TrailPair

Has anyone been up the Sulfide Glacier on Shucksan lately. What are the conditions? Does the rad access go all the way to the trail head?

My wife and I used a 60m 8.8mm rope on Baker and on Rainier. To handle the extra length, we use a few loops at the ends and carry the kiwi coils. We like the lighter weight. To compensate for the "grab" of the slings we use 4 wraps instead of the usual 3. It seems to hold well.

Hey, Semore....I agree with you. We were coming down the mountain after a successful climb on Sunday. When we reached the "rok wall of doom" a group of climbers were stalled on that nasty rock. It took them a good deal of time to get off the rock. In the meantime other groups of climbers arrived. The only thing we could do was wait until those ahead cleared before we could go.

My wife and I summited Kili December 25, 2004 (Christmas morning). It was an awesome experience. We went up the Umbwe Route camping at Umbwe Cave, Baranco Hut, Karanga Valley and Barafu. There was nohing technical about the climb. But the summit is at 19,341 ft. It was an exhilarating experience. We felt lucky to not have any altitude problems. Your photos show how rapidly the glaciers are receding. If anyone is interested in climbing Kili. They should go soon while there is still some snow on top of the great mountain. I can provide an excellent recommendation for an outfitter.....contact Zanaib at www.zaratravels.com

Nice report. It was an awesome weekend on the mountain. My wife and I were there at the same time. The weather was perfect. The conditions were perfect. You must have taken the left fork at the "Y" at about 13,000 ft. and gone up the shorter steeper route past the bergschrund. We took the right fork and traversed up to the saddle between Liberty Cap and the summit. Then on up to the top. I'm going to take this opportunity to mention the nasty chossy conditons at the "rock wall of doom" where the route descends from Camp Curtis to the glacier. The route has loose rotten rock and gravel wih poor footing and little to use for hand holds. This is undoubtedly the most dangerous part of the climb. That descent is a hazard to life and limb. I wonder if there is anything the park service can do to make it safer....maybe install a cable or something. One more thing....with the warm weather, the crevasses are opening rapidly. The snow bridges will be disappearing soon.

Climb: Mount Baker-Coleman - Deming Date of Climb: 5/29/2005 Trip Report: What a weekend for an alpine adventure! The trail up Heliotrope Ridge is a quick approach to the Glacier. Although, due to the warm weather, the first major stream crossing has a rush of high water. But with the use of poles we managed to get across with mostly dry boots. The second stream crossing where the stream is braided is easiest crossed at the main trail. the water is shallow with a grvel bottom and a few strategically placed rocks to hop across. During the course of the weekend, a regular tent city developed at the Hogs Back. But, those are nice camp sites with running water and toilets nearby. Super K and I trudged up the Glacier near the Black Buttes on soft mashed potato snow. There is an area to the right of the beaten boot track with some nice rocks to sit on and running water nearby (at eleve 6824 ft). This is where we dug out our tent platform and waited for Robert and his intrepid crew of 3 teenage girl mountaineers. We had finished our z-pulley/snow anchor practice session when Robert and the girls showed up (about 4:00pm). After an early dinner we were in the tent to try and get some rest for the 1:00 wake up call. When we got up, the sky ws filled with brilliant stars. There was a soft warm breeze.....making the snow soft and wet. After a quick breakfast we put on the gear and walked over to see how Robert and his crew were doing. They were running a few minutes behind so, K and I headed out. The route was easy to follow. There was a well beaten boot track leading upslope. A group of 14 mountaineers had set up their camp in a level basin at about 7,000 feet. We encountered the entire group of Mountaineers when we reached the saddle between Mount Baker and Sherman Peak. They were moving so slowly we had a peanut butter sandwich while we waited for them to move on up the ridge toward the Roman Wall. But at their slow pace we did take time to install our 'pons on our boots while we were on the ridge. The snow from the saddle on up to the was firm and the steps being provided by the mountaineers could have made the ascent of the Roman wall easy. But K got frustrated by the slow pace so we left the boot track and made our own way to get around some of the slower climbers. The sun was already up when we got onto the summit plateau. A glorious day! 5 hours from camp to the summit. We made the stroll to the summit block for the summit photos, then came down for a snack and short rest break before we started our descent. Robert and the girls showed up while we were resting. The girls looked as if they were enjoying their experience. Taking due caution down the Roman wall, we made sure to set good self belays and used the boot tracks to sep down the slope. From the saddle back to camp it was wading through the soft snow. Very tiring on the quads. We were back at the camp at 10:00 took off the gear and dove into the tent for a nap. A very successful and very fun climb.....including the nasty sunburn we got. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons. Shoulda had a wide brimmed hat for sun portection.

