sean_beanntan

Great Photos, did you manage to climb Powderline on Battle Mountain while you were down there. Best climb in the Castle Crags area imo

When you get to the hogsback, you can check on the folks climbing the hill. If there is much sillyness ie long ropes with plenty of slack and no snow pickets, then you have the option to climb way left of the shrund and finish up the remainder of west crater rim using the old chute as a exit. Its a nice quieter climb that you will enjoy and you get to belay if necessary. Its bnot much steeper but with no boot pack, it will be plenty of french steps

Climb: Mt Hood-SUnshine Date of Climb: 7/4/2005 Trip Report: Camped at Lag Crags at 8000ft Sat thro Monday. We decided to hike the west morraine but a nicer route would be to approch the crags from the elliot glacier....either from the west or east morraine. Crevasses are starting to open but still easy route finding. Both ramps onto the Lag crags are good. Warm conditons with winds 5 thro 15mph. Even with relatively warm weather, we did get evap cooling so that crampons were used from camp. Good boot pack from camp to top of snowdome. Bergshrund 1 is still quite small and we climbed above it to the left of Anderson Rock via a ramp/snow step system. Pockets are starting to open up but still a sweet option. Bergshrund 2 has two options. Snow conditons on the left of the horse shoe were like cork and super climbing. Great direct line to the Queens chair. There is a snow bridge half way along the traverse to Cathedral ridge that would make the return journey a little less spicy.

--> If you are not familiar with a route... top-rope it first! what??? ........i am glad most climbers dont feel this way or there would be no first accents. --> If your placements are suspect and your position is poor and someone is above... either have them lower a secured coil or rappell down to tie you into a secure system. ......once you give control to someone you lose focus and self control. half way is bullshit and gets you hurt. the lesson is try not to go off bad gear if possible. if a fall force will pull out the gear...willit take a simple climber load and lower off??? --> Wear a helmet! Feel free to offer your own safety reminders below.

i keep reading this self arrest shit when it comes to climbing. Ok so here is my take on self arrest "its ok to fall since i can self arrest...ok lets see, it will be a steep icy slope wearing a back pack and i have only practised on a soft snow near horizontal slope. how many people out there has arrested a fall on a steep icy 45-50 degree slope. SELF ARREST IS OVERATED. If you dont lose control, you wont need it. Focus on control not the lack of it and what you will do when you lose it. nuff said, hope you have a great climb but you sure cant teach effective self arrest in a day -J

wild things make one of the lightest bags sacs around. have had the bibler before and think that wild things is much better.

Climb: Anyone find Ice in the Columbia Gorge I84- Date of Climb: 1/15/2005 Trip Report:

...usually it takes years to rust...big negative on that one. i have had new screws rust and new crampons rust first time if they dont get dry soon...use Wd40 as the man says

Good ice on Hood, well Illumination Rock in March would be a possible sweet day out. Also look for the west side gullies below Hawkins cliff to offer some WI.

hi has anyone been on the Adams Glacier lately? looking at going this week. thanks,

NE Buttress Johannsburg NE Buttress Goode Early Morning Spire West Arete El Dorado Plumline, Castle Crags

Nice report, going in to climb it in a a week. Got a question, i climbed early morning spire so i know the approch. My thoughts are to base camp close to the east ridge but access the arete thro the inspiration col and drop down the slope between the needel and eldo. Any thought on this? Thanks

AMGA recommends using the belay loop..... hence the name. These guys are serious climbers with serious info. If it works for them, it works for me. ps for newbies AMGA is American Mountain Guides Assoc

Hmm maybe they were still asleep because there was little O2 left inside the cave, thoses type of leaders need to figure out how little they know

Simond Naja's, light, aggressive pick with small grip, great leash. In most cases they will climb ice mushhhhhhhhhh better then their owner. similar is the new anacondas........ nuff said

I am sellinga pair of NEW Freney XT size 43 if you are interested $180 plus shipping

Really like the Guides Siltarp 2, with velcro you can use as a bivy sack. But i am looking for something that is breathable and about the same size. Has anyone used this as a bivy sack(condensation?) or know of some other product? Thanks

The best advice that i got about Denali was "if you sleep warm at night you can handle any amount of cold, shit weather during the day. Hard to stay movtivated when you know that you are gonna freeze your butt off at night. Sure was true since i spent 7 days at 17K back in 98. I had a -40 Marmot Cym and would bring the same bag again.