jpark42

I say no the Via Ferreta because that will bring more people to the park.

I am looking to go check out Alpental and see what is in. Anyone interested?

Or you can just bug me for mine...Dan E. I have found from using the Cobra's that they are amazingly strong and light weight. The carbon fiber also does an amazing job of deadening the blows you make. As for the hammer, I find the hammer on most alpine and ice tools to be kind of worthless, to small. I find the best rule of thumb is to flip the tool and use the top of the tool to pound in pickets and use the hammer only for clearing ice.

We were up there sunday and it wasn't in

I heard about you guys when I was down there this season. We ended up trying the route in early July, I think your group and ours where the only attempts on it, but got turned back when got to the snow ramp to access the ridge and found a 40ft section had melted out and was now rock. Also cutting across the face to gain the summit wouldn't have worked when we were there because it had melted out as well.

I just heard about about this. I didn't know Ryan well but from the times I did climb with him, his glee for climbing and positive attitude was contagious and he will be sorely missed. My condolences go out to his family and his close friends

Lets first set the record straight. ReviveX, Nikwax, etc... don't restore water proofness. What they do is restore the DWR, durable water repellent coating that is on the spell fabric, probably nylon, so the fabric doesn't get soaked. This being said the one of the best things you can do to restore the DWR coating, depending on the age of the garment, is to put it in the drier. The heat helps reactive and spread out the DWR. Another thing you can do is iron your garment using the nylon setting on your iron. Don't believe here is gore tex website. They will tell you the same thing I just did. http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite/home

Yeah we saw you guys up there. Glad to see you guys made it. Your bivy site was much cooler then ours was but it sounds like you might have traded. We summit a couple of hours after you. Just curious did you guys stick to the ridge or did you do the snow traverse?

PS: If you were up there this weekend there is a good possibility we may have seen you while we were doing it.

Thanks for the update but a little late. We went and found out the old fashion way what the snow conditions looked liked. And I agree with Abe, Bruce, if you take the left gully you shouldn't have problems getting to the notch.

Looking for some one that has been up there recently and knows what the snow conditions are like on the Torment section

I actually work at a shop and there is no way that REI would sell used climbing gear. The problem with climbing gear is the second it walks out the door REI has no clue what has happened to the gear. If that individual ended up hurting themselves and it came to light that they sold a used helmet they would be looking at a huge lawsuit

Scratch that I have already found a partner for those dates. I am still looking for an partner to do alpine and steep ice/snow during the week, no glacier slogs unless there is a couple of pitch of sweet sweet candy(read:rock/ice) waiting at the end. I can lead up 5.10, though I am a little rusty right now cause I have been focusing more on ice/snow stuff, and I tend to have three days off in a row during the week so I am willing to get back into the backcountry a little further. Let me know if you are interested

My hope is due a route on Rainier, Kautz Glacier route sounds good, but I am open to suggestions for these three days

Where are you based out of? Can you do midweek stuff?

I have heard different reports, depending on the year, but the basic idea is that it is do able later in the season.

Or an icy wonderland

I am looking to do Liberty Ridge July 21-23. I just got back from Peru and I want to use my new found lung capacity

Partner was unable to retrieve purple camalot on high upper portion of Ice Cliff Glacier route. It is on the left side of the couloir in the last protected spot before you have to break out right and ascend underneath that giant fucking cornice. If found I would really like to get it back.

Code Red has been aborted. I have found a partner so I am good to go

So my partner just bailed on me so I am looking for a new one to do something Wedsday, Thursday, and Friday. My hope is to Ice Cliff Glacier on Mt. Stuart but I just want to get out so I am up for anything. if you are interested shoot me a line at 406-270-3157

I am planning on doing the Kautz glacier route Rainier in mid-june to brush up on my glacier and ice climbing skills before I go to Peru and I am looking for partners. A little about me: I have experience with glacier travel and steep snow and ice climbing, up to 60-70degrees. I don't want to babysit anyone so if you respond please have a working knowledge of glacier travel. If you are interested shoot me an e-mail

What route do you want to do? How much experience do you have?

I going to Peru from June 25th-July 15th and have yet to find a partner. I am looking to do Pisco, Yanapaccha, and Chopicalqui for a warm-up and to acclimatize and then do the West Face of Tocllaraju for my big climb. Depending on the circumstances and how much time I have left I also want to hit up La Esfinge Original Route. I am down for finding some one down there but it would be awesome if I could find some one in this area I could meet and climb with a little and meet down there with some of the same goals. If you are interested let me know and we can talk

Rule#101: If you have problems with people doing the above things you should probably think about doing a route not named the Emmouns or DC