.Isuck or 5.easy
EXACTLY!!!! Only, I'm still trying to find the 5.easy routes.
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Could be worse I guess... everything could taste like smoked feet.
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1:30-2 pm was 'bout the right time and that final pitch was being taken pretty slowly (for damn good reason), so yeah must have been you guys. Thought you guys sumitted and then was headed back down the same way, but I was so f'n cold I couldn't think straight so who the hell knows what I was seeing.
Awesome job!
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I just nuked an old bagel that I found in the fridge. Tastes like feet!
I'm hoping better for everyone else.....
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Hood North Face Epic!
Shred - was that you (looked like a team of 3) way up there on the right coliour (I was looking up from eliot)? If so, what happened on the decent? I saw what looked like the same 3 trying to come down that way, but then they went back up and it looked like a bail out onto sunshine... but I never saw anybody come around that way.
I was thinking it looked like a nailbiter going up, but coming down... fogetaboutit.
If it WAS you guys, good job on the accent!!!!!
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Fri - went out to dinner, then back at home got lucky
Sat - ice climbing and glacier stuff on hood
Sun - ran, cycled, then climbed at the gym followed by negating any health benefits by going to dinner and drinking entirely too much.
now - sorta hungover
Very productive weekend.
Randonnee binding for Mountaineering boots?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
Interesting. As luck would have it, tomorrow I'm going to try my Koflachs with rando skis for the very first time.
This will also be the first time back on skis in over 10 years.
Should I die, I'd like to will the following gear.......