gearho

Lots of groups use it. Mounties haven't been up there for 2 years now. Can't blame them for this either. It was a real suprise when they dropped the draft plan on all groups. Been trying to work with several groups who are limited by the restrictions that seem to be leading to an outright ban on climbing on Mt. Erie. Effectively it bans all groups at this point.

http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/GetYourBearings.pdf

Available at the Mountaineers bookstore.

Where is the BS route? I've heard a bunch about BS routes in the Casdcades. Just the other day I was talking about W. Ridge of Cutthroat and the person said, "What a BS route that is..."

Where is "Rap Wall"?

I have a pair. Very stiff, good for mixed climbing with the S1 sole. It has taken a while to find the right combination of inserts to keep it from eating my feet but last time out I managed to be almost blister free. Very warm, pretty comfortable, good on ice and sticks to rock. I've done 14 mile round trip and an ice climb in them. What size are yer feet? Maybe I just sell you mine...Or pry them off my dead frozen body at the bottom of a cravasse. -B

Rainier/Tully's building has a big sign for artists lofts. Still inconvenient location for anyone north of Downtown. Would thay keep both open?

Sunny is not a guy. She is a capable, active and smart woman. If you ever get to climb with her, you'll find that out. -B

If they wanted the picket they should have gotten it before the avy. Luckily there's no body (nobody) down there joining it...

got a message from someone with a snip of a tr. Said the slope avy'd saturday (9/18?) and took them for a ride. Any follow up? -B

If you're worried about Tibloc and their teeth, then you are worried about Petzl ascenders - and their teeth. If you look inside them they are the same teeth. Need to change brands to get rid of the teeth. They are pretty much the standard though. From Petzl: "Precautions The TIBLOC is an emergency rope clamp/grab for occasional use. Always check that the device jams immediately. The rope must always be under tension. This device is not designed to stop severe falls. Absorption: remember that the energy of a fall is absorbed by the rope." You could use a Gri-Gri, but you'll get your ass kicked on speed. If it is vertical they should be belaying you anyhoo. Not that you need it, liability would say to tie-in and climb as fast as you can - with a belay. Check that shiznit out... -B

Not to turn this into a TR, but, there was new snow but the wind take it off pretty quick. The mote at the summit area was filled in, or correctly, filled over with fresh powder. I was standing out of the wind and my partner came up and dropped in a few feet. He got pissed at the hole so he pissed in the hole. When re-organizing his stuff the wind blew his bag of dry stuff into the hole. He had to go face first into the piss hole! I looked over and saw his knees crampons sticking out as the bag went further into the hole. Another inch and it would have been retrieved next year. There will be a water bottle in the same area I understand. That belongs to Sunny. -B

Partner came up and I asked for the picket for the next belay (as there is only about 20 feet of ice at the top)and he told me it came off and slid down the face and stopped on the rocks. Marked "BH" and has a nice double mammut tape sling thing on it. Weather not cooperating for the time being to get it. -B

I droped a mammut teeny tiny thin tape single runner with a couple of Omega Pacific's (5.7 and a Doval) from the upper crack portion of R&D on Sunday 9/12. It slipped gently down the ledge and slid off the 11c area. It may be lying in the 5.6 cave area or not. I am lazy, therefore, finders keepers... -B

You know, it was pretty easy on the technical scale. On the remoteness scale it ranks pretty high. We only saw one tent on the way out. For the skiers, the gulley to the west of Disapointment looks like some scary MF ride from the summit and no glacier - thus no crevasses- all the way to the valley below. Light pack, right snow, mad hike in and summit, ski off. Crazy as you are...