gearho

Lots of groups use it. Mounties haven't been up there for 2 years now. Can't blame them for this either. It was a real suprise when they dropped the draft plan on all groups. Been trying to work with several groups who are limited by the restrictions that seem to be leading to an outright ban on climbing on Mt. Erie. Effectively it bans all groups at this point.

http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/GetYourBearings.pdf

Extra needs to go away. $20 and it's yours. I may have another if the other person bails as well. Brad

Available at the Mountaineers bookstore.

Where is the BS route? I've heard a bunch about BS routes in the Casdcades. Just the other day I was talking about W. Ridge of Cutthroat and the person said, "What a BS route that is..."

Where is "Rap Wall"?

I have a pair. Very stiff, good for mixed climbing with the S1 sole. It has taken a while to find the right combination of inserts to keep it from eating my feet but last time out I managed to be almost blister free. Very warm, pretty comfortable, good on ice and sticks to rock. I've done 14 mile round trip and an ice climb in them. What size are yer feet? Maybe I just sell you mine...Or pry them off my dead frozen body at the bottom of a cravasse. -B

Rainier/Tully's building has a big sign for artists lofts. Still inconvenient location for anyone north of Downtown. Would thay keep both open?

Sunny is not a guy. She is a capable, active and smart woman. If you ever get to climb with her, you'll find that out. -B

If they wanted the picket they should have gotten it before the avy. Luckily there's no body (nobody) down there joining it...

got a message from someone with a snip of a tr. Said the slope avy'd saturday (9/18?) and took them for a ride. Any follow up? -B

If you're worried about Tibloc and their teeth, then you are worried about Petzl ascenders - and their teeth. If you look inside them they are the same teeth. Need to change brands to get rid of the teeth. They are pretty much the standard though. From Petzl: "Precautions The TIBLOC is an emergency rope clamp/grab for occasional use. Always check that the device jams immediately. The rope must always be under tension. This device is not designed to stop severe falls. Absorption: remember that the energy of a fall is absorbed by the rope." You could use a Gri-Gri, but you'll get your ass kicked on speed. If it is vertical they should be belaying you anyhoo. Not that you need it, liability would say to tie-in and climb as fast as you can - with a belay. Check that shiznit out... -B

Not to turn this into a TR, but, there was new snow but the wind take it off pretty quick. The mote at the summit area was filled in, or correctly, filled over with fresh powder. I was standing out of the wind and my partner came up and dropped in a few feet. He got pissed at the hole so he pissed in the hole. When re-organizing his stuff the wind blew his bag of dry stuff into the hole. He had to go face first into the piss hole! I looked over and saw his knees crampons sticking out as the bag went further into the hole. Another inch and it would have been retrieved next year. There will be a water bottle in the same area I understand. That belongs to Sunny. -B

Partner came up and I asked for the picket for the next belay (as there is only about 20 feet of ice at the top)and he told me it came off and slid down the face and stopped on the rocks. Marked "BH" and has a nice double mammut tape sling thing on it. Weather not cooperating for the time being to get it. -B

I droped a mammut teeny tiny thin tape single runner with a couple of Omega Pacific's (5.7 and a Doval) from the upper crack portion of R&D on Sunday 9/12. It slipped gently down the ledge and slid off the 11c area. It may be lying in the 5.6 cave area or not. I am lazy, therefore, finders keepers... -B

You know, it was pretty easy on the technical scale. On the remoteness scale it ranks pretty high. We only saw one tent on the way out. For the skiers, the gulley to the west of Disapointment looks like some scary MF ride from the summit and no glacier - thus no crevasses- all the way to the valley below. Light pack, right snow, mad hike in and summit, ski off. Crazy as you are...

Climb: Glacier Peak-Diasapoinment Peak and several glaciers Date of Climb: 9/7/2004 Trip Report: It goes. Just got back, but it goes... Gear Notes: standard glacier gear, carried gear but never placed it. Approach Notes: When in a white out and trying to find a specific spot to avoid a cliffband, refrain from agreeing that a single strand rap to check it out is a good idea...Mo' later...

Verizon has the most towers in the outback (like Marblemount) and will share towers unlike T-Mobile. I just got their cheapest phone for $69 and it is a tri-band. It switches over to analog when it needs to and drains the battery really quick. Analog travels further so it's a good thing for the emergancy call. I don't call my Mom from the summit and say "guess where I am?".

Went shopping for a to replace the motorcycle that I put down on Thursday Some guy decided that I didn't need to be riding anymore and pulled across my path. Stuffed the bike under the back of his car, I ejected myself out behind the rear of his car. I was wearing full gear including gore-tex rain pants with cordura in strategic spots. Luckily it was in the right spots. Only blood was from a skinned knee. Feel thoroughly beat up now though.

Party of 4 started climb on Friday and started the rock of the North Ridge on Saturday. One party made it to the summit before the storm, one party was hammered on route. Some point hammered party got a rock to face (broken nose may be an exageration, we'll see in the morning) but the glasses were broken. With minimal gear and winter conditions now on the route it took a long time to make it from just below the Gendarme to the summit. Rescue called in, contact made, but weather prevented extraction and forced another cold night. Party was under their own power but assisted in descent off mountain and over Long's Pass. I am sure they were grateful for the "camp" at Long's Pass where they could rest and get some hot drinks. One of the climbers is now home while the other is getting a quick check up on the rock to noggin injury. I am sure they will fill more of the gaps later. How do I know all this? I was supposed to be on this climb! Epic-ho

You can lead the "bonus pitch" on Silent Running, 10b. I'm good up to there. I'll jug it if I have to. Others like Total Soul, Cornholecopia, Kone, Big Tree are all good. PM me and I'll drive from 65th Street P&R.

Bend is on Friday...Gorge is on Saturday...Bend is $5 cheaper...

Last report talked about "bridges that were about to go"...Wonder if anyone has done, will do, look down, has an opinion (check that, I am sure you have opinions) on the route. Thinking of next weekend for a go. Might make for some very entertaining climbing or a really suck ass WTF weekend. -B

Doing the North Ridge next Friday and wonder if there are still snow patches that can be reliably counted on for melting drinking water on route. -B

I have gym shoes that cram the feet but offer great control. Same brand alpine shoes that fit a pair of thin socks for outside. I bring the gym shoes for crags but wouldn't do the walk-off in them. In the book "How to Climb 5.12" I believe they recommend having your toenails removed... -b