KaskadskyjKozak

Yes, Tieton is vertical. Some of the easiest routes there seem harder because of that (or because they really are sandbagged, but I'm not going to get into that argument). And yes, crack climbing is fun.

The recurring cluckers thread is more annoying than Kevboner.

All I was hoping to accomplish with my post was to help Stewster avoid just this. ^^ Well, my friend - also a newb at the time - led one of the routes on the left of Western Front with a smaller crack and almost took a leader fall. The slightly harder grade was a little too much. That put me off from trying the harder lead. My advice for any new leader in a new place is to go with someone who's been there before (or get their advice) and make sure you have enough pro of the right sizes to do the wider cracks (easier routes). If you have a mentor (or a rich friend who's starting out) you can borrow the pieces you don't have. :-) Personally, I found Tieton scary as a new leader a couple of years ago. I'd recommend other places first, but that's me.

Precisely, which is why I said this: ??? But I know what you are saying - there are some places on those routes where the crack is wide, and if you don't have a big piece at a key spot, you may be SOL. But, there's only a couple of spots like that. It's not like you have to have a rack with a buttload of large cams, hexes, and big bros. The first time I led Western Front I didn't have any big pieces and nobody warned me. About 20 feet up I placed a hex as psych-pro and moved up, only to hear it rattle down as I passed it. At that point I would probably have hit the deck if I fell. I moved up a couple of moves to where the crack was smaller and placed a piece.

Be aware that the lower grades at Royal Columns will lend themselves to less protection opportunities. This is because the cracks are rather wide in the 5.3/5.4 range, although the climbing is super easy and straightforward. Pay attention that the injury potential on these lesser-graded climbs is generally greater than the harder routes. Take Apprentice (5.3), for example, as someone mentioned. More that a few budding trad leaders have had their ankles/knees/elbows/legs/arms meet an untimely end on that climb. Most climbs in this range are off-widths at RC. You'll have to reach in deep to get pro, holds, etc. Moving into the 5.5/5.6 range offers better protection scenarios, as the cracks are narrowing up a bit more (hand and fist jams, foot jams). By the time you're in the 5.7 to 5.8 climbs, you're doing finger and toe jams. Although we're talking about RC right now, do not miss the opportunity to get on Ed's Jam at The Bend, just upriver. There is no finer a 5.8 crack in the entire state as easily protectable as EJ, IMHO. By 5.9/5.10, finger locks and smears and edging become de rigeur. By 5.11, it's tough crimping and deft edging almost exclusively. But then, I've only done a couple of 11's at RC, and that was a hella while back. Regarding the notion that RC is a sandbag haven, I say Pfffft! It's as fairly graded as any classic destination climbing area. Everything I've climbed there over the past 20-odd years is spot-on for the grade. Ya, I know, this argument has been had on this board a bazillion times before, and I'm not gonna engage anyone in it again. However, I strongly feel that the route pioneers at RC did an excellent job of selecting the ratings. They fit nicely with what I grew up climbing. Now if they could just get rid of the rattlers... it's been a awhile since I was there, but I believe Western Front (5.3) has mostly good protection with pro in the normal size range - you just need a couple bigger pieces to cover those spots where you need it (say #10-11 hexes and maybe a #3 and #4 C4)

Kevboner has that effect on people

sweet. stay away? if the weather is good, I'm going

just as long as it isn't "organized" climbing

I was up at Muir 3 weeks or so ago and they were still locking the gate. Has anyone been up there in the last week or so? I'm hoping it stays unlocked soon?

We had a 60 m rope. It is about 2-3 feet shy of the chains for the first rap. It's fine for the other two (but not a lot of room to spare, so it's good to orient the middle of the rope in the chains).

Reading these stories makes we realize I don't suck so bad after all.

One other thing... it was awesome to watch the Wenatchee today. Holy shit the snow was melting. Nobody was kayaking today that I saw. As for evidence of huge slides... I didn't see any on the mountains on the drive in (highway 2).

And you all thought I was joking. Went up this moring. Down by 11:30am. Conditions were great. Everything was consolidated. Solid steps all the way up. The glissade down was better then ever.