According to the news, one of the h ikers was found wearing shorts and cotton t shirt. The other wearing cotton hiking pants. They had gear for an over night at Camp Muir, including wind/rain gear. But for some unknown reason, they didn't use it. Could it be that they died of stupidity?

We would be interested in doing Disappointment Cleaver/Ingram Direct in July. Maybe over 4th of July holiday? The work stuff gets in the way of our fun. So, we are limited to climbing on weekends....but the weekend can be extended by me taking a Friday off as vacation if I know a few days in advance that it will be a go. Of course a climb would be determined by the weather. We had a bad experience with nasty weather on Hood last year. We are planning a climb with friends on Baker over Memorial Day...weather permitting. Message me and we can continue the dialogue.

I like my Sportiva Glaciers. They are a great all-round boot for back pakcing and genral mountaineering. The crampons I use with them are the Stubai ultra lights.

You mentioned that you were planning a climb on Baker this month. Do you have a date set? My wife and I are hoping to get a climb in soon and Baker is one of our targets (weather permiting). Perhaps we could make it a joint effort.

What time did you start you climb from Timberline Lodge?

Interested in checking out Kilimanjaro, or a trek through the andes to Machu Picchu? See our web page at trailpair.com/africa

They range in size....but may be about 80 ft. They are an amazing sight. If you are considering climbing them, be careful. Due to climate change, they are calving off in places.

a few photos have been posted in the gallery....enjoy!

Does anyone know how to post photos to this site?

