scrambled_legs

It should be the same force required to stop the fall whether it's redirected or not. Equal opposite forces. The only time the forces change when using pullys is if one rope travels further than the other. For example if the followers rope is static and a movement of 1 foot of the rope on his end produces a 1 foot pull towards the redirect point, then there is no added forces. If you have it rigged like in a setup for easing crevasse rescue, than the forces will change. In a hanging belay the anchor is taking 100% of your weight plus any force exerted during a fall. If you're belaying directly from your harness or with an autoblock device, it is a static belay and 100% of the force will be absorbed by the anchor. If you redirect it, the belay will be slightly dynamic as the anchor isn't stopping you from moving upwards and some rope may slip through the redirect device as you travel upwards. In a standing belay stance, Your legs will absorb some of the fall if it is a downwards pull and will take some of the forces of the anchor.

Ok so I guess the books that I saw this in and the climbers doing it must be old school. Redirecting doesn't double the force on the anchor! Simple physics shows that by redirecting the pull to an upward pull rather than downward is simply just that a 1:1 pully with no added forces. The point that I was making was that you often see people redirecting by clipping a draw to only one of the anchor pieces. This puts 100% of the fall on one piece and completely negates the whole equalized anchor. The only added forces caused by redirecting is that wherever the rope is being redirected is where all the weight will be. If you belay directly from your harness, your stance will take some of the weight of the fall along with the anchor, unless its a hanging belay. Thanks for clearing that up. I was starting to wonder if this was standard practice as I've noticed it more and more now that I've been looking for it.

Just looking through belay anchors and have a question. A lot of instructions show a really bomber anchor all properly equalized and attatched directly to the harness. This makes sense to me but then I've seen a lot of people on rock or ice or whatever redirect the pull of the belay by clipping a draw through only one of the anchor points and rerouting the rope through the draw. Doesn't this ruin all the equalization made when setting up the belay. If the follower bails, all the weight is placed directly on the piece that the draw is clipped to. None of the other equalized pieces take the weight. You have to either take the fall on the harness or the tie in point of the equalized pieces in order to have an equalized belay no? I've seen some people place one screw or cam, seperate from the anchor and redirect the rope through that placement. This way if the follower bails the single piece may fail but won't compromise the equalized anchor. Any of this making sense to anyone else or any comments?

Does the ghost river freeze allowing a walk up to the climbs or do you have to drive? How far of an approach would it be to This house of Sky on foot?

Just wondering if there is an actual guidebook out there or if there's a better website than the one found on the links post. The approach descriptions are too vague for the non-locals. Where's Greeley?? Does anyone know of anything that's in out there and how to get to it?

Does anyone know what O J looks like right now? Please don't say black and running free.

Grotto is pretty ugly right now. The main falls is basically ice covered water and his and hers are really wet. You might be better off going to a seep unless the temperature changes. The Water Hole was excellent and the best casual climb that I've seen so far. Both seeps are in fat and dry. It's a short walk in and right near Canmore. The Junkyards are ugly too and usually packed with people regardless of the conditions.

How many screws and what size do you take for an average ice climb? I'm planning on going with 5 - 16cm and 2 - 22cm right now. Also how do you rack these properly? I've just been using a couple of biners but have been looking at buying either the BD or Petzl screw clippers. Any preferences and how many screws per clip etc. Sorry for all the newbie questions... I promise they'll stop soon.

Just getting into ice climbing and had a friend tell me that you should always practice planting your feet with your heels lower than your toes. In most of the instruction books I've read it says to never relax your ankles and drop your heels, or your crampon will pivot out. Which is it? Also, can you recommend some good one pitch WI3 or easy straight forward routes that are in, close to Calgary? Thanks

Yes, once again looking for some more East Coast beta. It's official I am going to Toronto but before I move out of Cornwall I want to hit Rumney. Anyone climb there and what would you suggest? Looks like a lot of stiff sport routes, should be fun. The beta on the Daks and the Gunks was awesome, it worked out perfect. I couldn't believe how many quality climbs we were able to to hit in the Gunks. Direct Erect is insane. I've never seen so many easy routes with wild roofs. Cheers to all you Eastcoaster's making this Westcoaster feel at home. I'll have to buy you all a if I ever run into any of you.