Trip: February Buttress - Ground Hog Day Date: 5/18/2008 Trip Report: Due to the ridiculous temperatures and extreme avy forecast my friend Cary and I canceled a planned trip up the Fuhrer Finger and opted for some Leavenworth cragging on Sunday instead. We met at 7 am at a P&R in north Seattle and due to the hellish heat from the day before expressed some concern that the day would be miserable on hand-frying rock, but hell we got up early already as it was, so might as well go for it. Temps were already closing in on 70 when we got to 11worth, we stopped at the gas station at the Icicle Creek turn and oriented ourselves, with our "Leavenworth Rock" book in hand. We couldn't pick out the buttress and route clearly from there but decided to drive to the first turnout west on Hwy 2 and hope that was right. It was. We hiked up the loose crap with rock and spotted a couple of bolts - Ain't Misbehavin's start. We went uphill and to the right a short distance, geared up and headed up. Cary led the first pitch. It was very fun, but meandered a bit (were we off route?) with mostly good pro, but spotty in places. Lots of face climbing on 60 degree or more rock with some cracks mostly for pro. I lead the second pitch which was very easy. It had a lot of rope drag and wound around the rib of the buttress to a 2nd set of bolts and chains. The pro was very good. Cary led the final pitch which was probably the coolest and most fun. Very easy to follow. It was more of the same - 60+ degree face climbing with cracks. Pro was good. At the third set of bolts and chains we were not at the top of the buttress and wondered if there was a view at the top or why the route ended short of it. There was definitely some more of the same of what we had just climbed just above us. But the route description said three pitches and we were not feeling *that* adventurous. The first rap takes you about 2-3 feet above the 2nd set of chains. It's exactly 100 feet and a little bit disconcerting. The second and third rappels are also close to 100 feet, but don't come up short in this way at all. We ate lunch and chugged water. Mine was nice and warm with a tinge of Nalgene plastic taste. Great... We then decided to go up "Ain't Misbehavin'" for comparison with the first pitch of Ground Hog Day. We had to wait for about 50 minutes for a party that had just come up the trail. They were the only only folks on the route the whole day. I led the pitch. It was definitely a fun one with several bolts mixed with cracks for pro. We rapped down, headed for the cars and drove home in time for dinner. Oh, and the weather? Awesome! Sunny and warm, but there was a nice steady wind most of the day which kept us very comfortable and the rock was not hot at all. A great day in the Tumwater and we almost had the rock to ourselves. Sorry, no pics this time... Gear Notes: Mostly gear up to 2 inches. Nuts, hexes, tri-cams, cams up to C4 #2. Approach Notes: Steep climbers trail with loose dirt and rock.

No. Yea, the tweakers would stop stealing car parts from trail heads IF ONLY meth were legal.

linky

Avy danger on the Eastside is minimal - Tiger Mountain should be clear!

more proof that drugs are harmless and can be used recreationally.

Crevasse fall?? I don't know how to live through this hell, Woken up, I'm still locked in this shell, Frozen soul, frozen down to the core, Break the ice, I can't take anymore Freezing, Can't move at all, Screaming, Can't hear my call, I am dying to live, Cry out, I'm trapped under ice Crystallized, as I lay here and rest, Eyes of glass stare directly at death, From deep sleep I have broken away, No one knows, no one hears what I say Freezing, Can't move at all, Screaming, Can't hear my call, I am dying to live, Cry out, I'm trapped under ice Scream from my soul, Fate, mystified, Hell, forever more No release from my cryonic state, What is this? I've been stricken by fate, Wrapped up tight, cannot move, can't break free, Hand of doom has a tight grip on me Freezing, Can't move at all, Screaming, Can't hear my call, I am dying to live, Cry out, I'm trapped under ice

Not a climbing song, per se, but close enough! Sunday morning 9 a.m. I saw fire in the sky I felt my heart pound in my chest I heard an eagle cry Now I'm alive I can breathe the air Feel the wind, smell the earth in the air I watch an eagle rise above the trees Project myself into what he sees Hey- Take me away Come on and fly me away Take me up so high Where eagles fly I often dream I sail through the sky I've always wished I could fly The simple life of a bird on the wing Oh Lord, I could sing Take me away Come on fly me away Lift me up so high Where eagles fly Oh yeah- I'm alive, I breathe the air Wash the earth from my face I catch a glimpse of another dream I turn, I look but there's no trace Take me away Come on, fly me away I wanna fly away Pick me up so high Where eagles fly Oh yeah- Eagles fly, oh, take me away Eagles fly, oh, take me away Come on, let's fly away where eagles fly Come on, fly away where eagles fly

he could apply for a solo permit now in advance, but plan to hook up with another team

wacky Canucks

sure - tomorrow afternoon should be perfect! maybe he could take kevbone

Good job Kirk! Way to power through the fog and doubt to make your objective!

let's hope it's late june. maybe this heat wave will give us some help