Climb: Kilimanjaro, Tanzania-Umbwe Trail Date of Climb: 12/20/2004 Trip Report: OK, this trip was definitley not in the usual areas.....and it is a bit late....but better late than never...especially since it was such an awesome experience. This was a tip that Super K and I ahd been thinking about and planning for nearly 18 months before it really happened. Initially we had researched several giude services on-line and purchased a guide book that also had guide service recommendations. We finally settled on Zara....and it was a very good decision. Leaving Sea-Tac December 18th....to Chicago....to Amsterdam.....to Kilimajaro Airport. A sacrifice of 25 hours getting to East Africa. When we finnaly arrived at the Springlands Hotel in Moshi, we were ready for sleep.....then the adventure. We had one day to work out the kinks from the loooong flight. So, we decided to visit the local market in Moshi. Where else could a white couple from the good ol' USA experience the local African culture? A visit to the was indeed a learning experience. Our walk to the market is a story I won't get into right now......to much to write about when I really want to expound about our mountain experience. The afternoon of December 19th, we met our guide, Prosper at the Sprinbglands Hotel (our base while we were in Moshi). We discussed our planned route up the grand mountain as well as his recommendations for gear. After our time with Prosper, we went to our room and got ourselves organized for the hike up Kilimanjaro. Day 1: Prosper and the rest of the crew including the assistant guide, Arsen and 5 porters were at the Springlands at 9:00. We had been up for a couple of hours ready and excited to get started. We loaded gear into the rugged Land Cruiser truck and were on our way to the Umbwe Gate. The route goes through several small villages. We stopped a few times as Arsen was searching for fresh eggs to take up the mountain for our breakfasts. Evgerytime we stopped the village children would pear out from behind their mothers and look at the strange mjungas(white people). But the people were always friendly and waved at us. We arrived at Umbwe Gate before noon. While Prosper did the paper work in the ranger station, the porters were preparing the food that was gopinng up the mountain with us....water mellon, pineapple, papaya, mangoes, potatoes, etc. At this point my respect for the porters grew enormously. These men loaded the fresh fruits and vegetable into baskets. I watched as the porters started up the trail with a pack on their backs, soomthing in one hand and a basket of fruit and vbegetable on their head. By the time Prosper had checked us in with the park service the porters were already on their way. Prosper, Arse, Super K and I followed.....at a deliberatly slow pace..pole, pole (slowly, slowly). Starting at about 6,000 ft at Umbwe Gate, the trail starts on a road bed...but soon becomes steep, sometimes muddy, sometimes rocky (kinda like Mailbox Peak....except in the rainforest). Wwe continue ascending for about 5 hours climbing to Umbwe Cave (elev. 9,300 ft)....our first camp site on the mountain. As we arrive at the camp site, the tents are already set up....dinner is already cooking. We get our first look at our facilities. The tent wwe use I call the "palace". It is a two room, 7 person family tent. One room is our dining facility, the other room is our bedroom. We get warm water to wash up with...and dinner is served. Can you believe fried chicken on the mountain! The next morning we get started at 7:00 with a breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausage and toast. This is more like hotel service that a mountain climb! Again going slowly, we start day two. After a couple of hours we encounter a nice rock wall to scramble up ( the porters have to climb this stuff with all the gear!), As we gain elevation the jungle canopy gives way to a tall heather....then we get our first glimpses of the glaciers hanging on the mountain....very cool! After lunch, that included hot tea, a couple more hours and we arrive at our second camp site, Barranco Hut. Nestled next to Kili at 12,800 feet, we have some spectacular scenery. The clouds swirl in and out. A short rain, sleet, hailstorm adds some more white to the mountain. Then the weather clears in the early evening. We find this is pretty typical weather pattern. Clear in the mornings.....the clouds build during the day.....then clear in the afternoon. Anyway, due to thevolatile weather conditions and the distinct possiblity of dangerous ice conditions on the rocks going up the Western Breach Route (our original intended route) we made a change of plans....instead of attempting the summit via the Western Breach, we would travers to Barafu and attempt the summit from the east side. Day 3: After another hearty breakfast, we load up our day packs for the day.....the porters carry everything else. Our first challenge is a scramble up the Barranco wall. With our trekking poles stashed in our packs, it takes all fours to climb up the rock face.....but no problem for the porters with all the gear! From the top of Barranco ridge to our next camp at Karanga, wwe enjoy the changeing scenery. Some areas have low shrubs and grasses...other areas resemble a moonscape. As we approached Karanga Valley, we could see the water source in the deep valley below. the trail swithcbacks down to the stream...then up the other side. Camp is on Karanga Ridge (elev. 13,100 feet). The porters go down to the valley bottom to the water source and carry 5 gallon jugs back up the steep rocky trail on their heads. There are several other groups camped at Karanga. We had opportunity to chat with a couple from the U.K. and a solo woman hiker from Australia (she did have her own guide and porters). As usual, the afternoon weather pattern brought a short snow storm. It dropped a dusting of snow on the mountain, increasing it's majestic appearance. With evening coming on, dinner was served...always very tastey..then settle in for a good nights sleep. Day 4: The trail today is short. The terrain reminds me of photos that were published of the rocky surface of Mars. Just a 3 hour hike to high camp at Barafu. (elev. 15,100 ft). Super K and I have both been pleasantly surprised that we have had no problems with the altitude....not even a headache. We enjoy a relaxing afternoon. When the sun is shining we soak up it's warmth....when the clouds swirl...we put on some fleece and duck into the tent. Dinner is served early. It's going to be a short night. Our wake up call will be at 11:30.....climb is to begin at midnight. We are in our tent at 6:30. The camp is busy. The porters are being chatty....after all, they get to sleep in tomorrow. But we manage to get few hours sleep. Day 5: Summit day...Christmas Mornings! Arsen wakes us at 11:00. Gear is laid out or already packed for the day. WE have a short breakfast of ta nad buscuits. I am already out of the tent at 11:30. I see a solo woman hiker and her guide getting a very early start. The pace they are going rersembles a funeral march. but at this altitude, there are only two paces...slow and slower. Super K and I are eager and ready. With Prosper and Arsen we start for the summit. The moon is nearly full. So, we don't ned the headlamps to being with. In the darkness we don't really see how steep the trail is. The trail has been nicely frozen. So we can hear the cruch of gravel under our boots. As we approached 16,500 feet we passed the woman and her guide who had started earlier. As we passed about 17,300 feet we encoutered a couple who couldn't handle the altitude and ahd to descend. Even in the dark I could see the disappointm,ent etched on ther faces. At about 18,000 ft I cold make out the rim of the crater...with the ghostly appearnce of glaciers on our left. As we crested the rim, the moon was haning like a spot light in front of us....lighitng up the crater and the glaciers. Bright enough to leave a lasting impression in my memory.....but not bright enough to take photos. We crested the rim at Stella Point at 4:45. we were too fast. It's too dark for the photos. We will have to hang out until the sun beings to rise....but it is also cold, with a light wind....makeing it feel even colder....at least while we were sitting in the rocks waiting for the sun to rise. When we finally saw the crease of orange to the east we continued toward the summit....Uhuru Peak elevation 19,340 feet. Hugs all around. The sun is begining to rise....it's Christmas Morning. The photo opportunities are all around us. From Stella Point to the summit was about 1 hour and 15 minutes....including timw waiting for the sun to rise. Going back to Stella Point toook a little longer becasue of the photos. From Stella Point descending to Barafu was only 2 1/2 hours. Our guides encouraged us to come down the mountain quickly to avoid possible altitude problems. At Barafu we took about an hour to rest, have a snack, repack gear and then start the hike down to camp at Mweka, elevation 9,300 ft. It's been one long exhausting day. But a day of accomplishment. Day 6: Breakfast at 6:30. the crew wants to get home to be with their families for the holiday. (Yes, the Tanzanians celebrate Christmas too). So, we are glad to oblige and we are ready to complete the last leg of the adventure. Just 2 1/2 hours and we are at Mweka Gate. The rangers issue certificates for climbers. We got our gold certificates because we made it to the summit. Those that stop at the rim (Stella Point, or Gillman Point) get silver certificates, Those that don't make it that far get green certificates. Our certificates are framed in our study at home. This is a trip I would do again someday. Although I would still like to attempt the Western Breach. I highly recommend Zara and their superb staff. Oh yea, the 4 days of safari through Lake Manyara, the Serengetti and Ngorongor Crater were awesome too. PS: I'll post a few photos when I figure out how it's done. Gear Notes: No technical gear was needed. The route began with shorts and sleevelss shirts, graduated day by day to down jackets over fleece layers on summit day. fleece liner gloves inside OR mits were comfy.

