Ireneo_Funes
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Posts posted by Ireneo_Funes
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Clever?
I guess cleverness is subjective. Chuck was alluding to the famous speech in Hamlet where the sullen prince says something like:
"To link, or not to link: that is the question:
Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer
The slings and arrows of outrageous belays
Or to make an anchor against a sea of troubles,
And by rappelling end them?"
...at least that's how I remember it.
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I think bomber natural pro is a good reason to stop and set up a belay station, especially if you don't know what's ahead. A couple of weeks ago, we did the Open Book route on the Finger of Fate in ID. After the second belay station, you can either go about 25 feet and set up the third belay on a great ledge with good pro, or you can keep going and hope your rope'll reach to the next decent spot. Deciding to make the 3rd pitch ridiculously short was the right call. I'd rather break it up and keep it fun, rather than try to link and make it terrifying.
But if I was comfortable simul-climbing I'd probably answer differently. I'm not going for any speed records a la the Huber boys.
why not just climb to the 3rd belay instead of using your second belay if the 3rd is only 25 feet higher?
Next time I might do that. It was our first time on the route and the 2nd belay station seemed like a pretty obvious spot (complete w/ ancient piton). There'd be a little rope drag if you skipped our 2nd belay station.
With the benefit of hindsight, I'd probably try to go for the nice ledge that we made our 3rd station. I was giving this as an example of how we decided to set up our stations on a route that we'd never done before, though.
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BTW wtf does noble have to do with it? What does that mean ? Cooler? Most of the time I see a noble retard when there is a good ledge nearby they passed up.
Chuck is making a clever literary allusion, Caveman!
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I think bomber natural pro is a good reason to stop and set up a belay station, especially if you don't know what's ahead. A couple of weeks ago, we did the Open Book route on the Finger of Fate in ID. After the second belay station, you can either go about 25 feet and set up the third belay on a great ledge with good pro, or you can keep going and hope your rope'll reach to the next decent spot. Deciding to make the 3rd pitch ridiculously short was the right call. I'd rather break it up and keep it fun, rather than try to link and make it terrifying.
But if I was comfortable simul-climbing I'd probably answer differently. I'm not going for any speed records a la the Huber boys.
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Chevy Avalanche.
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What if I just think about sending it...with a hemp rope and wooden wedges?
We're talking devolution... the end of jocko homo!
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If I french free a 5.6 move am I deconstructing it to A0?
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no, it's more like a stream-of-consciousness deal. Like a postmodern Finnegan's Wake... I mean a modern...no, postmodern... which is it, NOLSe?
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Second the vote for a pub club. But we have to call it the OR Hardman club.
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Don't let the beat drop, guys. Take it to a new level.
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So post modern A3 with modern tools is like A1+. Like thin red line for example.
According to speedclimbing.org, Jacques Derrida soloed slipstream in 45 minutes with his golden retriever. He rated it A1/x, in which x is...la differance. He also mentioned that all these signifiers are bullshit anyway.
This is expressed by the following equation: y'alls fucktardedness/colin's radness = 0
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I'm sure I speak for everyone that we all feel bad about all this and wish none of it had happened.
I personally feel terrible...
Shapp, check your email for my TR on my free solo of the Turkey Monster. If you like it I'll post it in the new Oregon Hardman forum.
But only if you like it!
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I asked for advice, received it, and maade my own judgement.
Good for you. And you also exhibited good judgement by heading down in shitty conditions even when a partner wanted to press on. ...And that's what this climbing thing is all about, right? Making our own judgements, being responsible for ourselves and looking out for our partners. We can make the judgement whether or not we're going to take advice from strangers on cc.com, and we don't need a disclaimer on a TR to know that maybe wearing sandals on Dragontail isn't a good idea for everyone.
We should also be able to take a little well-intentioned criticism too.
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Great shot of the rocks w/ the moon above.
What's the ruined building - a monastery?
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Free Advice
in Spray
Can a hairless rat get in on that interspecies cuddle action?
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Free Advice
in Spray
The kitten and the pig think that we should all just try a little harder to get along....
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Crichton makes some good points about the naivete of city-dwellers vis-a-vis the practicality of country folk, but I don't buy his thesis. First of all, "environmentalism" may encompass belief systems ("religion," if you like), but it's broader than that. It means different things to different people. It's disingenuous for him to try to pretend that environmentalism is some kind of formal institution, rather than a vague collection of sometimes contradictory ideas and impulses.
And sure, lots of so-called environmentalists are starry-eyed Romantics who like the idea of the woods better than they like the woods themselves...but really, I'd probably prefer their company over the "practical" yahoos going mud-bogging in their ATVs.
It sounds like he's got some real minority-report information about DDT, the icecaps, second-hand smoke, etc. I sure would like to see that stuff footnoted.
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My Deal...
in Spray
Fuck you, you funny-talking, sheep fucking, skirt wearing, Mick bastard.C'mon, Greg - get your ethnic epithets right, OK?
A Mick hails from the emerald isle. I think Gowans is a Jock.
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My Deal...
in Spray
Is this some kind of fuckin' therapy thread? Your shrink told you to atone for your errant ways by 'fessing up and reaping the near certain affirming thumbs up stories that validate your being?Clearly Mike's working through the 12 steps of Climbers Anonymous... he's making amends to those who've been hurt by his climbing.
Seriously, though -- keep the aggro TR's coming, and keep pulling on gear whenever you can.
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This is unreal. Hope the tribe continues to take their stewardship seriously instead of going for the buck.
I'm not a skier, but if I was... there's no way in hell I'd patronize Meadows.
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Westfalia pad brahs
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hooking
in Newbies
Posted
The funny thing is, when I was a kid I thought that's how people climbed stuff...by tossing up a grappling hook and climbing the rope hand over hand.