Just found out that I'm going to be getting posted to either Toronto or Winnipeg area... anybody got any info on climbing in those areas? If you were moving where would you go?? I know that most of you would probably avoid both areas like the plague and if I could I would too. I can't believe I was complaining about Vancouver winters a few months ago. Any info is appreciated!!!

Well I got so much good info on the daks that I thought I should see what the most suggested 5.8-5.11 climbs are in the gunks. One catch though, I'm leaving in 5 hours. Thanks for the help.

Awesome... thanks for the input. How about some weekend alpine routes. Are there any good ridge runs or scramble-climbs out here. Man, you give a guy an inch and he wants a mile. I can`t believe that amount of input that this forum will give a guy 4,900km from its base.

Just wondering if anyone has some good info on climbing areas around Cornwall (1 hour south of Ottawa and 1 hour west of Montreal). I think I hit the middle of the flat lands but hear that there is some pretty good climbing an hour south near lake placid. Anyone have any specific info on routes trad 5.8 and bolted 5.10. Any suggestions any other area`s worth checking out. I have the Adirondacks guide book, but it looks really old school and I think its going to be a challenge to find the routes. Anyone know of a climbing board for that area... or a web page. Thanks for the insight.

Check out Taiga in Vancouver!!!

Please don't!!! this post is boring enough even with you jumping straight to the conclusions. First off I thought all accidents involved a collision. What are non-collision accidents??? sound freakin' deadly. Accidents not involving other vehicles are simply man's way of ensuring that God's survival of the fittest continues. If dude can't keep his car inbetween the lines and not rolling over, then take him off the road. I'm all for high injury rates in rollovers Just one question that you might want to research in your thought depriving thesis. How many non-auto collision accidents occur in SUV's from negligent driving vs. accidents in cars? And how many non-auto collision accidents occur in SUV's from bad weather conditions vs cars? Also, from the results of those involved in these accidents. How long have the people involved in SUV accidents been driving SUV's? How long have the people involved in sedan accidents been driving sedans? That's like all the austin mini drivers changing to driving rigs. All of a sudden a rig will be the most dangerous vehicle on the road. Studies will come out proving conclusivly how dangerous it is to be driving a rig. Just wait until the retards learn the difference in handling and they'll cope just fine... well maybe not buddies wife. Dude hide the keys!!! Statistics can say anything you want them to say.

Sounds like a route guide for sleeping bags.

no... no... not really. I'm quite disturbed. Please stop going any further than it alreay has.

Classic!!!

Hey Wdietsch, do you really eat your thong after a full day of climbing??? Thats soo wrong on soo many levels.

That's got to be the most wasted amount of energy for the shortest joke. It's priceless how the server is "too busy" to process any purchases.

Nothing like farhting in your sleeping bag all night and then... eating it.

Do they only call the California Roll (sleeping pad) the Fruit Roll-up in San Fran??

Just trying to stop the drip, or do you not have that problem. You can tip it or tap it or smack it against the wall but when you put it back in your pants, the last drop is sure to fall.

This is simply not true and you know it. Toilet paper can be recognizable as such for up to two years even in the wettests of forests. Either burn it, bury it, or pack it out, but don't leave it lying around for me to look at. Wow you guys are hardcore!! Do you really pack it out??? I can see burning the urinated paper but the ass wipe?? That is foul, I mean it smells bad enough when its not on fire, I can only imagine. Am I the only one on here that just buries it and doesn't feel bad? How are the other climbers supposed to know what territory is yours if you remove all your scents???