As I recently learned from my swahili speaking friends in Tanzania....hakuna matata (no worries). Everything works out.

You have a knack for the black & white photos....do more of them.

Many of you may have heard of the hiker that went missing somewhere around Colchuck Lake 3 weeks ago. He is the brother-in-law of a co-worker. His camp site was found last week, but so far, there has been no sign of him. So, for anyone that is in the area of Aasgard Pass, Dragon Tail, Upper Enchantment Lakes, etc. Please keep an eye out...and report anything you may encounter. Thanx

Aconcagua in December will be an awesome adventure! Be sure to post a report when you return. My wife and I are going to be climbing Kilimanjaro in December....summiting on Christmas day! I would like to hear about your experience on Kili. Bob n Kolleen (Trail Pair)

On the east side of the mountains there is a hike in an area called "Whiskey Dick"

Glad you are safe and sound....You otta consider pitching this story as a made for TV movie. It is exciting...with a happy ending!

Have you made your reservations with the rangers yet? I just checked and found that Camp Schurman is full with a possible opening at Camp Curtis and a possible space at Eamons Flats. I don't know....but suspect that Camp Muir is full too for the busy holiday weekend. But yes, if the weather looks good we would be intersted in going. What is your experience level? We are newbie climbers. We have used our ice axes and crampons on several occasions....Mt Adams, Mt St Helens, Three fingers, Mt Daniel, etc. We have not yet been in condittions that would require roping up...although we have had some "dry land" practice in setting up Z pulley and C pulley, etc. We had been examining the possibility of climbing Baker this weekend....but as of this morning, the weasther at Rainier is looking better.

Hola Fabricio, My wife and I would be interested in climbing Rainier with you over the July 4 weekend. We are novices at climbing in conditions that require roping up...but we have had several opportunities to use our crampons and ice axes.....Mount Adams, Mount St Helens, Mount Daniel, Three fingers,etc. We are planning our first outing with an experienced climber on Mt Hood this weekend to learn more mountaineering skills and increase our confidence in more extreme conditions. Me, 52 years old and in great shape. My wife (who I refer to as Super K) is 48 and a goddess of the mountains. We hope to hear from you. My email is rcole@zgf.com Tenga un grande dia

We are interested. My wife and I are novice at climbs that involve roping up.....but we have had fun with our crampons and ice axes on a number of occasions Mt Adams, Mt St Helens, Mt Daniel, 3 fingers, Colchuck Peak, etc. We have done a "dry land" practice for Z-pulley and prusiking. We had plans to summit Rainier over Memorial day weekend with an experienced mountaineer, but it was postponed due to the nasty weather. We are also avid back packers and scramblers. My wife (whom I refer to as Super K) is 48....and a goddess. I am 52 and in great shape. We have the gear and we would enjoy the adventure. Contact us at knb_cole@webtv.net....or email me at rcole@zgf.com Hope to hear from you soon. ps: unfortunately we are still a working couple so we would have to plan climbs for weekends. But Super K doens't work on Fridays....and with a little lead time, I can arrange to take a Friday off too.