fas

Sounds and looks like a lot has changed since I did this 20 years ago. We exited the tunnel onto ice. I don't remember anything approaching 5.7 on the climb to the hut - I wonder if this is low down and newly exposed rock because of glacial retreat. Sounds like more fixed rope on the ridge. Also way more people - there were only 3 parties on the route that day.

plan changed to a solo trip

I have a selection of stuff from the 70's and early 80's to sell- Chouinard Feather Weight biners, some other misc. biners, a pair of Super Gaiters, a CMI piton hammer, Chouinard crampons, early design Friends, an ice screw wrench, and a Chouinard Alpine Hammer. From earlier - a pair of nailed boots and some misc. Tricouni nails. If interested in any of this, contact me at fspicker at comcast dot net for photos and to discuss prices.

It depends on which way you are approaching the pass - you may not be able to get there from the east.

A 30m rope is sufficient for the rap off The Castle.

More on the area and approaches: http://www.summitpost.org/the-lions-head/153052

What are the snow conditions over Longs Pass?

The hardness scale does not apply to rocks - just minerals. Also - it is a measure of resistance to being scratched and has nothing to do with how brittle or dense the mineral might be. (Since you seem to want to apply it to how breakable the rock is.)

See the "Getting There" section on this page. There are several approaches. http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/151709/chimney-rock.html

I think that one needs to define what they mean by "simul-climbing". I have never considered traveling together with coils or on a shortened rope over Class 3 or 4 terrain as simul-climbing. Rather just as an expedient way to avoid taking the rope off and having to tie in again when further difficulties are encountered. Seems to me that the current meaning of simul-climbing is moving together over Class 5 terrain and placing intermediate protection, but not belaying. Am I correct? In either case, I have always believed that if I feel the need to place protection, I am admitting to myself that there is a chance that I could fall. If there is a chance that I could fall, I want a belay. My policy has always been and will remain that if the leader is placing protection, there is an old fashioned, stationary, protected belay.

Instead of just taking a photo from elsewhere and then depositing it into your "own" album for linking, how about linking to the original or at the very least giving the person who took the photo and created the graphics credit when and where you post it? Photo and graphics by ............ In this case Fred Spicker - photo taken from SummitPost.org http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=30634

Anybody done this? I am looking for beta on locating the start.

http://www.summitpost.org/image/493038//ice-axe-attack.html

Oberlin climbing information

Hmm, the policeman is correct on GRAMMAR, but needs to work on spelling.