jpark42

Where are you based out of? Can you do midweek stuff?

I have heard different reports, depending on the year, but the basic idea is that it is do able later in the season.

Or an icy wonderland

I am looking to do Liberty Ridge July 21-23. I just got back from Peru and I want to use my new found lung capacity

Partner was unable to retrieve purple camalot on high upper portion of Ice Cliff Glacier route. It is on the left side of the couloir in the last protected spot before you have to break out right and ascend underneath that giant fucking cornice. If found I would really like to get it back.

Code Red has been aborted. I have found a partner so I am good to go

So my partner just bailed on me so I am looking for a new one to do something Wedsday, Thursday, and Friday. My hope is to Ice Cliff Glacier on Mt. Stuart but I just want to get out so I am up for anything. if you are interested shoot me a line at 406-270-3157

I am planning on doing the Kautz glacier route Rainier in mid-june to brush up on my glacier and ice climbing skills before I go to Peru and I am looking for partners. A little about me: I have experience with glacier travel and steep snow and ice climbing, up to 60-70degrees. I don't want to babysit anyone so if you respond please have a working knowledge of glacier travel. If you are interested shoot me an e-mail

What route do you want to do? How much experience do you have?

I going to Peru from June 25th-July 15th and have yet to find a partner. I am looking to do Pisco, Yanapaccha, and Chopicalqui for a warm-up and to acclimatize and then do the West Face of Tocllaraju for my big climb. Depending on the circumstances and how much time I have left I also want to hit up La Esfinge Original Route. I am down for finding some one down there but it would be awesome if I could find some one in this area I could meet and climb with a little and meet down there with some of the same goals. If you are interested let me know and we can talk

Rule#101: If you have problems with people doing the above things you should probably think about doing a route not named the Emmouns or DC

I am heading down to Peru June 25th-July15th and I am looking for partners. I am looking to acclimatize for the first week on Pisco, Yanapacche, and Copia and after that take a look at the west face of Tocllaraja. Other then the first three my schedule is open and I am totally flexable for just about anything. I can lead moderate ice up 70-80 degree but I am more then comfortable following on harder stuff if need be.

Me and my partner did it on last Sat and the snow on the couloir is extremely deep and the ice was looking pretty thin on the first pitch and 3rd pitch of the runnels

I am not familiar with Jaberwocky Tower so I cannot say what the conditions look like. As for pictures, my partner took all the pics so I am waiting to hear back from him. As soon as I get the pictures I will go a head and post them.

Me and my partner did TC on Sat and the ice conditions were a little thin. That being said there is a ton of short ice climbs that are in around Colchuck, in fact thats what we were planning on doing if TC didn't work out. As for the snow conditions, I would avoid most the routes on the North face unless you want to slog your way up waste deep powder in the couloir. It was super deep in spots when we were up there but a lot of snow was been blown into the couloirs on the north face when we there.

I am heading to Peru June 25th-July15th and I am looking for partners. My hope is to acclimatize for about a week and then I want to do some bigger stuff. If you are interested shoot me an e-mail and we can talk

I might be interested I have April 24-26 off and I can probably get the 27th. Let me know if you guys are still looking for partners and we can talk about logistics

So it sounds like I am good to go as far as my Mammot Dynaame slings go but I might want to look into retiring my nylon runners and resling my cams. Thanks for feedback

None as far as I could tell.

PS: it is actually spelled Mowich and here is a cool picture from my trip.

That is true but considering that I every single one of my cams would have to be done, at $5 a pop, and all my nylon runners are the really exspensive Mammot Dynmma runners I want to get peoples opinion on whether or I need to replace them.

So my climbing gear was wet and left in a water tight bag for about three weeks, why this happened is a long story one I am not prepared to explain. Needless to say that my gear wasn't to happy when I finally took it out. When I took out the gear most of biners and cams had a white powdery substance on it, a type of rust I think. I think the metal gear will be ok with a little cleaning but I am curious if this substance will have any adverse effects on my slings and whether or not I should retire all my runners and buy new ones.

