gmknight

That is a good one to keep in mind. Might need to use it next time I'm on a trade route.

Hey Mike, nice work with the blog. There can never be too many climbing blogs out there. I wouldnt make it through the work week without them.

Nice job. Unfortunately I have yet to do it myself, but the word on the street is that late spring is the time to do it if you want to find some ice. Generally by fall the route is melted out.

Lots of folks are carrying tons of sh@!. Most of the gear on that list are just for convenience. Climbers should learn how to adapt the gear they have to meet the situational needs. For example, when I rumble with knife wielding cc.comers, I clip my largest camalot to a runner and use it like a mace and I use my nut tool for close in fighting.

If you are climbing at your limit after watching your pro slide down the rope, then I would guess you qualify. I have only pushed my limits in a runout a few times, and then it is because I am scared of downclimbing and scared of being a wuss.

I want to climb and my wife wants to visit the Olympics. I dont know sh!t about climbing there and would gladly take advise for snow stuff or rock routes. Must be day trip friendly though.

Climb: Cutthroat Peak-South But. Date of Climb: 6/26/2004 Trip Report: My buddy John flew up from Cali and I made the mistake of suggesting Cutthroat. We approached in a nasty thunderstorm and scrambled up the right hand gully. Set up the rap then waited in a patch of sun to dry out and assess the weather. After about ten minutes we gave the green light and got started. It became appearent on the first ten feet that the rock quality blows. The route went smoothly but the rock was bad and climbing poor. It rained a little on the 4th pitch but the thunder and lightning let up so the was risk was low. Tagged one of the lower summits and GTFO down the descent gully. Cant recommend this route. Gear Notes: Gear to 2.5" Nelson suggests a large hex but we didnt use anything bigger than a #2 camalot. The crux (last pitch) looks runout but there are small gear options and a fixed pin. Approach Notes: Bring a log

Sorry about the thread wander but I am also somewhat puzzled over this obsession with rappelling. I used to climb at Sespe Wall in SoCal, has a nice simple downclimb right next to the two pitch routes but someone decided it would be a good idea to drill some rap rings onto the route. weird.

never mind. just read a post by Colin stating that the rock is far to loose to be good in the summer. thanks anyhow.

Anybody know something about NYG on Snoqualmie in summer conditions? How is the rock quality in that area?

Hey Dru, dont forget about the Lowe Bolo. Those are coolest things on my rack.

good point will. i am sure sport climbing could be considered progression by some but that is questionable. I think it is interesting that you vote for the bird though. He is definitely one of the most prolific hard men but i doubt that american climbing would be in a different place had he never decided to tie in. I do agree that many of the people we are nominating would place a vote for Mugs Stump. He quietly revolutionized the way modern alpinists climb big mountains.

I am totalling kicking myself for not thinking of Muir. Well done!!

Everyone has a favorite old fart that they think has done the most for american climbing. I am thinking Yvon Chounard but there are plenty of possibilities: John Gill, John Salathe, etc. Lets here yours and why.

good on ya

Sorry Muffy, but climbing groupies are pitiful. I enjoy hearing some tall tales but i am sure you would be selling yourself short trying to emulate Largo.

There are definitely bad slideshow floating around (Steve Schneider is one) but after seeing a few Greg Crouch shows i know that there is a saving grace. One of my favorite quotes: Norman Clyde fell while soloing one of the palisade gullies. As he slid at a break-neck pace toward the berg. he launched into the air and yelled "Here I go to HELL!!!"

Good climbing conditions + lots of fresh snow = weekend of rock climbing

Good stuff Mark. Snowshoes are also a hell of a lot lighter when you it comes time to carry them. How were the snow/crevasse conditions above the ledges? Did you get a look at Gib chute? I have aspirations for that before to long.

tele nut is on the right track. the best way to not get shot is to shoot first. there are some companies that make really light firearms suitable for alpine climbing gang fights.

That is f** beautiful! Anybody been on the east face of three fingers?

I havent been there yet but making some plans and want to know more about multi pitch stuff in the area. My only applicable guide, WA Rock, is no help here.

as much as i love the snow slogs what i am really looking for are mid to long routes with 50 to 80 degree ice and a little rock wouldnt hurt either.

I am new to the NW and accustomed to sierra nevada styl climbing (ie. sunny and car to car). what are some good winter routes for me to get acclimatised on?