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Everything posted by KaskadskyjKozak
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30m is fine for that route, IMO. Try out your prusiks first on it, if they slip, wrap an extra time.
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Looking for Good, Safe, Steep Snow Spots
KaskadskyjKozak replied to RyanStewart's topic in Climber's Board
North Twin Sister (N face I think). It is about 50 degrees at the top and eases going down. It may be melted back by now, but you may be in luck if you hit it soon. -
And post after post of this, is OK? "douchey, can you create your own insults or are you a total total dumb fucking clowpunch incapable of any creative process? so far: reposts: 2, creativity:0. looks like one sided game. I was going to post pic of your mom, but you beat me to it. good job salty breath."
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Trip: Kangaroo Temple - North Face Date: 7/8/2012 Trip Report: SG and I led a couple of beginners up the N face of Kangaroo Temple on Sunday, the day after we climbed SEWS. We were pretty beat from the previous day's work so this trip was a welcome notch lower - at least on the technical part. Unfortunately, I lost my camera battery on the summit of SEWS, so I only have a few photos taken by another party on the route that day. See approach notes for a conditions report. This is a fun, easy route with great exposure and views. There is also a cool 5.7 route nearby (NW face) which I have been meaning to try. KK leading around the exposed corner on the third pitch: KK topping out on the third pitch: Gear Notes: Small alpine rack up to 2". You could use a C4 #3 if you have one with you. Approach Notes: Patchy snow from the parking lot until where the valley steepens. Much of the climber's trail through the bush is either flooded or under snow, and tricky to follow. The snow is melting fast, however. There is still a ton of snow up to the pass, and the climbers trail from there to Kangaroo Temple still has a lot of steep snow to maneuver around. Just below the notch on KT you can either ascend steep snow or stay climber's left on the loose rocky trail.
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Go Ron Paul!!
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H2S
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[TR] Mt Rainier - Liberty Ridge 7/4/2012
KaskadskyjKozak replied to mattschweiker's topic in Mount Rainier NP
You are tearing it up this year Matt! Good one! -
All this talk about Boston makes me want to go back and tag it. :-)
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[TR] SEWS - W Face/SW Rib 7/7/2012
KaskadskyjKozak replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in North Cascades
Just got this from a friend who was hiking and at a different vantage point. I am following here on the friction pitch below the Bear Hug cracks: -
[TR] SEWS - W Face/SW Rib 7/7/2012
KaskadskyjKozak replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in North Cascades
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Trip: South Early Winters Spire - W Face/SW Rib Date: 7/7/2012 Trip Report: I climbed SEWS on Sat with my friends DC, DB, and SG. We followed the fine route topo given in "Weekend Rock". The route was a bit crowded, with us waiting a bit for a party of 2 to start, and another party of 4 coming up as we started. We ended up mixing/merging and chatting with the latter folks, and let them pass us 2 at a time during the course of the day. I got the honors of leading the Bear Hug cracks which was very cool and the highlight of my day. Some pics... In the cool of the morning: SG leads up pitch 1: SG is smiling now... before he heads up the runout friction pitch: View up above the Bear Hug pitch: Not a bad belay spot here for sure: SG seemed to like leading slabs and tried to link pitches until he ran out of rope: Views down from the Rabbit Ears: KK summit stoke: Gear Notes: C4 #5 for the Bear Hug pitch. Walked it once in the right-hand crack. Otherwise, standard alpine rack. Approach Notes: Patchy snow from trailhead and continuous on the open slopes.
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More so with some than others.
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He raised taxes and added brackets, no?
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They did in the past. "Read my lips...". In fact if that's what you want, I bet you'd have more chance getting it under the Mitt-ster (and he'd probably cave in that way when push comes to shove)
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BS and you know it. I'd be much more in favor of adding more brackets for higher income folks with higher rates than raising the current highest rate to match "historic [sic] levels". But, hey, let's just avoid any common ground!
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I went quite far up it looking for the ramp to the Boston Glacier last year (for Buckner). It's pretty nasty below the false summit.
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guys... the weather is good now. Who gives a flying fuck about SCROTUS? Climb bisches!
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there used to be more brackets, so the cartoon is (undoubtedly purposely) misleading How is it misleading? Its not about how many brackets there used to be, its about what the top bracket used to be -- which is accurate. In 1936 the top bracket of 79% applied to a gross income of 80.7 million (2011) dollars. There were 31 brackets. In 2011 the top bracket of 35% applied to a gross income of 379 thousand dollars. There are 6 brackets. The simple-minded little cartoon omits this huge amount of detail and its "point" is rendered null and void.
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there used to be more brackets, so the cartoon is (undoubtedly purposely) misleading
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[TR] Eldorado - East Ridge 7/2/2012
KaskadskyjKozak replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in North Cascades
Snow coverage is pretty solid until about 5000 feet, so you'd have to carry the skies almost 3K vertical, Gaucho. -
[TR] Eldorado - East Ridge 7/2/2012
KaskadskyjKozak replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in North Cascades
It was clear below about 7200 feet or so. Rain came in at dusk and later for the drive home. -
[TR] Eldorado - East Ridge 7/2/2012
KaskadskyjKozak replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in North Cascades
Yes, very reasonable. -
Trip: Eldorado - East Ridge Date: 7/2/2012 Trip Report: The weekend weather has not be cooperating, so I rounded up some beginners for a run up Eldorado C2C with a narrow weather window on Monday. Morning mists soon yielded blue skies and great slogging up the upper basin slopes and the Eldorado glacier. Judas Priest and Hendrix made the going much more enjoyable. At the rock island at the nose of the ridge, however, we noticed clouds and weather coming in. We tried to beat them to the top in time for summit views, but one party member got bad leg cramps. He had to sit out the final 700 feet while the rest of us postholed up soft snow with a breakable crust 8 inches down. We then enjoyed the current spicy conditions on the arĂȘte finish: just below the top, there is a half broken cornice that you must climb below and around to finish. With the soft snow it was a bit tricky to avoid blowing out sideways. Cascade Pass in the morning: J-berg looms above the mists: Eldo: Torment, Boston, Sahale: Our views before the weather closed them: Summit views!!!