The middle section would be cool to ski but the upper section I think stays really icy all year because it is pretty step and doesn't see a whole lot of sun. If you wanted to do a ski descent from this side I think you would find the Edmonds Headwall route and better ski down. But since I haven't been on this route I wouldn't be able to tell you with a 100% certainty

My friend took a few photos that I will post as soon as I get the chance. Unfortunately, this route doesn't lend itself to taking a lot of photos because of the commitment level and steepness of the route.

A partner and I did the Central Mowich face on Rainer and boy were we in for a ride. We started from Mowish Lake and planned on doing a carry over. This is the suggested route and after checking out the area/route I can see why. Rather then try and thumb our way back my partner and I rented a car and parked it in the climbing parking lot at the White River camp ground. We camped over night on the 7/25 at Mowish Lake camp ground and started bright but not early on the 26th. The approach is pretty chill until you have to drop on to the Mowish Glacier. You take the Spray Ridge trail which is well marked and the cut off for the glacier is fairly well marked and the route finding is fairly straight forward. As soon as you have to drop onto the glacier is where the fun begins. To get to the Mowish Glacier you have to drop about 1000ft "scrambling" down really shitty rock. I suggest for anyone attempting that they do this early and get it over with because further up the ridge it starts to cliff in spots making getting down even more of a pain in the ass. As soon as you get on the glacier route finding was extremely tricky because of open crevasse's. The guide book we used suggests that you cruise straight up the Mowish Glacier to get to high camp. This is the route we took and the route finding was a huge pain and it tooks us a long time to get to the first high camp at 8400ft. I don't know why the guide suggests using this route because from high camp we could see a much more straight forward and easier approach to high camp. When you first get onto the glacier you will see a huge compression zone with a rock face on climber right before the terminus. If you cruise down to this rock band you can access the right side of the rock ridge. From that point it is a simple cruise up snow fields and talus slopes to high camp. This seems much easier then route finding through the heavely crevassed glacier. But I digress. The high camps at 8400 was super sweet and had plenty of places to set-up tents or bivies. The nice thing this high camps is there was running water so we didn't have to melt any snow. This high camp also gives you a decent view of the Central Mowish Face so you can preview your route. We started out early but not bright on the mornning of the 7/27. We crossed the shrund at about 10400ft by scrambling up so "rock" and traversing over to the snow slopes. From there we cruised up 40-55 degree snow and ice slopes until we reached 12700ft. We wanted to do the standard grade III route that accesses the rock ledges left but unfortunately the access gully was rock instead of ice so we did the right grade IV variation. The variation is a blast adding three pitches of 50-70 degree alpine ice to the route as well as a 1000ft of 60 degree hard pack snow to access the liberty cap glacier. We got to the top of liberty cap glacier around 4pm and started the slog to our next campsite at the summit crater. Finally we woke up at late on the 28th and started our decent down the Emmoons Glacier route and arrive back at the car around 530pm. Overall this was an amazing route and lots of fun. Though we didn't get to do our intended route the area offers plenty of options from which to choose from a couple things to keep in mind if you decide to do this route. 1)When you get to the Mowish Glacier quickly get to the right side of the ridge using the above directions. It will save you a lot of time and effort. 2)Bring guides for a couple of different routes in the area. The nice thing about this route is that you can access the Mowish Face, Sunshine ridge, Central Mowish Face, and the Edmunds Face route from this high camp. It also gives you a good vantage point so you can check out the different routes and see whats in. 3)The first 1000ft has a ton of rock fall so I suggest moving through this section quickly also if it is a windy day be prepared to be peppered with small rocks and small chunks of snow/ice beening blown off from the top of libery glacier while you are climbing the face. 4) Whats nice about this route is after the first 1000ft rock fall isn't as much of an issue, except for the above issue, and since the route faces NW the route doesn't get sun until very late in the, around 2pm, which means that you can take your time and enjoy the view if you like. 5) Finally, I suggest camping in the summit crater because carrying over the Emmoons on the same day would be an extremly long day and seeing the looks on the guided clients faces when you wake up as they are summitting is priceless.